CNY_Dave

Actually the tc was just turning with the crank because the TC has so little drag, the TC turns easily through the starter hole.

The mid-pipe bolts were replaced with big springs a long time ago. Most of the header studs just threaded right out of the head, 2 threaded off the studs. 2 of the torque converter bolts would have broken my 1/4-drive ratchet, I always have that happen so I grabbed the blue wrench and bent a 3/8ths extension into a U. If that didn't work I would have brazed a socket to a bar. The ideal tool I think would be a socket-end wrench where the socket end pivots, I have a 1/2 inch and a 9/16ths but no metric. I used the U extension to break them loose, then I used that spline-drive that has a big external hex on the end to turn them until they were finger-tight. That turned out to be a lot easier than the 1/4 ratchet. The big hex end fits a 13mm box wrench so I put a bolt into the socket and bolted the wrench to the end of the socket. I threaded a long skinny mag pickup tool under the manifold from the side and stuck it to the bolt after it was finger-tight so I couldn't drop the bolt, was very helpful, but that trick won't work to get them started. Is it helpful to back the converter out of the flex-plate? All the bolts are out but the converter still turns with the engine, presumably the center end of the converter is stuck tight into what on a manual would be the pilot bushing. I am not looking forwards to starting and then tightening those bolts.

Geez, I'm tired, just holding off getting sick with a bug, I think. Well, I have the fluids drained and the exhaust off, and the airbox on the throttle body off.

I think the external H6 filter is just mesh, not sure. It's 37 bucks, though! I can't tell yet where the diff fluid came out, looks like it might have been the filler but the dipstick was in place. There was still diff fluid in it, and there were fresh filings on the plug.

Yah, it's front diff gear lube.

On the way home last night I thought I may have smelled gear lube. Pulled the car in the garage last night, am starting the trans swap. There's oil under the car. I'm goin' in.

I know ultra-grey is the go-to equiv for fuji-bond, the sealant for the oil pan. On my H6 the pan gasket is under the full depth of the oil, I replaced my pan recently using the UG and so far so good...

The directed auto-focus on the iphones is pretty cool, you tap on the display where you want the camera to focus. Getting the lighting right was harder than the focus.

It could be something silly, also. It might only move just the right way for something to make contact in 2nd, or vibrate just the right way only in 2nd. The fact it only makes noise WFO is a hopeful sign.

These are the things you wreck if you don't seat the converter! Wanted to ensure they were in good shape on my replacement trans.

I haven't checked the front diff leavings yet- the boneyard drained both, but there's always some left.

Inside looks more promising. I scraped the goop on the magnet to one spot on it, and the pan has no goop in the bottom of it.

Pan's not off yet, smells the same as fresh but less strong, so at least it doesn't smell burnt...

Front or rear diff would make noise in all gears. I'm an expert on front pinion noise at this point check out the pinion noise vids I have on youtube at CNY1RC.

It's pretty dark

Well, obviously then the solenoids must total to about 100 lbs...

Just 180? Crap, I was feeling like a man among men until you posted that.

I really need to make this an in-and-out job, I just want to be prepared for all contingencies. If I can get the trans ready to slide in before I even take the old one out, that's preferable.

The dealer 'should' have a new snap ring, and TC seal, and driveshaft seal, and filters by Friday, when I'll need them. I didn't see any kind of a seal inside the TC, or inside the trans, other than the seal for the converter itself, but that doesn't mean it's not there. When you get the TC seated can you feel the drag of the pump when you turn the TC?

TC was removed (I have another thread on the issue this presents in my case), lifting the trans out and onto the trans-jack at max height was fairly easy, lifting it onto my high bench took a little lift, get-corner-on, pivot type action.

OK, I have my boneyard trans, they pulled the torque converter and so I looked at how to put it back in. It looks like you slide the tube that drives the pump all the way off and out, then insert that into the torque converter, get the snap ring settled into place, then slide the whole kit-n-kaboodle into the trans. Looks like they munged the snap-ring, though, is that common or indicative of a heavy-handed disassembly? Should I get a new ring or straighten it? Is the snap ring really required? I don't want to get this thing in and then find out they broke the pump- any way to feel for it being 'right' after getting the TC back in? Pics...

External one is just wire mesh, isn't it? Part of my decision will be based on what the fluid coming out looks like.

Next best in driving distance was $930 for one with a few thou more. There were cheaper ones, but these were both 'A grade' condition rating.

I am wondering if it's worth bothering changing either trans filter (internal or external) if the fluid in my orig trans looks clean. I do know a slight dent in the incoming trans means the pickup might be blocked by the pan.

Trans is in the hatch, $860, 96k on it, out of a 2004 LL bean. Came with the converter and I asked them to leave the mounts on.