Ioku

Yep done that lots of times it burns off in the first mile I just do it to keep the hat and vents from rusting.

I really don't see the point in these heads, why spend all that time and money building custom DOHC heads for an outdated engine when you can just use an EJ block and have a variety of factory DOHC heads to chose from, I know it was for an aircraft where cost isn't of much concern but still why not start with the better EJ engine and work from there.

Hey I saw your car briefly at the rally, sounded good, did you stay for the whole thing or just the first few stages, we got there for around the middle part but left before the end.

I've seen those locking tube ends or whatever there called on some desert race trucks that have so much caging around the engine that without them you couldn't even get it out. But that bar I have on there is far enough back that getting the engine in wont be a problem. As for the spring rates, I'm not sure, the black spring is a stock ea82 rear spring and the blue one came with some coilover set that came on one of my Imprezas.

Good news everybody, I finally finished my crazy front suspension I've been working on. Custom Coilovers All installed with outback brakes Also braced and reinforced the strut towers On some temp wheels and tires till I get some 31's and something with more offset.

yeah it is a bit more work on a EJ car, but if you have some time you could still do it on a budget. for axles you can use one out of a FWD manual Impreza or Legacy, there 23 spline, and you can widen the holes on the fly wheel with a die-grinder. But even just going to 4.11's will be nice, or you could try and fined a JDM 4.44 trans but those are usually $$.

I noticed your going to use Suzuki axles, you think they will hold up to those massive tires and low gearing, I'd be worried about snapping axle shafts. And I'm liking your tube frame set up looking forward to seeing this one driving.

Yep, all EJ tranys will bolt up to all EJ engines there are differences in clutches but with a 98 rs trans it will be the same style of clutch. Just make sure you get the rear diff to match the trans. And if you get an adapter plate you could use a D/R trans out of a GL.

I don't know if foresters have bigger rear sways, but I know 95 to 99 outbacks have a 17 mil rear sway that will bolt right in and makes a nice noticeable improvement over the stock 13 mil bar.

I got some for about $25 on ebay, but I would install everything first and see if you even need them, in the rear Imprezas have alot of camber stock, too much IMO, and you can just crank the stock front camber bolt to full negative in the front and likely have enough. With the forester stuff on there I think you might end up with about .5 degree negative in the rear and about the same in the front.

99 outback is the newest you can use, in 00 they completely changed the rear suspention, the fronts will still fit but thats it.

Yeah I have know idea what the spring rates are on ether of the springs and I'd like to have a bit softer spring to replace the stock one, but they were free so I'll start with this and then work on fine tuning it after I have it running.

the upper black spring is just a stock ea82 rear spring and the blue spring is off some lowering set up that came on one of my Impreza's.

So I got one coilover built, I used Rancho RS5000's and bigo1966's fence post sleeving trick, is 2 and 3/8 inch fence post bty, and for the lower spring perch I used some 3/8 wall tube that happened to be a nice fit around the post material.

No, I still need to get some shocks, I think I'm just going to order some ranchos I've been looking through there catalog to find the right one with the right stroke and attachment points I need.

how is that any different than the stock rear shock, its really nothing more than a basic shock with a spring perch on it. Also I don't see whats sketchy or unsafe about my set up, between the tubing metal and hardware I'm using its likely 5 times stronger than the stock stuff. Just because we don't have Engineering degrees and aren't using computers and complicated math doesn't make it unsafe.

Yep I measured the travel at the point I plan to mount the shock and its just a little over 6 inches, So back to the pick and pull to get some shocks to play with.

So I clearanced out the upper pivot points so I could get more up travel out of it and I now have 10 inches of travel at the hub. here's a pic of drivers at full droop and pass a full compression. And this is the area thats limiting any more up travel still need to decide if I want to to anything about it.

Thanks for the vids, I was thinking up something like that too, sleeving a basic shock with something and wielding a lower spring perch to it. But how did it go welding to the shock any problems with it exploding or anything.

I know the angles are sort of weird but there is a reason for it, one being lack of space, in order to have the distance between the outer in inner pivot point be the same the pivot pints for the upper arm would have had to be in the frame or I would have to add 3 inches more lift and to put them under it. Also with the spacing equal like that the upper ball joint would be almost maxed out with the amount of droop in that pic. I would like the arms to be longer like the lowers but again theres no room with out starting to get in the way of the engine. And when I cycled through the travel the camber goes very negative at full compression and a little positive at full droop, I don't see it being a problem. Also with the upper arm like that the upper ball joint has plenty of pivot, at full droop the limiting factor is the inner tierod and at full compression the inner pivots hit the frame first, still need to cut some of it away to fix that.

Yeah thats the plan, going to make the lower coilover mount on top of the upper arms and the upper mount where the top of the strut would go, and yeah if I have to I'll just cut holes in the hood I think it would look bad rump roast to have to shocks come up though the hood. I need to look into some Fox coilovers, I just need to find some that are cheep enough, this is still more or less a budget build and I can't go spending 2k on coilovers.

Modded another set of knuckles, and got the upper arms built, now I need to find some shocks and a way to build the coilovers.

Still working on the uppers, been busy with work and had to order more heim joints, and make a trip to the pick and pull. I'm starting over on the front knuckles and building them from the start to use a heim as the upper ball joint. And I still need to find some shocks to put the spring stack over and find a way the weld spring perches to them with out it exploding.

I was thinking of doing something like that just to get the tie rods up higher and less likely to be hit by rocks, nice to know it helps with bump steer too. But I was worried about the hole being too big after reaming it out, you said you added washers, what type were they and were did you put them.

So this is what I'm thinking for the spings front and rear. Using a rear spring stacked with these shorter stiffer coils, they were part of some lowering springs that came on one of my Impreza's I didn't want it low so I put in some WRX springs. I plan to put these over a shock and make a coilover, the total height of the stack is 20 in.