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I'd like to get in on this adapter plate group buy, so all I do is just place an order on your site and put my order # here and I'll get the reduced pricing?

I've had that same blue set on my Impreza for almost 3 years now and there still doing fine, tight and no noise I have noticed.

So I'm also trying to find the body wiring for a 88 GL I've checked suberdave's docs but GL FSM is missing section 6-2 body wireing the one I need.

I know this is an older post but wanted to clear up some misinformation in case others find it. EJ18 Bore 92mm Stroke 67mm, this is wrong, the bore is 87.9 mm and the stroke is 75mm EJ22 Bore 96.9 Stroke 79mm, the bore is right but the stroke is 75mm EJ25 Bore 99.6 Stroke 79mm, this one is correct.

Ive welded stainless with regular steel wire before and it worked fine, might not be the best, but for somthing nonstructual like that brush guard you should be ok

I was planing on using upper ball joints off a toyota because there the load bearing joint on a toyota, but they didn't have enough range of motion to them. so I used the heim joints, there rated to over 28,000 pounds but I dont know if thats side load or not I'll just have to see how they work and try something else if don't.

Thanks, it been a lot of work but should be worth it in the end, and yeah being here in central OR with the higher elevation dry air and no salt in the winter means very little rust. I always feel bad when I hear how on the east cost an EA82 is a rare thing to see, around here I still see a few ea71's driving around. I have some plans for longitudinal bracing, if I can ever afford or get access to a tubing bender I'd love to do some caging to it.

So I've been able to get some more work done over the last couple weekends, I got the new rear shock mounts finished and boxed in. I also went to the pick and up and got the whole Ebrake set up off a Legacy and mounted that up to the wagon, so I now have a rear ebrake ready for some dirt driften. And then finished putting the rest of the rear brakes together. Its legacy Turbo vented rear rotors and wider calipers, I've had the rotors sittin around for the last 3 years got them form a friend for helping with a disk brake swap, but couldn't find any calipers for a good price. But I got lucky at the pick and pull a few months ago and found some, funny thing is they weren't even on a turbo legacy, it was just a L model first gen legacy and it still had the thinner solid rotors on it, it was odd but I'm happy to have found some for only $30. I've also started breaking down one of the EJ25's I have, I have 2, and both were non running but I got one for $20 and the other I traded a steering rack for so hope to be able to put them together to make one good engine. I'll get some pics of the damage up in a bit

It might have been easyer to have more body lift if I had planned for it from the start, but because of the fact that I am doing a full custom suspension and everything is built around my planed lift I would have to redesign a lot of it to do that. I know what you mean about a reliable winch but I figure its better than nothing and I have heard the badlands ones aren’t bad for a cheep winch

I got a few updates, Got the rear coilovers built ended up having to cut out the stock coil mounts because the new ones are so much longer and started building new mounts. I also picked up a 5000 pound Badlands winch a HF when they went on sale for $140 will be going on once I build my bumper.

In high range it would be geared higher then you have now, first gen legacys had a 4.11 final drive, execpt the turbos. It will be fine for highway driving

Id say sti axles would be strongest there the biggest ones I've seen on a subaru. But I know to use the rears you need to use the R180 diff and the sti rear hubs, and the fronts you may have to use with a 6 speed but I think I saw some were someone used them with a 5 speed

Yep that's exactly what it is but I also had to use the gen 3 Legacy axles because they have a different spline count at the outer CV end.

It wouldn't surprise me to get the same travel out of the stock rear suspension but with this set up I was able to keep the crossmember at stock height, a little better clearance, and not have the arms end up at almost a 90 degree angle at full droop. I'm sure I could get 18 if not 24 inches of travel out of this set up if it wasn't for the limits of the axles.

He speaks the truth I've work on everything from a Civic to a Peterbilt but started with Subaru's, and looking back all the things I thought were difficult on my Subaru now seem about as hard as changing oil compared to doing that same job on another vehicle, hell even changing the oil on a Subaru is easier than most cars.

Been awhile sense a update, but been busy with work, helping friends with there projects, and all the holiday crap, But finally got a chance to make some progress on the rear suspension. Got the new longer and stronger arms built, now I need to built another set of coilovers. And looks like I can get about 12 inches of travel out of the rear.

If that LSD unit is a factory subi one with the stub shafts you can just use rear axles out of a first gen Legacy, I did that in my Impreza.

I gathered he was asking about the LSD, meaning what would you sell it for, I too am interested so I'll ask, if you were to sell the LSD what would you want for it.

I'm going to build another set like I have in the front.

Got some work done on the rear suspension, Built a new rear crossmember thats moved forward about 4 inches so the control arms can be longer. also built a new rear diff mount to accommodate the 3 inch diff drop Next mocking up and building the rear arms. Also messed around with some ideas for a paint job.

Then your going to have to drop your crossmembers, if you don't what to buy a lift then get some metal and build one.

that rubber thing that goes in the spring perch isn't that important ive throne them out before because they always fall apart, this just to help with noise but even with out them I've never noticed any more noise. and as for spacers I think the most you can run is 5mm before you need longer studs.

the easyest thing to do would be to go to the pick and pull and get the struts and body lift off a outback legacy and maybe make some simple one inch spacers to add to the struts, that should get you around a 3 inch lift.

The way guys fit bigger tires is you gotta cut more, go to harbor freight pick up one of there $20 grinders and cut up your fenders.

I know you didn't say Imprezas but mine dose have a push bar and a bit of lift around 1 or 2 inch lift on 225 60 16's Push bar, roof rack, lights custom built coilovers full built suspension, turbo, lsd, too much to list.