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I just got rid of those plates on mine to make the scoop and vents functional rain getting in wont hurt anything hell I regularly spray off my engine with degreaser and a hose to keep things clean, water on your engine isn't a problem like people think it is, you just don't want water in your engine and if you have the stock air box that wont happen.

I got a set of front struts with springs off an 78 brat PM me if you still need some.

Sounds like the shop messed up. like was already said there is a arrow on the strut mount this should be lined up with bracket on the bottom of the strut, if its too far out and you try a forcibly rotate the strut with out taking tention off the spring you can end up dislodging the spring off the perch, I know this from experience.

I dont have a diagram for the eval hoses but I will say that on my 98 I just ditched that charcoal canister but left all the sensors and solenoids pluged in and have never goten any codes. I got rid of it because I figured I would just smash it hanging back there

Red line will be the same, cluster doesn't determine red line anyways this done though the ecu. Doing the swap should be fine as long as the connectors are the same between the clusters I just did the same on my inpreza brighton

So I swaped a D/R ea82 trans into my 98 Impreza a few months back so everything has been working fine except I keep getting I check engine light and when I pull the codes I get a p1101 and p1507 I looked them up and both are Neutral position switch codes, this make sense seeing as I no longer have a nuetral position switch because there is nowhere to install one on the older D/R trans. This wouldn't be much of a problem if it wasnt for the fact the every once in a while when the codes come up the car goes into this limp mode where the ECU starts cutting injectors to protect the engine causeing it to have no power and run like crap. So I'm just wondering if anyone else has had this problem after this swap and if there is a way to fix it. I'm about ready to put a EJ trans back in the car because of this.

If you get outback or forester stuts you can fit a 215 75 15 tire, id recommend some general grabbers in that size a friend of mine has them on his outback and they fit fine and work great

Love this car I've been whatching your progress on here as its evolved into what it is now, your car and Stella are what inspired me to go with an Impreza wagon for my new build, I still need to start a build thread. I had a question for you on the DR trans swap I'm doing the same with my impreza and have the trans bolted up to the engine and modded trans crossmember in but the stock drive shaft is about 4 inches too short, I noticed you said you used a Legacy drive shaft and it fit other than the flanges. Do you know what year it came from or if it was out of a auto or manual car, I think they are different lenghts, this would be a big help so I know what to grab at the pull a part.

Good fine on the Brat looks like a decently strait body to work with should turn out nice. I noticed your in Bend, same as me, thought you might like to know last time I was at Brads Upull it in Redmond I saw a 79 Brat out there still mostly complete this was a month or 2 ago so it may not be there anymore but I would take I look might some good parts, I think it even had the dealer installed A/C.

That was great yet another reason to love Reagan. and funny that he dosen't get that Brat's really have a real 4wd and not AWD.

So are you going to switch to a duel A arm suspention? I had been thinking of trying to use the toyota hubs too but wasn't sure what to do about the axles other than trying to make custom ones.

Why do you have a spark plug and oil presure sensor in your intake? Is it for some sort of 5th injector set up?

In my search for longer struts I came across a posible option useing volvo 240 strut inserts, they have 8.25 inches of travel, my plan is to use them in a EJ front strut housing. They are 44.5mm around but I still need to open up a subaru strut and see if they will fit.

there seems to be a few make of ebay latteral links I have this set http://www.ebay.com/itm/Subaru-Impreza-WRX-Sti-95-07-Rear-Lateral-Link-Control-Arms-Blue-/230951779354?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Make%3ASubaru&hash=item35c5cc7c1a&vxp=mtr with rubber boots over the hiems, I've had them on my impreza for 4 years now and there still quiet. I think the boots help to keep dirt out of the heims but most of mine have gotten torn up and fallen off. Im thinking of giving this set a try next http://www.ebay.com/itm/6PC-REAR-LATERAL-LINK-TRAILING-ARM-SS-SUSPENSION-KIT-02-07-IMPREZA-WRX-STi-GD-GG-/190804344943?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Make%3ASubaru&hash=item2c6cd3406f&vxp=mtr the hiems look really beefy and look to have a dust boot built into them.

If your clutch is cable driven, im guessing it is, try adjusting it the cable is likely getting streched now because of the lift and partly disengauging the clutch at all times

The rear bumper will be up for sale and maybe the front too if it dosen't fit well on the the OBS That will be up for sale too but I'm not selling the modded front knuckles or upper A arms I haven't tested the knuckles enough to feel ok about selling them to someone else and the hiems in the upper arms will be used for something else. but I will include the lowers you can use them with the stock lower ball joints.

And the bad news, It didn't really turn out like planned, its too loud and don't drive well on the road it was all over the place on the packed snow and ice almost imposible to control at over 25 mph. I wanted it to be more of a dailly driver that can do well off road but turned out to be more of just a off road toy. but it did do really well off road. But when I did take it out for a little fun on the 1st of the year on some near by trails, only the second time taking it off road, I ended up bending one of the rear swing arms I had built the one the bearing and backing plate bolts to and I wasn't even pushing it that hard I just slid into some sort of deep ruts left by other trucks. So long story short I just dont have the time or will to build a new rear swing arm and try and reenforce them so it don't just bend again. And try and fix all the other weird problems with this custom suspension. So new plan is Im getting a 97 OBS from a friend of mine and will be swaping over the engine trans, roof rack, bumper and winch and brakes on to, and doing a more traditional lift and just sticking with the strut system instead of trying to reinvent everything. Not trying to dicourage anyone from trying something new but for now I dont have the time and just want something that I know works. So hope fully this project can be some good inspiration for someone. and some pics of the damage

So I got a good news bad news up date, good news is I got some new pics, so here they are. And some of the interior and air shifter for the HI Low

you can use that 05 trans with out having to build custom axles, just get the axles stubs from an auto and axle seals for the older trans, the auto axle stubs just pop right in and you can use your old axles like stock. I've been running this set up for about 5 years now.

Very true, for me to come up with a bolt on kit like this I would have to get at least 4K for it and it still might not be worth it and I don't see many people wanting to pay 4 times the value of the car for a suspension kit.

I know its been awhile but its time for an update I've been both busy and lazy and haven't gotten around to it. I Got front and rear tube bumpers built and a roof rack and winch installed I also got the engine in and running along with the onboard air system, converted an ac comp to a air compressor. and had to swap out the old front springs for some off a supra because the old one couldn't hold the weight once the engine was in. And added some limiting straps I'll tray and get some better and more updated pics soon.

So I finally got a chance to get the GL in the garage and take a look at it, and after pulling out the HVAC switches and finding the solenoid for the defrost door I found out I still had the vac line for the cruse control solenoid (that I removed) hooked up to the vac system so I had a big vac leak. I also didn't have the check valve in at the canister, so after getting all that sorted out the defrost works. Thanks for all the help on what and were to look at so I could get this fixed. oh and this car did have the vac motor and I had removed it back when I did the swap so I think it was just for cruse control.

So I'm having problems with the defrost on my swaped GL, from what I can find in my searching the defrost is vac controlled and to check the vac canister under the hood. I've checked the lines and have the canister hooked up and vacuum getting to the lines under the dash but the defrost still wont work. So dose anyone know were the door that controls the defrost is at or were the diaphragm that moves it is at I'm guessing thats were my problem is at. But what I don't get is why the defrost is the only part not working in any other car I've driven if something fails in the HVAC system it will default to only defrost for safety. But on the GL it all just comes out the main vents seems like a crapy design to me.

is that a GC front end on a GD body?