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Grant's website says they still have them, but you would have to contact them for sure Part # 6596 Euro installation kit. It only works with the 5 bolt signature series steering wheels. http://www.grantproducts.com/products/application_search/#30/47/826/180 I got mine through Baxter auto parts. They may have had some old stock in a warehouse. ea81 Justy The Justy splines match the ea82, but definitely not the ea81.

I am biased toward the ea81. I plan to skip the ea82 and go to EJ22 when I move to fuel injection. My daily driver is an '81 ea81 of course with 285 k and it still motates exceptionally well. I am constantly impressed by these engines. Just look at that face. How can you resist the ea81? This '84 wagon is freshly for sale BTW.

The first thing I would say is don't drive it until you figure out what is going on. Remove the wheel and check the drum/hub, wheel bearings, axle nut, etc.. It could be a suspension problem. You might have to replace some things. Have you noticed any noise from that area when you were driving?

$14.87 at Rock Auto under ['84][Electrical Switch & Relay][Radiator Fan Switch] http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php

Thanks, I am going to try to get the pebbles out without removing the rings. I think the re-install would be the more likely step for damage. They flex a lot when I put leverage on them but don't unseat. High probability of tweakage if I go for it.

It's not if you are meticulous. The first Hitachi I rebuilt I did with a dreaded Haynes manual (ea81). It has a half-way decent description of the carb rebuild with numbered steps. I taped every part from the carb onto a piece of cardboard with transparent tape as I disassembled it and wrote the step #, part description, and other notes next to each part consecutively. It made reassembly very easy. I think it took the better part of a day the first time I did it. You have to allow time for parts cleaning, which can be a lot or a little. It looks to me like you need 96-676 (if the picture is correct) I use Gas-ga-cinch sealant (sparingly) on my carb gaskets, and let it dry before install. Others use other products or don't use anything. If you do use a sealant on your gaskets, make sure your are careful not to create any tiny bits that might come off and clog the tiny fuel circuits.

ea81 transmission mounts are whimpy so if/when you do this you should also unbolt the transmission mounts so you don't damage them when you jack up the engine/trans. There are two 14 mm nuts in the underside of the transmission crossmember. If you remove them along with the engine mount nuts then the engine/trans can be jacked up a bit. I did this recently too and did the RTV coating as well. I used Ultra Black which should be fine and let it dry overnight. I also put a slip-coat of aviation anaerobic form-a-gasket on it right before install. Just make sure you don't torque the oil pan bolts too much. +1

I am prepping one of my '84s for sale and one of the rear wheels has some rocks stuck under the metal wheel skirt ring thing. The sound they make is a little "distracting". I would normally just rip them off, but there is probably some rust underneath, and I would rather let the next owner make that decision. So I am wondering about the best way to remove the skirts or just the rocks without mangling the metal.

If you completely unscrew and remove the backlash adjuster screw and lock nut you can pull out the plastic spacer and squish a bunch of grease in there and move the rack back and forth through it's full range of motion. It is possible that the backlash adjuster spacer is even the problem. The rack moves back and forth against it, no bearings, if it does not have lube or the old lube is gummy, then there could be a lot of friction. I have done this to all of my Subarus and it helps a lot with the friction in the steering, plus you get to remove the steering backlash in the process.

You might try Trisodium Phosphate (TSP), cheap and plentiful at anyplace that sells paint prep supplies.

If you haven't fixed this and adjusted your idle speed screw until the car idles on its own then you probably are not running on the idle circuit of the carb. Which is really not that good. I have done it to get my car home when my idle circuit has gotten clogged, but it is more of a temporary thing. Where the wire broke off at the solenoid (this happens all the time) there should be about 3/16" of black rubber insulation. Carefully shave some of that down until you have a bit of wire exposed to solder the other end of the wire back to it. At some point along that wire cut it and attach mated electrical connectors like spades, so in the future you can disconnect the wire when you want to unscrew the solenoid. Once you have that done you can adjust your carb properly.

They play a substantial role in holding the wheel and hub to the axle. Subaru recommends replacing them everytime the axle is replaced. Replacement everytime may be a bit of overkill (or might not), but chances are that yours have either never been replaced or haven't been replaced in a long time. They are extremely important parts to have in good working order...meaning not worn down. Once you have more posts you can do some searches and see how much has been said about it. Member GeneralDisorder has explained this many times in detail in the past, so when you have the ability to search you can look for postings by him on the subject.

Ok so obviously you when you replaced the first axle there should have been two washers at the end of the axle spindle along with the axle spindle nut. Do you remember those? If they were not there, do not drive your vehicle until you have replaced those washers along with the hub because if you drove it 2000+ miles without them then the hub is probably toast. The Empi's can be had at some independent parts stores, check VW specialty shops or just order them online. The run about $60. Getting a used hub and knuckle at the JY is not a bad idea. Make sure you bring some leverage. The hub is the outer part with the wheel lugs in it. The knuckle has the bearings in it.

The grinding sounds like you might have bad wheel bearings. I would also suggest getting new Empi axles from somewhere other than Checkers and replace the conical and spring washers. Make sure you torque the axle nut to spec. and check the splines in your hub. If the splines in your hub are going out that could also cause a grinding sound with a sensation of power loss.

First I will say that I comment with the hope that someone more knowledgeable can confirm or deny the following, but I think there is at least the possibility of a freeze plug being dislodged. Since you're in Alaska that makes some sense. I believe they are located in the head under the valve cover gaskets, but someone that works on EA82s will have to confirm that. It allows coolant into the crankcase which doesn't sound exactly like what you have going on, but it seems possible that it could also get into the cylinders, and like I said, hopefully someone can chime in on that.

A lot of things or more likely a combination of several worn parts can cause this. A couple things that are often overlooked are blown out transmission mounts and back lash in the steering rack (which can be adjusted out). Other things include pitch-stopper issues, bad u-joints, bad CV axles, bad alignment, wheels out of balance, ball joints, wheel bearings, loose hub, etc...I know that does not help you narrow things down much, but you can easily check the integrity of your trans. mounts, pitch-stopper bushings, and the torque on the spindle nuts with the car parked. Steering rack back lash can be checked somewhat qualitatively while parked. Basically your looking for a lag in steering. If you turn the steering wheel does it take a second or take an excessive rotation of the steering wheel to actually get the wheels to turn? I adjust mine maybe once every two years or more, but chances are that most '80s Subarus on the road have never had it done. Adjusting it takes that loose unresponsive feeling out of the steering. With your car on jack stands, try moving or wobbling the wheels in directions they are not supposed to go, and see if you get any play back and forth. If you get some movement try to see if you can tell if it comes from the steering linkage or hub and investigate accordingly. It's also probably does not cost too much to have your wheels balanced.

It's a Subaru. They did not become Suzukis until '95 and were not sold in the US.

Nice work! I think a Ghostbusters ambulance siren is in order.

I think maybe even the filter was originally under the hood without one by the tank. I can't remember that far back on my hatch, but it seems like every '81 I have seen at the very least had the filter converted back by the tank. Additionally, the under hood pump does a lot more pulling of fuel than pushing (pushing is better, that is at least one of the main reasons it was relocated by the gas tank in later models). Conceiveably, an underperforming pump located under the hood may work adequately when relocated by the gas tank. Anecdotally, I have never had a problem with the under hood pump on my hatch over the past 6 years. However, once I had to prime the fuel line with a Mityvac after I pulled the gas tank. It's an easy switch to move the pump, and (hopefully someone can verify this) but I think the '81s had in-line vapor separator(s). Also that wierd black canister with the two vacuum lines is an air cleaner that I think kept dirt out of the duty solenoids. I think they have a reed check valve mechnism, and it's almost guaranteed that it is not functioning properly, not to mention the duty solenoids.

Yes, another standard feature of the '81s that was changed in later years.

'81s don't have the vapor separator/filter. They just have the one filter by the gas tank. No filter under the hood.

It's not really a matter of being sensitive, this is an international forum with over 31,000 members and since it's all written communication it is easy for intentions to be misinterpretted without the benefit of being face-to-face. True enough. For me it would just be easier to buy the adapter and cut gaskets for the carb base rather than buying manifold gaskets(at the dealer BTW) and swapping manifolds. Either way is a good option. From memory, there is not much difference really. I think there is a slight difference, but I wasn't able to find the info in a search in the time I have to do so. Realistically there are probably bigger jetting differences between individual cars and locations than between the ea82 & ea81. Chances are you will have to do some rebuilding on the Weber and change a jet or air bleed, and that is just a little more likely when putting a carb for an ea82 on an ea81.

By a box of rocks I assume you mean it sounds like it is developing rod knock. The ea81 rarely needs a re-ring, but if it has been abused then it's possible if not probable. I would Seafoam the engine, put a new oil pump on it, get a new PCV valve from the dealer and replace and reseal your oil pan gasket and valve cover gaskets. Clean out or replace the hoses of the PCV system. Put a non-Fram oil filter on it with conventional 10W-30 and see how it runs. If it still has all the ASV and other emmissions solenoids and stuff then search on this forum for how to remove them. The Weber for $100 is probably a safe bet, but it might be easier to get an ea81 adapter plate and new jets, than to try to put all the ea82 stuff on as is. It is best not to refer to this engine or car as a "lil jap anything". It's derogatory and the ea81 is a very respected engine in this community and rightly so. Once you have learned more about it you will find that it is an extremely well designed, dependable, sensible, and durable work horse.

Excellent point-don't just check them, replace them. For a twenty bucks you can replace all your hoses, just do it one at a time so you don't mess them up. I don't know about the carter carb, but the Hitachi has a small brass pellet in the choke vacuum pull off that needs to be put back into the replacement hose, so check vac hoses from the carb for those pellets (orifice restrictors).

If nothing has been done to upgrade your charging system then the stock alternator is still the one you have, not the original but the stock alternator. The external voltage regulator will eventually give you problems, but if you have a new alt on there right now you should focus on the carb and take some time to learn about the charging and electrical system before you attempt mods on them. Don't limit yourself to this forum to learn about alternators and automotive electrical. There is a lot of good info on the internet, bad info too, but if you stick with the basics and look at several sources of consistent info, chances are you're learning good info. The fuel cut off switch is not the same as a relay tied to an engine running condition. If you get in an accident and get knocked unconscious, then you won't be able to switch off the fuel pump and gas could be spewing out of a fuel line. The fuel pump will empty your gas tank, most likely under you and the vehicle, and may even supply the ignition spark. I resoldered mine on the car. In fact I really just re-melted the existing solder. I may have added a little solder, but not much. Just disconnect the battery and you don't have to pull the motor unit to re-solder. The timimg could easily be off and would contribute to your poor mileage and engine run-on. The anti-dieseling solenoid in the carb could also be faulty (assuming a carter has one). Definitely learn how to check and adjust your timing. It's super easy and super important. The Weber carb upgrade is difficult to tune in to pass emissions in places that allow it, but the Weber is just straight-up illegal in Cali. It doesn't mean you can't use a Hitachi to pass and put the Weber on afterwards. The SPFI swap will fix the issue as well. You will need a different intake manifold either way. Having just acquired the vehicle, the Hitachi swap is probably the easiest option in the near term. After you have learned more about the car, the rest will become more clear.