soobme

COOOOOOL!!!! I'm off to go put an old one in!:wave:

I know that they are not the same length, but can U put an EA82 axle in an EA81 as a very temporary fix? Will it fit? Are the joints the same? I have an EA82 outer joint with no shaft or any thing that I gess I could use to push the car around with if I have to. It would just be ALOT eazyer if I could drive it the 100ft. or so that I need it to go.

That would be my blue turbo(soon NOT turbo:-p ) That's a good lookin' roo U got there, U work out @ Ericson Air. or what? I get to work around 2:20PM or so Mon.-Thur. and I take lunch @ 7:00PM. Stop in some time and we can talk:wave: PS: Just looked @ your Bio, I see that U DO work @ Erikson, NICE:brow:

I looked through all the vac. lines, nothing wrong there, but the MAF:eh: I haden't thought of that, keep me posted.

I HEAR THAT! I just need this damn thin to last me till Jan. ( that's when I plan on doing the swap)

What if U made them more like a gaurd than a cover, leave the front open but have protection all around the sides and back. This would give protection with out being a PITA when it was time to do belts ect.

OK, the turbo is acting funny agen(imagine that:eek: ) NOT funny "Ha ha" but funny"I'm gona shoot that car:temper: " It will not idle, if I take my foot off the gas it will die, acceleration is bad, acts like a carb with a bad acselerator pump. And it's a bi#$h to get started. I have to hold my foot to the floor while crancking the engine for 10-15 seconds. The fule pressure is good(@ the fule rail) I THINK it's getting good spark(it will rev up, but I have no way of knowing how good the spark is) So I'm wondering if it might be air related:eh:

Is there a conversion/miss mach/monstosity that U haven't worked on?

Ooooo:o Didn't know that the EA82 FW had bigger holes, don't know if I like that idea:eh: My FW is lighter than stock now any way, so I think I will need to get a 4WD FW and PP, I can still use my old(EA82) cluch disk with the EA81 4WD FW and PP can't I? I allready have an after market temp gauge so that's cool, and I don't have an oil P. gauge on the digi dash So I will need an aftermarket one any way. I just need to keep the fule gauge, speedo-,tach, and out side temp gauge on the digi dash:-)

Naw, no good, I think U should just give it to me for the EA81 I'm gona put together;) :-p :-p In all honesty I think it sounds like a great idea, might be a little tricky to set up right. But it would kick A$$

Well, I un-criped the line as best I could. So far no oil leak:cornfuzz: and the turbo is doing great:cornfuzz: :cornfuzz: I can't for the life of me figure out what happend:drunk: I'm not crazy, I have 4 witneses who saw how much oil was coming out.

That's the plan in a nut shell;) I don't ever want to look @ a turbo oil or water line agen!! The EFI runs no better than a carb except when I'm at a BIG angel. And most of the time it runs worse:temper:

Well...see there! I had allwase been told that high EGT was un-burend fule in the exaust=rich. Low EGT was good= burning all the fule. For all I know I could be way off on that, it's just what I have been told for years.

Good Idea on the T.C., it just so hapens I have a carb '85 EA82 out back I bet I can get the parts from:-) As to the fly-wheel, my EA81 doner car is an '82 2WD 4spd, so it's got the wrong fly wheel on it:(

Just my $.02 but.... I would try some regular(87 oct.) and see what hapens with EGT, if it drops, and U are still making good power with out detonation I would stick with it. U might even make a little more power with it, and it will save U @ the pump. More timing is a mixed bag, it might make a little more power, but it might start to run hoter, run on when U shut it off, ect. It all depends on engine desine, CR, cams ect. And I have no 1st hand exp. with the Justy engine to be of any help there.

OK, I have found out a little more info. 2nd Q: is the inner joint on the rear a CV, or a DOJ?

There is some twisting of the splines, but it snaped right @ the point where the splines IN the side gear start.

I know that I need to use the EA82 fly-wheel, cluch disk, and presure plate. And I'm sure that the throtle cable and mounts will need some re-working, fans and rad. hoses. What about engine mounts? Are they the same? This will be on the turbo('85 turbo wagon to EA81) Will the digi dash still work fine with out the engine computer?

I have no idea how to get the busted stub out of the dif. It broke off right @ the start of the inner splines. I figure I can weld a nut onto whats left of the center bolt to get that out. But the stub it's self has me bafeled:cornfuzz:

U raise a good point Ken, but if it's poss. I would rather have the DOJ as the weak point in the rear. This stub looks like it's gona be a pain to get the rest of the stub and the shank from the bolt out. I don't know if it would be poss. to do it on the trail with out a welder(I'm working on one, but it's not in the car yet) I know that it snaped due to my led foot, but I just hate to put the same weak componant back in where I just busted one.

I'm wondering how much it would help to have the stock stubs glass beaded and then cryo treated:eh:

Thank U!!!! I hadn't thought of that:eek: I will need to plug the return line too:o I figure I can wire the waste gate open to help with exaust flow. I should come up with an intake hose for it to by-pass the turbo.

Well...I gess that I wil un-crimp the oil feed line and see what hapens. If it just starts to shoot oil agen I can allwayse cut and fold the line to stop ALL oil flow to the turbo and wait for it to sease up. Will it still run with the turbo seized? I know it would be down on power big time, but will it run?

What about the R180's? I have been told that the stubs are the same spling count/dia. How are they retained? Are they hollow?

Any one?!? I KNOW I'm not the only one to snap a stub. There has GOT to be a cure for this. I would rater blow DOJ's all day than snap a stub.