aircraft engineer

OK - so was it out when they started? The only thing it sounds like was that they put the wheel holder (a padded thing they use to hold the wheel stationary while they twist on the steering rods) in the wrong place (like they may have had the wheel turned a bit from moving the car on the jig.) The ALIGNMENT is OK (the car steers straight), but the wheel position isn't "up and down" when the car is GOING straight. And it isn't difficult to change. it's just the "toe in/out" setting that they need to adjust.

There's a plug on the side of the AT pan. Looks just like an oil drain plug. Pull out the plug, drain the old oil and replace it with the same quantity as you drained out (yeah, measure it - but it will be in the 5 qt range) then go recycle the old trans fluid make sure you get dexron/mercron II or III NOT the stuff suitable for CHRYSLER (the ATF +3 stuff) because it has an extra "slippery fluid additive" to deal with the Chrysler clutch packs. I have no idea of what it will do in a Sub. I know that using "straight" dexron in a 604 FWD Dodge will cause the trans to burn up the clutches Actually easier than changing oil (no filter to deal with)

What am I missing here? I thought the intent was to pull the CV bearing out of the outer axle cup. According to "the book", remove the boot clamps and push back the boot, fish around in the grease and as gary says, find the circlip end and pry it out. (or spray wash the thing before getting "messy") The CV bearing cage and the 6 big balls come right out of the axle cup attached to the end of the axle shaft. Clean up the cup and put it back into the housing and torque down the axle nut. You can pull out the diff if you want but aside from the extra weight it won't matter once the drive shaft is out.

torque - which IIRC was the reason they went with the Poncho engine - trying to get the smallest bore for the displacement available for max torque (since the engine was running about 1900 or so) on that reduced power fuel mixture Nothing "new" fits that description, but maybe one of the older engines might still be avail in other than a museum. if anyone tries the gasifier, remember, you will lose probably 20% of the rated power output because of the nature of the fuel

send a PM to subiegal and get the part number??

Pretty much - it has the oil in it and you pulled out the input. I will drip all over particularly if you had it nose down I'm not familiar with Sub trans, but in 'Murcan old stuff, the cluster gears came out with the input shaft and they had lots of oil in the sync's

Sounds like a rear wheel bearing (poor pun, I know) - too bad you aren't out here - I just did a 97 and I have a hub that I can put in a new bearing (just did a swap from a JY car and was conservative in that I bought the new NGK bearing "just in case"). it's not "difficult, just "time consuming" (and you need to have a few pieces of equipment to do the work - like a hydraulic press, 32mm socket and a bearing splitter)

OK - drew out 5 qts and replaced it. RPM seems to be up a thou or so (I haven't driven it, this is hearsay) It supposedly did the same right after she bought it but then it settled down a couple hundred miles later. I pulled out the dipstick and it was "brown" (it WAS red when I looked at it right after she bought the car), so did a 5 qt swap and I suspect that it had been done the same right before we looked at it (since I ALWAYS look at ATF on a "new purchase") She says she will do a total flush when she gets to PHX next week Ideas?? (didn't smell "burnt" though, just brown color)

might try if I had a Sub to try it on. I don't and the axles are OK on the one I was fixing.

that's the main drawback - they tend to be large. it takes a bit of volume to make one large enough to handle the thruput requirements of even a small engine and still have enough "storage space" for the wood/coal/whatever. I wish I could find my old copy of "Mother Earth News" from maybe 40 years ago that showed a self sufficient house running on 2 co-linked Pontiac 195 CID 4 cyls with "swimming pool" sized coolant water storage and 2 gasifiers (and before anyone asks - they were 1/2 of a 389 Poncho V-8, long stroke, slow turning engines driving as I remember a single 15kw generator belt drive) heat and electricity both from an engine source running on wood chips - they just changed the engines' input to service the system and clean out the gasifier filters. Looks like the diagram in Wiki is in Swedish or some other scandahoovian languach Yah sure, ya betcha.

I was just readin' the CHILTON. They "say" the circlip is easy enough to get out No, I haven't tried axles on a Sub yet - just Tempo and Caravan - but the same principle

of course, the OTHER easy way out is to find someone with an exhaust analyzer (pollution tester) and test it. HC emissions show up RIGHT NOW even at idle (particularly at increased throttle right AFTER idle - when the smoke is thick) That and actually oil burning will show up on the PLUGS as well. Pretty easy to see

where did the pic come from? It's what I want to do combustor on the right, separator in the middle, "intercooler" on the left

hey - want to sell it? Send me a PM - I just got done working on one for the sister and I kinda like the li'l beastie I'm a puyalluper

Use masking tape and a magic marker. LABEL everything as it's disconnected ON BOTH SIDES OF THE DISCONNECT. Write down a code if you need A1 A2 A3 or whatever - if you have a fine marker, use it instead but the code works well (bigger is better and easier to read - but you do need the matrix of what A1 A2 and A3 etc mean - in case you get "confused". Get a digital camera and take LOTS of pictures Nothing in Chilton's about lift points

There's a large circlip right inside the CV cup that has to come out to separate the axle shaft/ CV race and balls subassembly from the axle cup. Pull back the boot and scoop out the grease. Book shows it coming out by using a large screwdriver. Would still be a lot easier to do it with it out of that car Don't need to use no steeenkin' hammer

everybody forgot to ask "what brand filter"? I'm sorry, I guess, I just use aftermarket (primarily FRAM because of the grit ends) Flush contact plus 1/2 to 3/4 turn IF you want to verify and don't mind killing the filter, tighten it an additional 1/2 turn or so with a filter removal wrench and check it again. The sister's 2.2 had a coated filter, too and it was a leaky oil pump crank mainseal and NOT the filter Like others have said, IF the sealing surface is smooth and the filter is contact tight plus 1/2 to 3/4 turn to compress the gasket, there is NOTHING there that can leak from the filter to block joint - those flat o-rings will hold 100psi EASILY

or maybe you can find a 2.2 and put the head gasket issue to bed for good

ah - different question. you might be better off IF you can find a couple of axles with bad outer CV and take them apart for just the "outers" and save the existing axles. Lots of JY actually cut the axles when removing the diffs so the outers are literally "junk" to them. If you are just pulling out the guts and leaving the axle shaft in the hub, you will need to clean out the grease or it will get "messy" - and that's easier to do with the full axle out I'm not familiar with Sub axle CV construction, but on my Tempo (and Caravan), it's not held in by anything. The CV cage and balls are held to the end of the axle shaft with a small circlip but the axle/cage subassembly just slides right out. the circlip might serve as a detent, but I never paid attention. The axle just pops out of the CV axle end hub (and leaves all the joint grease behind). Why the reluctance to pull the entire axle? It's just an "out/in" job without "consequences" - pull 2 pins, 2 axle nuts free them up and pull them out. Sure makes getting the "other parts of the CV" out a lot easier. I'm pretty sure you can drop the diff without adverse impact (it's in its own "carrier")

Yeah - after Subaru of Puyallup quoted 1800 to fix a "head gasket" which I KNEW wasn't BLOWN, I sort of lost a lot of respect for them. The car was slinging out out the driver cam seal and dripping out the valve cover gaskets. 10 to 12 hours of work (first time - if I did one again, I could cut it in HALF) and 200 or so in parts. Hmmm - $100/hour that's shop rate.

furniture dollies from harbor freight are about $20 - get the plastic one - it won't hold the as much as the wood one or toss on a piece of plywood or masonite as protection

Timing belt is relatively easy (I just did a 2.2 and wouldn't have any reservations about a 2.5) and not too expensive for the parts either. Check the radiator overflow for evidence of oil (head gasket) 4500 is pretty reasonable for 125k, but expect to do the timing belt - no matter what - if they were keeping to book maintenance, you have a few though left before you HAVE TO DO IT, but it's cheap insurance to DO IT AS SOON AS YOU BUY IT (particularly if you can do it yourself) because it's that ^&$^%*$#^ interference engine and you BREAK THE ENGINE IF YOU BREAK THE BELT!!

this is all from interpretation of the BOOK so it's SUPPOSED to work - The axle is held to the differential output with a pin through the differential output shaft/ junction to the axle. you can drive out the pin and disconnect the axle from the diff by moving the (former) connection outboard towards the wheel. You then can remove the axle nut from the hub IF you have enough "hole in the center of the wheel clearance" to turn the 32mm socket (we are talking SUB here, right?) Get a punch and drive the axle out of the hub. Comes right out after the nut is removed (at least in the non-salty roads northwest it did anyway) Now of course, you COULD jack up the car, remove the wheels one at a time, pull the axle nuts and then put the wheels back on and then do the other side. When you have both axle nuts off and the differential connections removed, then pull out the axles and you have a "front wheels up" dollyable car (which is why I suspect you are asking) I found that IF you (or someone else) hold the brakes tight, you get enough oomph to "turn" the axle nuts and remove them without needing to undo that detent on the end (it just form it back into a "circle"). With the axles out, it's "towable" on a dolly instead of needing trailered. YOU WON'T HAVE ENOUGH ROOM TO PUSH THE AXLE BACK OUT THRU THE HUB UNLESS IT'S DISCONNECTED FROM THE DIFFERENTIAL FIRST!! NOT ENOUGH SLACK IN THE SYSTEM. TO PULL THEM TAKE OFF THE DIFF CONNECTIONS FIRST THEN THEY WILL SLIDE OUT FROM THE INSDE UNDER THE CAR Dunno what would be necessary to do the fronts though if you needed to flat tow it. (same process??) ALSO - I WOULDN'T TOW IT VERY FAR WITHOUT AN OUTER CV AXLE SHAFT HOUSING INSTALLED INTO EACH OF THE REAR WHEEL HOUSINGS. THE ONLY THING HOLDING ON THE WHEEL WOULD BE THE SNAP RING ON THE OUTSIDE OF THE BEARING. WITH THE AXLE STUB INSTALLED AND THE AXLE NUT INSTALLED, IT'S SECURE

me too but at 3.50/gal I'm stretching things out a wee bit I wonder if I can make a gasifier and run on wood chips or charcoal? Actually, I think I can but I'm just not in the mood for development work

Y'all want to go out on the flight line and get me a bucket of propwash? maybe we can get a couple of gunny sacks and go out snipe hunting