aircraft engineer

I can't say about automotive plugs - but in aircraft, the fine wire electrodes last about 3X as long as "massive electrodes" Automotive plugs are a bit different in the design, though - the center electrode is the platinum in the auto - the "outers" (grounding to the plug threaded part) are the "fine wires". I'm pretty sure the platinum in auto plugs is "alloy", probably with a copper main electrodemost of the way down the plug - but I'm not sure) I understand that the polarity of the spark changes with the "direction" (normal firing over time tends to wear the center electrode more in auto plugs) and the platinum is MUCH more resistant to metal loss thru arcing over time than "steel" so I would expect them to go 3x or so longer (YMMV, of course). Are they "worth" the premium? Your call. I'm thinking about going out into the old scrap bin I have of old plugs (I used to make metal sculptures with them) and finding the platinums and picking off the electrodes. Platinum is over $2000/ounce right now and I think I might have 2 grams of them. (that's $150 for "junk" that takes up a wire about .5mm dia. and maybe 6 inches long) <you probably didn't want the technicals>

Here's the list http://www.subarupartsforyou.com/cp_partlistbymod.php?subcat=Axle%2C+Front

nope - gathers speed downhill just a soap box derby racer. No indication of dragging brakes

The sister's Imp threw a #4 code - it turned out that when the "old" plugs were replaced (gap was 080 - yeah, thats EIGHTY - about 2X recommended) the code went away and hasn't returned. Since 3 & 4 are connected across the same coil pack, I was surprised that it didn't show 3 AND 4, just 4. Hers threw the code decelling at 35 down a long hill in 3rd (I think 3rd anyway) I'm not familiar with these exact electronics but IF you have a bonding/grounding problem you will see it (clean it all and retighten the connections to ground - lots of flaky things happen when the system isn't grounded correctly)

you wouldn't by any chance be trying to fix a leaky rear window washer would you? It's likely in the drivers side RUBBER JOINT - the pipe (hose) has gotten stiff and cracked. Pull out the rubber cover and fish the hoses out, go get a couple of connectors and a piece of rubber vac hose and plug it all back together. Didn't try getting out the headliner, though

I don't have the book right here (have an installation manual for the 97), but take a look at the plug connector. Right above the 2 fuses (above meaning toward the box connector) was where the book said the reset button was supposed to be (now this was from a 97 Impreza manual, though so it might not be the same for a 98) If you have 2 unconnected wires there, them's the two it should be. Also, it depends on whether it was Sub FACTORY installation (some were done after arrival into the US by the DEALER which is what the manual was for) IF it is factory (or dealer installed factory), the BOX with the antenna wire will say SUBARU on it. IF it doesn't, it's likely an aftermarket unit (and rots-a-ruck figuring out "who's on first" because they are not alike) I've seen "ungo" boxes that were "similar" but not identical and alarm boxes that are "similar" (been poking around in several junkyards). Even the box connections to wiring harness aren't the same for aftermarket stuff.

har har hardy har har. Yeah but try a pound of gold versus a pound of iron. (Troy versus Avoirdupois - and there IS a difference) I'm actually a "metric measurement proponent" - a gram is a gram is a gram. Too bad the aircraft industry doesn't want to go that way - makes calculations a LOT easier. Of course we COULD just fly another Mars probe into the planet... You KNOW I meant "made of feathers versus made of steel" <grumble grumble...> (by the way SUB3 - since the 1.8 has been out of production for a while, you have an older model. The older Impreza front wells aren't very "clearance friendly". I meant the part about about doing the equivalent of a torque bind test (figure 8 lock to lock) to verify clearance. Since it doesn't snow all that often in Ft Worth, you most likely don't have to contend with the chain issue. There isn't any appreciable difference in the wheels as far as "inertia" and likely a minimal increase in basic weight as well. That extra weight at an extra 1/2 inch of radius doesn't really matter since it's all in "rotation". When I was doing mileage calculations, I was using a hand held GPS for getting the distance and comparing it against the odometer to get the conversion factor)

doesn't take a whole lot of blowby to turn that white filter "dark" Remember, that's the INTAKE for the PCV system, not the outlet - the outlet is directly into the manifold What happens is that the pulsations in the crankcase resonate back thru the air inlet and oil fumes get "bounced" (no better way to describe it) back up to the inlet filter and collect there. A little oil adheres and builds up and whatever "dirt" is coming in thru the the air inlet horn (it's not filtered at that point) just gets "trapped" (which is what the filter was supposed to do anyway)

any time you can increase your rolling radius, the number of turns of the driveshaft will be less to go the same distance. Rotational mass is about as unimportant as it can be here - the relative weight differences are minimal unless one is made of cast iron and the other feathers. I used to run 14 inch on a Pinto designed for 13 without any issue except for rear wheel well clearances in jounce ("jounce" is when the rear end goes "up" - the other way is "rebound"). So, now, there's the MAIN problem - it's "likely" that the tire to wheel well clearances are going to shrink to where you can't run chains if you need them. I know that on the 97 Impreza, the standard size TIRE was 195-60/15 and going to just 205-60/15 reduces the wheel clearance enough to where the tires (chains, actually) won't clear the front wheel wells IN TURNING (it WILL run straight ahead, though without rubbing). With a wheel size increase, it makes it even more of an issue unless you can raise the suspension a "bit". IF you can go without chains, try the wheel/tire combo on flat ground steering wheel stop to stop and see what rubs. No rubbing, good to go. You might need to go down a size on the tires

Unless you just want to own your own, I go to AutoZone and have them read it for free. I even buy parts there sometimes Harbor Freight has some on sale sometimes for various prices according to what they are capable of doing. Last week's ad - (went off) reader 94168 $39, with can 94169 $59, with script 94217 $89. I have NO idea what the differences are, though.

he doesn't like the idea of re-using the axle nut. It doesn't matter, really IF the threads are OK and the punched in detent isn't cracked. The "active threads" are all down below that threaded nut extension anyway and the torque is what matters most. The only thing the detent does is remind you that the nut WAS torqued and staked (that's the detent) right after torquing. It also stops the nut from backing off if the torque wasn't set correctly. It's not a self locking nut Myself, I'm used to stainless lockwire

remembering that the "gallon" the Brits base their measurement on is a FIVE quart (as in "imperial") gallon, so the economy values might be off by 20% "high"

up and down movement of the tie rod end is "bad". the other check is to jack up that wheel and do a wiggle from front and rear of the tire and see if it moves "a lot" (shows how much slop there is in the steering)

indicates either overfilled on the oil or blowby thru the engine (and of course, depends on how long ago you checked and it was "clean")

I hope that by "regular motor oil" you mean "ordinary dexron II or III" MOTOR OIL IS NOT THE SAME ANIMAL AT ALL - WE ARE TALKING ABOUT AN AUTO TRANS - RIGHT??

valve cover gasket(s) or the cam seal. Just fixed a 97 where they were both bad. How much oil on the exhaust?

also check wheel balance and tie rod ends

I guess I'm just getting too old - lights are something you look WITH, not AT :cool: (and the blue ones hurt my eyes when they are behind me, too)

second alternate - take it to Jiffy Lube and spend the $90 and not mess with it yourself. Full flush, getting it up to "level" is their problem third alternate - put bagpipe bag... oh wait, I actually LIKE pipes Must be the 1/4 scot in me

and the solenoid was what cut off the vac so the system isn't "on" all the time. On the old add-on system I have in another vehicle, the vac was "on" but the solenoid was in the control unit - it just shut off the vac to the bellows inside the "box"

it wouldn't be a problem except for the alignment part of the toe. You need to loosen the clamps on the rod ends at the tie rods, then put a vise grip on rod. Trouble is I don't remember which way to go for left or right - but you turn each of them 1/2 turn IN OPPOSITE DIRECTIONS, tighten it up and try it. Either you went the correct way or the other way. (it's trial and error without a rack) The wheel will move a bit each time. Lather, rinse, repeat until satisfied I LIKE Sears (they might cost $70 but it seems to be "right" every time I need one - which isn't too often) and they are nationwide (pepBOYS and Wally World seem to get the "kids") IF you had a bad steering rack, you'd know it

and a funnel with a small enough end to fit in it needs to be 10 inches long or so to get up above the hose clutter (or at least it did on the Impreza)

and it's still off? curiouser and curiouser. The wheel position should make the system uniformly "off" (both wheels off the same amount in the same direction) in the same direction - then they just loosen the tie rod ends and twist the rods to make it go "straight" (and the wheel just stayed straight) I'll bet it wasn't "Sears" (of course, they test drive the alignment before they give it back) go have them drive it and let them see it for theselves

the cruise vac line is full engine vacuum on everything I've worked on. the system modulates the vac to wheel speed in the vacuum operated throttle positioner (or at least it does in the 'Murcan units I'm used to working with - Ford/Dodge) If you are just revving, it sounds like the control unit isn't getting a signal and is trying to make the engine catch up to a phantom speed input. Either that or the control unit isn't a match for the electronics

93 CARAVAN with a 3.3 V6 2nd trans. The 97 Impreza didn't have a filter