aircraft engineer

Hey Porc - so you get the pictured cans, get a 5 gallon can with a lid, mix 'em together and pour maybe a pint or so into a tank huh? I would point out to you that the potential problem would be with those solvents and the "seals" in the fuel system. Depending on what the seal material is, it could EASILY soften the seals or maybe even the o-rings. The hydrocarbon "gasoline" - (even with MTBE or ethanol) doesn't quite behave the same as those solvents (acetone and toluene being the most "aggressive" to even synthetic rubber products) I don't think the cat would have a problem with it (fortunately) The VM&P Naphtha is the same as 'Coleman lantern fuel" - otherwise known as "white gas" ah... "penetrating oil. NOW it makes sense. You aren't BURNING it, you're spraying it.

Probably done by one of those "Nationally Known Shops" like AAMCO (where's the "sarcasm" emoticon when you REALLY NEED IT? )

Schucks (Checker) whatever they are called - usually have it Show (purple? might be red?) at the site of the leak. beats the old fashioned way with the flame leak detector

Well - toxic... er... no, it's not in the conventional sense. it's a mighty powerful degreaser and displaces air so don't get any in a sealed room or it will suffocate you (tends to freeze skin too - but not NEARLY as much as the spray cans of "quik-freeze" that I have for testing electronics.) But not toxic per se. NONE OF THEM ARE (unless you would be stupid enough to try to drink it - even at that it's STILL not "poisonous" but the "effects" wouldn't be pleasant - it's still a refrigerant) Don't get it in a fire, though, because it WILL produce toxic gases when burnt (some fluorine-cyanide products IIRC) The HCFC refrigerants aren't nearly as environmentally "sensitive" as straight CFCs. The "ozone depletion" potential is 100 or so X less. There are only a limited number of states that control HCFC releases. Since I CAN'T collect it, it has to go somewhere if the system gets opened (and system evacuation is sort of expensive - beats me WHY though - it supplies a potential source of re-usable refrigerant to the "collector")

as long as you had "pressure" in the system it wasn't "open". Of course, unless you stop the leak, you will just keep adding more 134 (well...duh) The only reason to remove the existing 134 from the system is ... I can't think of any - you can just discharge it into the atmosphere. (don't want to do that with 12 but unless you are a repair technician, I doubt that they will catch you anyway)

out here in "no rust land" 10 years is just getting started.

if you open it to replace the o-ring or whatever, you MUST (no choice) vacuum the system before refilling. (Trust me on this) IF you don't it won't work "right" - the air will reduce the operation by probably 50% or more. It changes the "condensation" characteristics of the refrigerant so it might not "liquefy" in the condenser depending on how much "air" is in it

oh well - I guess I get to go buy a 3/8 torque wrench. 20 is down at the lower limit of my 1/2 Something else to get from harborfreight - should have known this yesterday - I was there curiosity question - the pic arrow notation says "front side" - FRONT OF ENGINE? ("side" doesn't mean the same to me, anyway)

Just buy from a "name brand" manufacturer. (Exide, Sears, whatever - the ones with the "better" warranty) The gel batteries are "better" but I don't know if they are that much better for "normal" use. Life is longer, though because of the construction differences As to wally World - I go there for OIL (a spec is a spec is a spcc - it's all made to a spec (I don't know who bottles their oil - I buy by weight and spec) and their normal prices on run of the mill air/oil filters (like Fram) are what most of the auto parts stores sell at "sale" prices. otherwise - maybe cat litter is about all I get there. it would be "different" if I lived close to one - it's about 7 miles away.

1 of 2 ways - put power directly to the terminals (you bypass the clutch controls - if the system is "empty" you don't want to run it for very long or it will burn out the compressor) - you will also hear is distinct "CLICK!" when it engages and if you have the belt off, you can turn the pulley and the compressor clutch end will turn, too alternate way, resistance test - test across the clutch terminals with the wires disconnected. (Don't know what "the right resistance" is, though) oh, and R134 is "HCFC" - still a "freon" just with "hydrogen- chloro-fluro-carbon" IF you have an empty system, you need to take out the "air" (with a vacuum pump) and then put in new R134 (autozone used to have the systems for "rent" - vac pump to evacuate the system plus the gauges to "check it")

CEL "knock sensor code" - How do I fix it?

battery? Whatever fits. Buy what has the best warranty for the price (believe it or not Wally World isn't too bad for battery in both price and warranty)

send me a PM - I don't want to disclose my "secret place JY" in the clear. I think they had a leg 95 wagon but I might be wrong. their parts tend to be a bit nasty, though

I hope you anodized or used alodine on the aluminum parts or that pretty blue paint won't stick

not to mention that I CHECKED it thoroughly, too. I didn't SEE no evidence of no STEENKIN' (LEAKIN') HG. (but the "old" oil from where the cam seal had been leaking for who knows how long and BAKED onto the exhaust was evident) I'm none too happy about the possibility of the leak at the oil pump, though. I used pematex anaerobic all around the sealing face of the pump. Anything is possible, but after that run, it's pretty difficult with no oil usage. BTW - looks like I have one myself now. 2.2 phase 1. Needs a drivers front axle and a minor amount of TLC. I know where there are 2 JY vehicles (maybe 3) so I can find parts BTW - pair o' NIMNOES is a better assessment.

The flat steel gasket seemed to seal well when I put it in (no sealant additional whatever) You might try the anaerobic permatex - it is supposed to bridge up to .010 gaps (just let it sit for a couple of hours before refilling the coolant) it will be a bit difficult to take off later, though. IF I wanted to do it that way, I would coat both sides of the steel gasket with a thin layer and bolt it down - that would probably help with later disassembly

Hmm.. no wonder I couldn't find it. The other end of the engine... Hmmm...

Funny thing about oil is that it is produced to a spec. The MINIMAL differences between oils are due to some obscure additives that a particular manufacturer might add to address some particular issue they may have had in qualification to that spec. I buy oil based on the spec listed on the bottle. it's a good idea not to mix manufacturers for HI PERFORMANCE (meaning highly loaded, hi revving - like the turbo) use, but for "run of the mill" ordinary cars, just keep the weights the same (who made it doesn't matter all that much and mixing won't hurt things) - if you filled it with 5-30 then put in more 5-30 etc. If you have a Sub with a leaky valve cover gasket, you'll be too busy adding a quart every 200 miles or so to worry about it. until you fix it

So it's apparently a phase 1 engine. You might want to leave the cam seals as-is unless they are easy to get out (the small "hook" from harbor freight worked well). Being honest - I only replaced the driver's side mostly because of the problem with driving in the "new" seal (a PVC 1-1/4 in non threaded pipe cap works well) and because it was visibly leaking. the pax side wasn't leaking. The o-rings (the 2 large dia. ones) do the front (drivers) and rear (pax) cam end cover. The rear is a bit difficult to get to (and I didn't do it either). IF you pull the driver side seal first, you can pull the cam end cover cap easily - if you drive the new seal on in place, it's a LOT MORE DIFFICULT to pull off. Since those are compression o-rings, they don't tend to leak anyway Remember to remove and reseal the oil pump. Those back screws seem to work loose - loctite them in (use red if you have it) permatex anaerobic seal works for sealing the pump itself back to the block. Do the front mainseal while you have the oil pump out. the "full kit" also supplies the blue o-ring to seal the oil pressure outlet between the pump and the block. Porc73 noted that some oil pumps might have a plastic rear plate - if it does, get a replacement. He said the plastic doesn't hold up and I'm not about to worry about it (the one I was fixing was steel anyway).

Depending - on the IMP they stopped the Phase 1 2.2 at the end of FEB and started the Phase 2 2.2 in March. Literally a "line change" - the only "real" difference is whether the tensioner pulley can be bought "separately" or it needs to be bought as a "unit" (the "tensioner hydraulic unit" doesn't go bad usually) If you want a pulley kit, you need to know which engine (and unless you want to take it apart, you need to know the month to know which engine you have) that and the Phase 2 is an interference engine - which is "nice" to know (unless you break a timing belt) it's apparent on sight - either it's the single bolt tensioner (phase 2), or the 2 bolt tensioner (phase 1) remember - he was asking about the e-bay kit (probably from importexperts) and will likely do it himself.

horn probs are usually with either the RELAY or the horn supply wire connection (maybe even the horn itself, but that's easy to check by just putting power directly to the horn input terminal. ) IF you have a friend and a multimeter, unplug the horn from the wire and check the voltage when someone pushes the horn button. Voltage but no sound - usually a bad ground at the horn Listen for the click of the relay, too. If the relay clicks but the horn doesn't sound, then try the horn itself with the direct power (unless you did that first) No voltage, then it's back upstream of the horn - test the relay if you can (or just put in a spare and see if it works). Still no joy - Next try to see which wire is the line to the horn button. Disconnect the battery and do a resistance test with the horn button held down and see if there's continuity. (or leave the battery hooked up and use a continuity light to check the circuit from the battery to the wire that connects to the horn button. Open circuit and you might have an "open" at the horn button. The horn circuit is about as simple a relay circuit as there is. Sequential circuit trace backwards until you find the open (I would tend to suspect either the relay or a bad ground - RARELY a bad horn) the button GROUNDS the output coil of the horn relay the relay switches to provide power to the horn when the input circuit grounds (VERY low amperage circuit) the horn sounds because power is supplied to the horn input terminal (moderate amperage circuit)

Or... look at the plate on the body just above the door sill at the back of the driver door (it's called the B pillar) - the manufacture date is right there - month and year. You need to get down low to see it, though, and might need a flashlight

shows what SHE knows - they ALL add detergents, just in varying amounts. Chevron costs more because they advertise more. I get my most of my gas from Costco anyway (up here, it all comes from the same tank farm near Renton - it's the "end of the pipeline". They drive the tankers in, fill them up (out of the same tanks) and deliver it)

All I know about is 97 Impreza - FOUR nuts on the shafts. Use a 5/16 DEEP socket (pref 1/4 drive with a screwdriver handle) to get at them. I had to remove the inside body panel to get at everything (not difficult, just a little time consuming - maybe 10 or 15 minutes) TAKE OFF THE WIRING QUICK DISCONNECT AT THE PLUG (makes life a lot easier - it's a "push the pin and pull the connector to disconnect" similar to the others elsewhere on the car rather than having the wiring "loose".) Depending, you may need to remove the plug from the old light and put it on the new light - single phillips screw. The lenses are literally "glued" to the body rear panel from the OUTSIDE with some sticky stuff resembling windshield sealant. Like they said - heat it to soften it, then push from the inside and it will release. On the Imp there was a knurled post on the "outside edge going into the plastic from the inside. You might need to pull the nut on it out, too - otherwise just push starting at the INSIDE edge and it will "lever" out of the attachment. Clean off the sealant with a putty knife (doesn't need to be clean, just level so the replacement sealant will fit "flat") Reassembly - IF you can get some windshield butyl rubber, you need about 30 inches of it or so. The caveat is that IF you use butyl, you likely will NOT be able to get it out later if you need to without a heat gun. Start at the bottom of the light and wrap it up and around the "hole" and push the ends together and snip it. use what you have left to make another bead above (not on top of - above so the sealant will be doubled across the TOP - where the RAIN will otherwise go. Doubling the thickness of the sealant will make it "difficult" to get it back together - doubling the WIDTH across the top won't. I was using 1/4 wide sealant so the top is 1/2 wide - 2 1/4 inch pieces side by side) Ease the assembly back into the holes, put on the nuts and loosely tighten all of them until they grab, then tighten them down in a circle about 1 turn at at time (yeah - it takes a little while, but it's easier than breaking the lens) You will know when it's tight - it won't tighten any more. - the sealant will spread as the nuts tighten and seal it all. Put the bulb sockets back in and connect the disconnect, then test it. Put the inside covers back on and "put a fork in it - you're done" too much information??

Dragon got 29.3 at 70 to 75 between Weed and Bakerfield If you go that slow in California, they'll run you down Then she turned on the AC. and it dropped to 25 60 gallons from Tacoma to PHX she kept bleeding air out of the tires to keep them at 34 techron - tricresyl phosphate detergent. Don't overdo it, though - 8 oz is enough for a 15 gallon tank