aircraft engineer

SQ - the problem with ethanol is that the fuel "energy content" isn't as high as "straight" gasoline - guess what - it's about 10% less. I have a gasbag 1980 Toyota pickem-up truck that runs on propane - same problem - the energy content is about 10% less. Of course, it would be NICE IF I just fixed the motor to running right again - I think it ate a valve. Just need to go find a nice 20R and replace it, too. :-\ Nice thing about propane conversions is that they need NONE of the pollution controls found on the "ordinary" fueled engines.

what's more interesting is that F-F-F's problem was with a SIDE TERMINAL system (the ones that "don't fail") (Chev S-10)

not likely - the only way the oil and coolant system get "mixed" is either "dump antifreeze in the oil" (which is sort of "too stupid to think about") or the coolant is leaking into the oil - probably HG (but not ABSOLUTELY - just the most likely suspect) It still will require a tear down to figure out exactly what failed not what you wanted to hear, but you thought about it anyway Remember - if you have a failure - it's better to have the oil into the coolant rather than coolant into the oil. Coolant running around in the oil system can ruin things "quickly" - you would be better off to park it and fix it rather than drive it

Could be a bad contact at the pump connection. IF you tested the connection at the wired end of the contact, you don't know what resistance you may have had in the connection itself. The PUMP might be just fine, but you have a CONNECTION problem between the fuel pump power wire and the fuel pump power input lug. Since it worked after you pulled the connection and reconnected it, I would suspect that is the problem.

Nope - MOM is from Clearfield. I worked in Deeetroit City (AMC engineering was there) I'm in a small town near Tacoma, they're both in PHX right now. I never made it to Kenosha - just heard stories about the building where pieces went in the upper floors of the building and cars came out the bottom (4 floors IIRC - top floor down assembly line)

whatever worked for you is OK

my Chilton book says 120 to 160 so I used 140 (with a torque wrench and a 32mm 6-point impact socket) too much aircraft in me - I ALWAYS USE A TORQUE WRENCH now whether or not it's "accurate'...

careful cleaning is all I can suggest - try a rag in the hole to pick up the crud when you swing the file around the edge. about 45 degrees to the edge of the housing should work. Don't go down past bare metal if you can avoid it. It's not difficult but it will take a bit of time. you still need to clean everything afterwards anyway. try not to take the grease out of the bearing you want to just hold the file and work it in a circle - not back and forth. you just want to take off the burr, not file the surface

not a whole lot. That pass thru the filter might have been the last before shutting down, but the first pass thru the filter depends on how fast the oil gets up to temp (thins out) so it is likely more than "one pass" thru the engine BTW - One of the reasons I tend to not worry too much about filter brand is that IF they are changed eveny 4000 or so, they don't matter all that much. Years ago when engines were "open" the crud that came in thru the breather plus the breakdown of the fuel was what made oil "dirty" - remember that oil never wears out - it just gets dirty and the abrasive content in that dirt is what causes engine wear. Change oil more often and wear goes down. The SAE filter test sets "minimums" for sure, but the intent isn't to run the filter to a "loaded" condition and determine "max operating life" anyway. The filter just picks up the macro chunks anyway - down to 20 microns

Inside or outside seal? Axle side or nut side? Try some scotchbrite and elbow grease. The problem is at the lip where the seal starts in - sort of a corrosion "burr". That has to go. you could also try a small rat-tail file and drag it around on the edge to clean up the edge. Clean well if you take something off the edge and lube the seal outside edges before driving the seal in. Dirt is the bearing's major enemy. Did you take the housing OFF the car or is it still on? If "off" and you can, take the bearing back out before cleaning the corrosion. Otherwise, you can try some solvent to flush the opening (and of course, you would need to re-lube the bearing) 1st class PITA problem

according to the MSDS description, it's a terpene and is also an intense degreaser. At the dosage of 2oz per quart it would take a bit more than 1/2 cup for a engine. (citrus derivative - one of the common names is "Citrusafe") I would have never thought of adding it to a motor, though. It will modify the oil number a bit (it's "dilution") so your 5w-30 might wind up being 5w-28 (yeah, the first number doesn't change a whole lot even if diluted, what changes is the thickening effect at temperature) google "citusafe" and you can see the "home" uses of the product.

I'd use some other filter if they had the grit end. It's about the only thing I like about them (yeah, I've looked at the cut-ups) - but for 3000 miles and regular changes, they seem to be ok. Since the worst part is when the engine starts and the cold UNFILTERED oil goes into bypass, it's kind of a moot point anyway.

Uhhh - the "slant 6" was a CHRYSLER product (I worked there, too). AMC's engine was "conventional" and actually aside from the sheet metal, about the only thing they "made" - steering - GM, trans Ford, radiator Harrison, etc. The engine actually started out as an "F head" - OH intake, FH exhaust (in the block - like "older" Jeeps). They went "conventional" when the pollution laws made them. The other "buy it" company was International - never could figure out exactly what you had until you tool it off and compared it with something else. Be happy Sub isn't a "mix-n-match". Pacer wasn't all bad - the unequal door lengths was a good idea for rear seat access. The amount of glass, though, produced an effect in direct sunlight of a "convection oven". Definitely not a car for So California

Nah - I got the topper to these. I was in powertrain engineering at AMC ("rambler, gremlin, matador...") back in the early 70s and got a "strange" request from customer service to tell them where the fuel filter was on (as I remember) a 68 Rambler Wagon. So off to the files, pull the drawing(s) and see that there were "2" possible locations, either 1 in the axle hump or in the engine compartment in front of the carb. Called the dealer. yup, there's one right there in the engine compartment but when we take it off, there's no fuel gets out. Tell them about the other one. "OH, but those went away when you put the filter in the engine compartment"... but we'll check. Yup. HAD 2 FILTERS - 1 fully clogged (which they replaced with a piece of straight pipe). Now the rest of the story - it seems that they had assembled about 8 cars in Kenosha with "both" filters (of course, never bothering to TELL anyone...) I often wonder what happened to the other 7... and we wonder why 'Murcan Motors cars are considered the scum of the earth...

there is a brute force way to clean out the sumps - you add 1/2 quart of "butyl cellosolve" motor flush (beats me what the brand name would be - I have a OLD can of MOPAR - yeah, that old, for "just in case use") You start it and let it IDLE!! IDLE!!! JUST IDLE!!! DON'T DRIVE IT !! for about 15 minutes then DRAIN IT ALL, LET IT SIT OPEN FOR 20 MINUTES OR SO TO GET AS MUCH OUT AS POSSIBLE then change the oil and the filter - everything. The degunker is about as powerful a detergent as there is. The sloshing will even clean gunk on the walls of the block BUT IT WILL KILL LUBRICATION ENOUGH THAT DRIVING WILL KILL THE BEARINGS - THAT'S WHY IDLE ONLY!! Some even advocate a second oil change right after the first one to get it all out. Your choice - if you let it sit enough to drain almost all of it out it won't matter. (~$14 of oil...)

Well... if you wanted just a 1/2 qt drain and were willing to pull off the oil filter, dump it out and put it back - that would work. Those face sealing rings are "tough" - at least tough enuf to take off/on one time. Just check for "nicks" and don't damage it when removing and it will be OK to re-use That's the best part about the grit end Frams - easy OFF easy ON

"Spit happens" My reaction initially was "rod bearing going". You will likely find some metal particles in the drain oil if you check it. That will be absolute confirmation "something" down there in the bottom end is giving it up. <find another engine or fix that one - it's not long for this world. You just make later repairs worse by driving it more>

That's it in a nut shell. I found that holding the crowfoot on the closest to vertical of the 5 spokes with the crowfoot down on the bottom and the socket wrench end about 90 degrees worked well. TRY to get a crowfoot that fits SNUG on the spoke (remember, they taper outward toward the sprocket and farther out for the "holding point" is better) - it will work better that way. I guess it's a little hard to describe but once you try it you'll see what I mean and how easy it really is to hold the sprocket You "could" do it with a long extension in the crowfoot, but the socket will get in the way. It's not the "usual" use of a crowfoot. I wish I had taken pictures...

holding the cam sprocket - here's what I did - with a crow foot wrench about the width of the sprocket spoke, put the crowfoot on whatever longer socket handle you have so the crowfoot is like this -------!_! the socket square would be at the bottom pf the "U" in that attempt at a picture the wide part of the spoke goes into the U of the crowfoot. Now put the "other" socket for the bolt on (another handle) and hold the crowfoot in place to stop the sprocket from turning. Use the farthest outward from the sprocket hub to get maximum holding power (that's kust inside the sprocket itself - right where the spokes "start" ON THE OUTSIDE OF THE "WHEEL" one hand holds and turns the socket, the other holds the wrench with the crowfoot. IT COMES UNDONE EASILY without damage to the BELT because there is no real torque transmitted thru the belt - it is ALL stopped by the crowfoot. Une the same procedure to tighten - I used a torque wrench to tighten the bolt NO NEED FOR THE SPECIAL TOOL - just use the spokes in the cam sprocket as a point to put the crowfoot. I think it was 17mm or so (but just measure it or use the "try one until it fits" method)

No need to drain the oil. It's all "dry" up there and you aren't going into the "system" anyway. I didn't do the o-rings because they are not a "moving" part - once compressed, they just sit there. Either they leak from the get go or not - and barring anything to MAKE them leak, they won't. There's no pressure behind them to cause a leak. IF you take it apart, then you would replace them - it's easier if you take off the driver's side cam tower for access, but aside from that, I wouldn't do the o-ring. The seals are a "moving part" (the cam) and over time will wear out. A little lube helps with the reassembly (on the inside of the seals to help slide over the cam bearing face) so you don't chance tearing the face a little when sliding them over the cam end. just used some engine oil

The "true" way to know if it is indeed the cam seal is to look at the rubber "dust seal" behind the cam rear belt cover. If it's showing oil, the cam seal is leaking. The one I did (driver side) was swelled from oil contact so it just got reinstalled - it's only a "dust seal' anyway (when you see that swollen "gasket" the cam seal is obviously a "leaker"). You might have an easier time if you either marked the belt before you took it out (to re use it) or just replaced it since you WILL remove it to do the work. It's a full "front of the engine teardown" - including removing the cam sprockets to get at the cam seals. Might as well do all the seals at the same time (which means taking off the oil pump for "ease" of doing it) and could even consider another set of valve cover gaskets. Try the crowfoot wrench trick I "discovered" to hold the sprocket in place if you want to reuse the timing belt - it wouldn't take kindly to being used to hold the sprocket while loosening the bolt. Go get a paint pen to mark the belt and use a ruler to make the line straight if you try to reuse it.

maybe I could for a Chev powerslide or Chry 727 but not for a Sub. I know NOTHING... (Sgt Schultz mode ) I SAID OLD 'MURCAN STUFF!! the ones I used to work on when I was working on some of that stuff was before you were even THOUGHT OF

do a flush and it will likely shift OK. I take it you dropped the pan and cleaned the screen? sounds like some crud in the shifter system. in old 'Murcun stuff that used to be the governor crudded up

All the turbos I've ever seen are "air cooled" with supply line from oil pressure and a gravity return pipe to the sump. Oil like that is almost for sure a head gasket issue (either that or someone got a little confused and dumped oil into the radiator ) (I'm not familiar with Sub turbos but I AM with diesel stuff) Sub turbo is oil/water cooled?

just remember - if you just use it for air pressure, you will need to keep checking the master cyl and keep it full - or start all over again.