aircraft engineer

that 10 year old recall was from 1999 and Sub has no indication that it was ever done on this car.

Redmond is a bit far for us (closer to Tacoma, near Puyallup) I have the JY cylinder out and there are NO stamped codes on the lock cyl (anywhere) - and I know what it should look like - it was what was on my Toyota pick-em-up when I had to pull the cyl to get a new ignition key. Pulled pax side out of the JY car - NUTTIN' THERE.

what you'll generally find is that the engine uses the same amount of fuel (FI, of course) no matter what the exhaust is doing unless it's REALLY stopped up. You might get better POWER but no real increase in fuel economy. In the old days, we used to "tune" exhausts to a resonance frequency to attain max power, but "today" it doesn't seem to matter much

in firefox go to "tools", "add ons" then click "get extensions". Search the extensions for "image zoom", find it and install it. You now have the capability to zoom images in firefox by holding the mouse button (your choice which one - it's in "options") and zoom with the scroll wheel. No image zoom for IE (in fact, nothing much for IE anyway, which is why I use firefox - brain dead IE and their "ACTIVE X" BS) IF you don't have firefox, can't help you. it's my "browser of choice unless I AM FORCED TO USE IE

About $4000 too high (and that's with everything else perfect, too) Maybe it's worth $5500 TOPS (and I don't CARE what the books say) Of course, car dealers are known to try to get as much as they possibly can...

extended warranty is only a money maker for the agency. "$$ in" (by YOU) usually doesn't = "return" (but, of course, if it did they wouldn't make money) I keep getting (and trashing) blurbs from some outfit trying to sell me one on my Taurus. Think they'll ever get the message that I don't WANT it? I'm thinking that an obscene response might get them to stop wasting their money.

Yeah - notice that she mentions ME in the work order. Oh well, more work to do and then get her on her way down to Phoenix. I guess I'll figure out how to PUT IT IN WHEN I TAKE OUT THE ONE AT THE JY

I'll guess - since I can't see the metal itself and only the pictures (which I can blow up about 400%). Looks like a brittle fracture - probably a latent crack in the plate and just went out all at once. Was that a rebuilt clutch or a new one? Rebuilts might have been subjected to a lot of heat and taken the temper out of the disk as well. I'd try to see if they will replace it since it looks like a manufacturing defect from what you showed in the pix No evidence of hardly any wear (and unless you sprayed it, it sure looks clean) Of course, you might not WANT a replacement from them...

You guys sure about the EJ22 interference? I thought all of the 2.2s were non-interference and only the 2.5 was interference.

good luck finding them in a yard - they seem to go F A S T!!

I was looking at the 97 Impreza the sister has and noticed that the throttle linkage has an extra spot for another cable. I think it's where the cruise would have gone. Years ago I had an aftermarket cruise (Sears I seem to remember - I think I even have one of them still in the box) that used glued on magnets as the sender units for the speed pickup. it was simple enough - electronic box, vacuum line to the control servo, power, brake light switch disconnect (vacuum relief, I seem to remember), speed pulser unit. With a front wheel drive, it would have needed 2 or 4 magnets on the axle or inner CV hub to make enough pulses to drive slowly on the cruise. (It's great for avoiding tickets on the road where I live and they seem to be out there at regular intervals) She didn't want me to install it - she doesn't LIKE cruise. I PREFER it myself.

I can answer the wheel question - your only problem will be with the max tire size. The 15 inch wheels will fit with no problem but at least on the 1997 the "max" tire size (to use with chains) is 195-60/15. The car is fitted with 205-60/15 so chains aren't exactly an "option" (not even cable chains) (I've got a set of polished aluminum 15" 6 spoke American Racing wheels that were on an Impreza if you are interested - with the hub rings - see below for explanation) The lug spacing pattern is 110 mm bolt circle, 5 lugs 12x1.25mm lug nuts there are numerous cars that use the pattern (Chrysler mid 90/s cars and many of the "short" caravans for sure) Watch out for some wheels, though - you need a "hub centric ring" to make it fit the hubs on the axles (without it saying that mounting is "difficult" is being kind)

<going back off subject> - every FIAT I ever had or dealt with was an unmitigated DISASTER. (but they were old, too) Anyway - I generally use aftermarket brake parts (because of cost) I've found that pads seem to come in 3 grades "cheap" (as in "organic" (30,000 miles or so), "semi-met" (45,000 or so) and "ceramic" (65,000 or so) . (miles depending on specific "usage") The longer life pads eat the rotors more than the cheaper ones (particularly semi-met) and ceramic pads rotors seem to stay "smoother" (but also seem to create a lot of "dust" (mostly metal, I guess)

when Sis bought Dragon she took it to Puyallup Subaru for a free "evaluation". They came back with "head gaskets" (and we also do all of these "other" little things at the same time - timing belt, water pump, etc for "only" $1800. PLUS diag time to determine which rear wheel bearing was howling. My fine tuned ear <sarcasm off> did that in 3 miles (would have been even LESS time if I had been able to find the stethoscope) Didn't NEED the head gasket, _I_ did the mechanicals on the car, parts were $240 or so (including the JY rear hub/housing which I had to disassemble and swap the drum brake onto). Plus all the help I got HERE <bowing in appreciation> Labor rate is $100/hour. When she went back to get some other things, they remembered the car and noted that it didn't smoke like it was on fire any more.

FIAT - dirty word - go wash your mouth out with soap. The only thing WORSE than a FIAT was a YUGO (which is ironic, since FIAT SOLD the tooling for the FIAT lock stock and barrel to Belgrade) - a Yugoslavian Fiat. F I A T = fix it again tony YUGO - "you go but not far" <- running yugo - the horse pulling it died BTW - for those who don't know (or care) FIAT is Fabricazione Italieni Automobili Torino (my spelling is probably off but it means "The Italian automobile factory in Turin" - more or less.)

delta camshafts has a website http://www.deltacam.com/ and a Tacoma phone number (I don't work there, I just dealt with them earlier in the week)

this says gray iron is usual for rotors http://www.eng-tips.com/viewthread.cfm?qid=113925&page=1 The SAE report a few lines down describes gray iron, too BTW - if you had 1% carbon, it would tend to be rather brittle. It gets "stronger" but very brittle. "Ordinary" steel is .1 % carbon (that's SAE 1010 - those last 2 numbers tell you what the carbon is by tenths of a percent carbon - so, SAE 1020 is .2 %) Cast iron is a lot easier to machine and the turnings come off as "granules" rather than long threads - like steel machines

But you can go out in winter and feed it snow. If you don't feed an AWD Sub snow it feels unloved and gets upset. I have to go to the mountains to get to snow here (boo-hoo - rain is a lot easier to SHOVEL!!)

not raining here TODAY, you mean... (this is warshington - if you don't like the weather wait 5 minutes and it will change )

I have an Impreza in a JY close to me so I can get the door handle. I can't find any info on what years fit what years, though. The pax door cylinder carries the master code, so I could make a key from that one once I take it out thanks, though - if I can't find parts, I will get back to you.

the point was that with the belt installed to the cam sprocket timing marks simultaneously with the crank timing mark you CANNOT be out of time. Once that relationship is established, even if you were to take out the tensioner while holding the belt to the sprocket, timing will NOT be affected The sprocket marks show if marked clearly and THEY are the critical marks, not the notch on the timing belt cover (it's secondary) You only need the notches for timing IF the belt is being re-installed and doesn't have readable marks (and which you SHOULD mark before removal anyway) That's what the lines on the belt DO - they make it an easy, perfect time installation.

yeah... sure - poor quality... YOU HAVE ANY IDEA WHERE THEY ARE MADE? They ALL come from China. (Even Subaru outsources that kind of stuff and lots more to CHINA) CAST IRON IS CAST IRON and the ONLY things that would vary are the POSSIBILITY of run-out and the hub holes. Either it FITS or it DOESN'T so don't fall for the "more expensive is better" or "only the manufacturer knows how to make them right" BS You want to go buy OEM pads as well or would Raybestos ceramic pads pass your muster? Now while most of the equipment I work on is "American", I go to Joe's (local supplier) for rotors (used to anyway - haven't done brakes for a while) AND INSTALL THEM. I'd rather put on "new" rotors for $8 more than turning the old ones (cleaner, too). Necessarily, I trust them with my life and have no reservations about "quality" (Yeah, it's a place where I think there is no difference whatever and I've had no issues with any rotors - PADS, yes, differing quality levels both in terms of service life and stopping power so I buy mid to high range QUALITY but not rotors)

which one nip - the errant box or the broken door handle? The box has a couple of attachment loops cast into the plastic ends, so I guess it was intended to be mounted instead of being a trip hazard

just remember that at full load you might not have quite enough belt oomph to make it go 'round. That's 2.4kw draw at 200 amps and allowing for some losses in the system, it's about 3.5hp (3.22 pure conversion)

yeah - I got a bunch of zips and will fix it this weekend