1997reduxe

The term "JDM" means Japanese Domestic Motor, right? This is merely a term for a whole slew of used motors coming from Japan, not a particular brand name... So there are a whole lot of these companies out there reselling engines, probably a lot of bad ones, correct? These would be different than Jasper motors though. Samneric, here's a shop I found here in Houston, may be less shipping for you, can't tell: http://www.usedjapanmotors.com/ Dan

Hmm, good prices for good suggestions. Still, Michelin HydroEdge are the best tires ever made. And good in snow too. 90,000 wear promised. And I took their X-Ones, which were my previous "best tires ever made," (they used to be 80,000 wear,) to probably 120000+ miles. Yes, metal was showing through, but they still ran and ran, and ran.

And just as a point of interest in my first research I did today looking around at the H6 engines, I notice that they went to a timing chain vs belt? After all those years of belt experience? That's a pretty amazing change. But then I'm obviously way behind the times. Gonna have to look into that. Dan

yeah I just thought I'd throw that out there about trans anti-maintenance. To tell the truth after I said it I thought how that kind of philosophy probably was bigger in the old days when cars, particularly American ones, often didn't make it to, or much more than 100k. (The 80s, K-cars etc.) (Tho I did think that I heard it on this forum once or twice.) But I have to say in my experience with Legacys, if you buy one or are looking to, and they possibly didn't change the fluid recently, the fluid is clear or pink, not burnt, and no major leaks, then you are probably very good for a long long time. My 97 I think I got the flush when I bought it, it eventually had a small leak, and when it would start slipping I'd fill it a little, and it went like that till I sold it at like 325k, which again, was a mistake. And BTW, SUBARU3, sent you a PM about a good Texan source for Sube work, though down here towards Houston, FYI.

You are out in the middle of nowhere. I'll bet it's beautiful though. Always wanted to go to Montana. They have those KM2s if that's what you're going with at Tirerack for 576 bucks plus 90 shipping. I guess the problem for you is going to be finding an aggressive enough pattern for your size tire. Personally I'd try to find something with 4 steel belts, but that may be a fantasy. On tirerack they also have the Duelers and T/A KOs for about 130 each. But they're more on-road than off. If you really wanted to get crazy you could try these, but I don't think they make em small enough, at least with 15 inch wheels, you'd have to go to 16 inch: http://www.quadratec.com/products/92607_10XX_PG.htm (And they're on ebay too) Miata tire calculator just in case you haven't seen: http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html

that is so great. i am getting ready to replace my differential AND my valve cover gaskets. You wouldn't by some chance need to also do a valve adjustment while you were in there, would you?

GD, I was just wondering, so what's up with the EJ252? Was there some particular problem with them? Thanks again. Dan

and if you do decide to check out the alternator, you can take it to autozone, (don't know about o'reilly or other parts places) and they'll test it for free. Has to be off the car though. It may not test bad since you said you only had problem when hot. In case you do have to replace it: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=133324

FujiBond? I swear I learn something new every day on this site. So you used the grey I'm assuming? Jus wondrin...

Yeah, believe me, living here in Houston with all the giant trucks etc you get a real taste of the American need to continue rocking on with gas guzzling. I can't understand it, though it seems to just be a pride thing, like no disaster or possible eco-crash will deter us from 12 miles per gallon. I did have a friend who drove every day 50 miles to work downtown and in his Prius used about one gallon each way. Now that is smart. Thanks again John. Good public transit article: http://usnews.msnbc.msn.com/_news/2012/06/04/12051097-public-transit-ridership-rising-sharply-advocacy-group-reports?lite

Thanks. Anybody have opinions on the 6 cylinder engines? I've seen mention of the H6 on here, but have no idea as I've been teminally locked in the 90s...

Just wanted to troll for results on this if I could. My bro and I are longtime fans of the EJ22, but are looking at "branching out" into the later Legacys. Like post-2000 body style. Are any of the later Sube engines anywhere as reliable as the EJ22? Thanks for any ideas. Dan

one thing you might also consider is the alternator might be going bad? thus when it heats up it short out? i know when i've had a bad one it can cause all kinds of problems, like the temp guage won't work properly or other dash instruments.

And I forgot to ask, when you're doing the drain and fill you're dropping the pan and cleaning off residue (and is there a screen to clean?) Or just draining and filling? I know I've heard some people who are of the impression that if a trans has like over 200k on it and it's running good, don't disturb it at all, other than adding fluid if necessary. Dan

subscribing this post. that's the first time i've ever heard of the loose pump plate blowing out the seals. thanks. (and i concur on the brown seals. i used that imports/ebay black seals on my 97 last time, but this time i used real sube brown ones, and they were much nicer.)

i had that off and on for a while. i thought it might have been a piece of dirt running through, and they told me it was an injector at autozone (there was a check engine code) but it took care of itself. have you changed gas filter lately?

yeah, but the sheer wonder of it... incredible.

yeah, where's it leaking the oil? can yu see any drips or pools if you park it on clean pavement? (hard to find) you're sure it's burning it out the tailpipe? I have a 95 that just needed a cam seal along with timing belt kit relacement etc. It also has some small leak still, trying to trace that one down, but when it the cam seal went it was like it was burning oil, but it was burning off the exhaust. prob about how much you're talking too. i just didn't drive it till i got it fixed. now very happy.

Can I ask about the "flush" method of changing the fluid vs. just draining and refilling? I had a mechanic once who had that flush machine and he would use like 12 or 13 quarts of trans oil to do it. And any best kind of recommended fluid? Thanks again. Dan

if you just scroll down a little you can see where there's the post about wheel bearing practice to see if it's the kind of thing you'd like to attempt. lotta work though.

Yeah well what you meant was that you found a listing of that year on a site, and they said the car would be offered either as a 2wd or 4wd, right? Or you actually were told it is in 2wd? I would really try also to get any info you could get from the owner, maint. records, that kind of thing. It can reveal a lot about what you need to concern yourself with immediately as far as maint. needs. Or find out who did the work on the car, they would know its history. And when you choose a mechanic be sure to get your own copy of haynes or chilton's manual (along with this site) and evaluate the maint requirements yourself against what they say to get done. I used to have a mechanic do what he thought was the proper maint, but realized after a while he wasn't necessarily aware of all the proper things Suby... At 90,000 miles, that car would likely not only get you through school, but your first job as well. My old gf had a 95 with about 90k on it when I met her, I learned all my first Suby ignorance/chops from that car, and had she and her family had listened to me after we broke up (regarding the car) it would still be running, 12 years later. But it went to 300k. Where in PA, btw? You may get some good recommendations for shops on here. I used to live in Philly/Pottstown/Berks area. I know one great guy there.

Remember, just calling around for random quotes, you can sometimes find better recommendations and prices through searching for members in your area.

Also, the USMB member mtsmiths is from HI: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/member.php?u=903

Hmmm. I am going up Austin soon to get a used differential for my 95 legacy wagon. I will be watching this for reports of success esp. in the urethane type bushings, as I'm not really having knocking probs but since the diff. would be out I might was well pack it, inserts etc... But would this pretty much be the same procedure for a 95? And if you were replacing diff., are there any other parts worth checking on or replacing? Thanks a lot. Dan

wow that is so great! i couldn't imagine how there was such a price difference. thanks!