1997reduxe

this is of interest to me too all my gears work but its kinda hard to get them into gear you have to go step by step between gears. i dont know if this is normal or its meant to drive slowly, which it does well enough.

look on rockauto (i know, i know) try to get a hsn high saturated nitrile belt theyre the best contitech pro, gates or aisin ) which is original manufacturer. or the beck arnley one there are much better. by him saying he changed the two seals on one side that would mean front and back of one camshaft? that doiesnt make sense maybe he meant front. thats what worries me you have to find someone who knows i wish some of my old posts hadnt disappeared here there used to be big old discussions of best timing kit sets seals etc.

well the thing i just mentioned the parts stores but a lot of the rebuilds are subaru refurbished. thats generally what i go for if i can find them. most of the companies selling them are too cheap to actually make new ones i think. i remember when i had one of my older wagons i got powerstop rotors and when i researched them they were actually the rotors they used in like corvettes and mustangs now.and i think the sube 4 rotors cost 120? the one thing i like too about the total rebuild idea is that when people try to piece it together like i used to, the shop says replace one caliper cause it's frozen, well thats all they do, whereas i like to get new rubber lines at the caliper too, and the one great benefit is you replace all the brake fluid. and some of those caipers man are they rusty i mean the rust and dirt just flakes off when you take it apart. half the time what could have been a one or two hour job turns into an al day affair because a bolt breaks off. some of the kits come with hardware, some dont. some are loaded with pads already but i like to get a nice set of ceramic or two. that way really you probably never have to change the brakes again something else will go on the car before then. ive just had terrible accidents when i was young and brakes are nothing to fool around with.

he repaced one seal? i looked back a the maintenance records from mine and when the water pump went they replaced belt water pump thermostat and one puley. who does that? the biggest concern is whether they used modern brown seas or not. you can get even continental belts for like 25 bucks or a whole aisin kit for 220. ike in the case of mine the benefit is the new belt will go for say 75000 comfotably, but seeing as now i find i have pulleys etc on there that have 145K on them, the problem is the belt will go 75K

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hmmm looking it up it seems it was an option for the L wagon and this the first year for the outback. thanks for the pointer. http://www.cars101.com/subaru_legacy_archive95_99.html

the gas filter is inline of the gas line inside the hood i forget where i think its toward the rear on the wall? someone here can verify or look at chiltons manual. its a little canister with line in and out. in my experience and reading here what happens (i used to be the maintenance worst, i blamed it on the alcohol, not now ) is that the filter fills up and up with dirt if you never changed it maybe someone owned it before and they didnt either? so its full of ten twenty years of dirt? well these cars can limp along on nothing, little voltage, battery that wouldnt run a flashlight, little gas, till that one last piece of dirt from the tank fills the last speck hole. i would change it regardless.

sometimes you dont realize how much something bothers you till its gone. this reminds me of the last 99 outback i had it had been in some type of wreck it wasnt ever really clear and i kinda figured the guy selling it either didnt want to remember it or didnt want to say. but it had hit a curb hard to the side rear right wheel. so its going through tires in about a week well especially the right rear. i take it to place after place one alignment place wants to attach chains and bend the frame. and im thinking uh im going to take it to this other frame body and alignment place in clear lake. a more professional thing. so i take it there and the guy who runs it, lots of years of experience, comes out to look at it in the lot, doesnt even put it on a lift or hardly get under it, just looks and says: "Oh i know what it is, its probably your spindle is bent." i had never even heard of a spindle i dont think, didnt know they had one, but he was right. thats one of the things about these cars ive noticed, i think they engineered layers of failure into them in many parts, water pumps, etc, to protect them. why they made the interference engine ever i cant understand. i guess they were just too reliable.

would that device work on a 95?

its just my two cents but calipers have come down so much in price now that especially on twenty year old cars (like the one i just bought) one of the first items i will get is a rotor and caliper set. and nice pads. theyre really pretty cheap now its amazing its not worth playing around with them and they look a lot better too. esp in a cold climate area.

i would say that was a case of you were very lucky her bumper met yours just right like riding up on top of it mostly. 40 is pretty high speed. it reminds me of a (later) very scary one i had once where i went to a bar and the landscapers were just finishing up mowing the yard around the place. when i left the metal pole gate to the place hadnt been fastened, so by weird coincidence it had swung right out toward my then position backing into it. it came right into the rear window kind of riding up over the body there. a few feet further and more to one side and, well you know. but damn it made a lot of noise.

i dont know if your car hasthis hose but i had i think a 98 legacy that i hadnt driven much for a while i was on unemployment, and the second day i drove a long ways to a new job it overheated in the morning. AAA towed it to my local shop and they said it was the radiator, but i literally drove it across the street after they replaced it for 300 bucks and it was already overheating again. it was the short l-shape hose right in the center front of the engine, maybe lower center i forget. most people dont know its there till it deteriorates.

is it possible to wire up fog lights to a 95 that never had them? i know this sounds like im just jumping in on this topic to chime in but the guy who owned my new 95 actually replaced the front with a outback bumper section etc, and it has the spots for the foglights. im wondering if you can wire them to an accessory position or fuse? something like that. the one other nice thing about this car is he did replace the headlights with better ones and the lenses believe it or not for a 95 arent bad so there is actual light leading the way.

btw to just throw out ideas you have to have them first.

thanks for all the replies. well i seem to have solved it i got four brand new continental procontacts, you wont believe the deals they have here, for 350 mounted and balanced and old tires taken away, and no tax. i think they can probably sell the old ones so that was in lieu of a tip. theyre a little small esp compared to the old knobby beasts, but i mainly wanted to get the old ones off the moaned so much and i didnt want to damage the trans any more than already had been if it had. but all looks good oh my god does it drive 100 percent better. i neer had continentals i was always a michelin man the old x-ones and then hydroedges with the long long warranty and then usually longer than that. but continentals nice. it even steers a lot lighter just beautiful. now to get ready for the timing belt setup. again, thanks so much for the replies its nice to be home.

i had them where they ran with those clicks for years but i seem to remember something about piston slap and/or lifters being cleaned? i never found the money or time to check it out though. the thing is i have found with these cars (again i had 5), is in the old days you could find them and just buy them for 2-3000 and if they ran good when you test drove it it would most likely for at least a few years. but now they are getting quite a bit older and you have to look at it from the point of years of rot of some of the parts etc, so its not just regular maintenance its bringing the whole car up to par. but in my case i just got one that people did awesome maintenance maybe even garaged so that is nice. one thing to remember is to check the coolant hoses mostly i used to just change the big ones but look for them all there is one thats a little small like L shape on the front of the engine you can hardly see it, maybe small heater hoses too change them all unless theyve been done. things like that.

have you changed the gas filter ever?

wow people here know everything.

Thanks other Texan. ;0 I was thinking about it it might just be cause since the fronts pull the car theyre wearing more or the guy who put them on car got them used and they werent even sizes to begin with. They are pretty old. I found some nice Continentals ContiPros im going to try them theyre used but practically new. I just wondered really if theres some adjustment front to back i never heard of it jus wondering. Dan

Hi all. I have a question about tires and transaxle. I just got a 95 i posted a pic of it a while back. It has almost 145K, a 2.2, its a 5 speed MT. It runs great, and while i know the tires should be all the same tread and wear and size, well i looked at the tires when i bought it and they were all the same, but now after i drove it a few weeks i notice that when i pull out like in second and third even the front tires chirp a little. And they are actually less tread and a little smaller therefore not by tire size but more wear. They arent exactly the most rubber on the road tires more almost like off road ones and pretty old. But what i was wondering is could this chirping or squealing, its that the tires are actually "peeling rubber" haha for a second pulling out, could this and the wear of the front tires be from a trans problem or incorrect adjustment of the rear to front? is there any adjustment for that? or will new tires clear it up? the other thing of note the other day i had it inspected, and they did the emissions and there was like zero emissions at least compared to their standard on the paper. someone must have really changed the oil. the receipts said they did. thanks so much dan

I just bought my fifth one, my old gf had a 95 with about 85K when i met her thats where i learned about them. Since then I bought 4 more. Just a few weeks ago i got the best one other than hers. Its a 95 (thats the year, actually about halfway through 96, they changed over to interference engine, so watch for that.) so im glad its non-interference. It was well maintained so it makes all the difference. Also try to get one from south somewhere im sure the snow and salt in CO is a killer like it was in pa for me earlier. Other main culprit is timing belt get a good kit seals etc and get it and all hardware pulleys etc water pump at same time. not worth doing it if you dont replace it all.

well thats the weird thing about it the car's been all over, i think the original owners were from idaho? and the receipts were from austin, oregon, i think they lived there too. the thing is its nice to get a car that was actually maintained they took it in a lot for all the lube maintenance even the door locks its awesome. thanks '97

my family used to live in mystic and then north stonington wehn we were kids. we used to take the old route 2 to norwich what a beautiful place that is always reminds me of robert frost poems.

just bought this beauty last weekend. 2500 from (2nd) private owner. 95 2.2, loads of maintenance records. its a 5 speed manual trans. oil changed regularly. wonderful. it drives better than any of the 4 ive had, except my old girlfriend's 95 when it had 80000 on it when i met her.

yeah do your self a favor and get good new rotors even powerstop, but better oem, and some good rebuilt calipers and nice pads, replace it all and the fluid. i mean if im reading correctly these rotors are 13 years old? or if they were replaced may have been an off brand? the cause is right in your avatar pic of your car: snow. i used to live in pennsylvania and aside from the salt the winter is a killer, youve had 13 of them. i figured out over time especially after the rotors are older and thinner not up to original par, that say youre driving along on a trip and they get heated off and on, at least theyre pretty warm, then you hit a big slushy patch, then they dry off and heat up with some braking, then more slush. maybe this happens 100 200 times on a good snowy day? thats when a lot of the warping happens i think.