Knichol

I don't know. There must be a reason that some people had problems or something. What year EJ did you use?

"Use the throttle pedal and cable from the EJ series vehicle." Everyone always says this but I did not need to. There is plenty of travel to go from closed to WOT. The old EA82 Cable fit fine onto the EJ22. Why do people say use the other Cable?

Mike (the guy I lived with when you dropped off the transmission in pullman) and I will have it crunch out in 6 hr..... If not..... something went wrong and with me it always does. :cool: So i better plan a whole weekend.

I do remeber you! I believe you had a thunderbird when I met you.... I could be wrong.... Or at least you were driving someone elses. You must have a subaru now? what is it?

I just got my AA lift in the mail today. How long did it take you for an install time on your BYB lift?

I will give it to you Tex you definitly didn't make it hard to Turn down the Subaru Experience. How is that old GF? It has fired up, I have about 3000 miles on it, Ran it back and forth from Spokane to Bellingham everyweekend for about a month. Runs like a champ. It is so nice to beable to drive at 75-80 and not have to drop down to third gear going over the pass to maintain the speed. I used Mudrat's adapter and it fit and works just as described. The motor is an EJ22 and all those 2200 cc's aren't enought. I don't think Tex ever got to ride in my Nova but the subaru has a long way's to go before its up to par on what I like for speed. I forgot to take a picture of it but I do have the OBD-II connector mounted just under the CD receiver so it makes for an easy plug when hooking up the laptop. To pull codes or monitor sensors.

You guys are probably getting tired of seeing pics like these but here's my wagon. (About 95% done, I just need to clean some things up.) http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showgallery.php?cat=500&ppuser=3142 Let me know if anyone sees anything wrong :-\

The motor is a 96 or 97 2.2 in a loyale. It has a open air intake, custom profile cam's, borla header and pretty open exhaust. I have done some minor polish work on the heads. The rev limiter kits in at 6000 rpm and it feels like it is cutting out about 1000 rpm short of its peak. I haven't be able to get down to a dyno to varify that yet. I am not worried about breaking parts because the trill of building an engine that is a strong runner out weighs the parts you break on the way. I am assuming there's no way around the rev limiter? No simple way if deactivating it?

Is there any way of getting around the built in rev limiter on the EJ22 motors without getting a piggy back system or a full blown after market ecu?

I have just completed the EA to EJ swap. Probably the easiest engine swap that I have completed. (Granted I tried to save some time and orderd the adapter or the modified flywheel but that ended up taking much longer.) I have a question for the board. I don’t know what type of copy rights are out there on the adapter plates. So far I think there are none since there’s a website with step by step instructions on how to make the adapters and modify the flywheels. Why hasn't anyone spec'd one of these into a CNC machine or similar computer automated cutter? It would take me very little time to input it in, that way people could simply share the file. I can't get a hold of John (Mudrat79) for the life of me so I don't know if he would be offended or not. Comments? Concerns?

No the fan turns on for about 1min and a half and then shuts off for about 30 seconds. (These are just guesses) The idle stays at about 800 jumps to about 1200 and then comes down to 800 for a two or three, then bounces again. the whole idle process takes about 8 seconds. The idle starts to bouce once it has ran for about 45 seconds, at which time the water temp is around 149 f. Thanks once again for your time and effort in helping with my problem

Yes, the idle pulse happens reguardless of AC/Defrost/fan/lights. I say this only because I have driven it around at night and day with all on and all off and almost every combination between. What effects would the A/C and Defrost have if they were mal-funtioning?

No your advice is awesome! There has been more than once where I was sure I had ruled something out and it ended up coming back and getting me in the butt. I was checking while the idle was irregular and the temps stayed the same/rising slightly. The only flux in temp was when the fan turned on which made the temp drop until the fan turned off. Thanks once again for all your help and effort! Anything else you might suggest please do so!

To check the ECU temp sensor reading I looked at what its output temp was via an obdII scanner/software and then checked it to the temp of digital output on the guage sensor. They both read the same temp. I was going to follow it up by checking what the the resistance range should be and make sure its within that range.

I played around with the idle air control valve with no change. I will check the fsm to see what the spes should be or replace it completely. If I increase the idle to about 1100 the changing idle disappears. I will check the EGR to make sure that its not plugged and is working correctly. I heard rumor that Subaru stopped putting egr valves on after a certain year is that true? Thanks for your suggestions, if you come up with any more please let me know.

OK, I had two extra alternator's, and I believe all three are good, I tried them all and still no change with the changing idle, Vacuum lines are good, and the temp sensors are still reading where they should, including the one that goes to the ecu. Change O2 sensors front and rear and still no change. Any Other Suggestions? I will resort to doing a magical Subaru dance if anyone knows the moves!

I have a 1996 2.2L that is having some idle issues. Symptoms: once motor gets relatively warmed up the Idle starts to pulse form about 800 to 1300 back down to 800 at a beat of about once every 8 seconds. There are no MIL's (engine check light errors) current or pending when I check it with an obdII reader/scanner. Any suggestions on what it might be?

Thanks for those messurements. The muffler i am looking at is either a 20" long and 6" in diameter or 20" long 4" diameter, and I am am hoping that it fits in the stock locattion. I am running new pipe anyways so whatever bends are needed i will have to make.

Sent a pm

Is any one around their dl/gl/loyale wagon or knows off hand what the external dimensions of their muffler is? I am going to be back to mine till this weekend, and I wanted to get an aftermarket muffler before I get back to the car, saving about an hour drive back to the nearest exhaust shop. Here's a preemptive "thanks" to whom ever!

My buddy works at an exhaust shop and was told by him, then told again by Borla... 1) There was a design flaw in the original Design, Bolra told me the fixed it recently but.... 2) Told by exhaust guy and Borla, when doing the system, make sure no weight is hanging on the header, add extra hangers to prevent weight of the system hanging on it if needed. Hopefully this works?

Thanks to all who provided some comments on what exhaust to use! Its is always good to get advise from the those who have been there or done that!!

What electic fan you running for cooling? I am running the ea turbo rad. but dont know what electric fan will fit/use?

Thats the header i am using. I think i am going to try the Magnaflow dual tip muffler, I would take tex's advice but I really like the look of the dual tip mufflers on sub's and borla doesn't make a dual tip that i like. Thank's for your feed back!

I would most definitly agree with you, since I have single chambers on my Nova and the good ol' 40 series on a bronco, but I put one on an import and it didn't quite sound good. Personal opinion i guess.... I just am affraid I am going to get a muffler that gives my car that typical import sound, and since i have heard a couple of sub's that definitly don't sound like that I was wondering what people were using.