Knichol

I know Tex..... I get that way sometimes! Will this happen - I would give it a 50/50 chance. Depends if I can find parts in a cost effective way!

Thanks for the info on this guys. We got the car up on his lift lastnight and just through some idea's around on mounting points and what needs to change to make a 4 link work.

I just realized my nieghbor builds prerunner Fords and Toyota's and he thinks it would be great to build up a subaru to plink around with. I have searched through treads but haven't been able to find to specific information on solid axles under subarus. specific question - hopefully someone has already done the research and may save me some time. What if anything has close to the same width axles as an EA82 wagon? I would like to get something that doesn't stick the wheels out too far, (I can adjust overall looks with wheel selection) I haven't pull specs on the typical yota's, datsun, samari's, nissan, jeeps, ford's. If someone has already looked into this please let me know or PM me.

Scott, I have an adjustable idea drawn up for you, you going to be around tonight? Call me, or I will call you!

I will second that motion Sorry I couldn't make it, ended up planning too many things for one day.

We need to cut some costs out, which I think we have been able to without selling the subaru, so it's one of those, its forsale just cause. I took it out last weekend and play'd skidder with it! We were clearing a 1.5 mile long driveway. Need help this week?

Oh MY! Thats pretty cool! I now have visions of armys of lifted subaru's running around after seeing that picture of all those lift parts! No wonder you haven't had time to go wheelin lately!

has anyone had any issues with the angle of the taper not matching the lug nuts and therefore the lug nuts working loose?

Hey Scott, how's the build coming? Need any hands?

It would be used in conjuntion with an open or lsd rearend for traction once one of the wheels lifted off the ground. I ran a locked diff for year or so and it worked great, but it tends to push you straight in situations where you don't want to be pushed straight. Running different farm equipment around, it's one of the ways to get out of situations when you don't have locking diffs. It seems the problem with the turn brakes for sand rails is that they don't apply enough pressure to lock the floating tire up. The one set up i saw didn't have it plumbed in line with the brake booster. Would it be possible to do this setup and but have it plumbed back so that it was essentially "powered" turn brakes? You run this in the front and locked in the rear I am assuming? How would this work with open rear and this for the front? Probably the same if it were on the rear?

Ok, I know some of you have looked into turn brakes such as the style on sandrails but what about the ones on tractors? You have two break peds with a bar that can lock both together or control each one separate. The two peds could be located to the left of the clutch if slim enough and would only control the rear brakes. I think this could be done, but just don't know the parts involved. Such as, is it possible to have it plumbed in through the factory brake booster and custom distrubution block so you wouldn't have to have thunder thighs to use it? Constructive ideas welcomed!

Excuse me, are those seats taken?? :popcorn:

What time? I can be there

I have a set of 215/75/15's on my wagon which you know Scott. Here's my review: Rain: Have to go with Zap - even with the old EA they spun pretty easily even from a rolling start without dumping the clutch Mud: Fair to ok - we have a differnent mud than they have on the east side, do fine in our mud, do crappy in the eastside sticky mud Snow: Depends - West side snow they do ok (I had them on our run up past the brewery, I couldn't cut trail as well as you guys with the MT's), east side dry snow, excellent! Dry pavement: Good: quiet, good wear. Overall, They are like an Enduro, not nearly as good as a street bike on the street, or a dirt bike off road, but its the fact that you can attempt both. They are good for a daily driver that you will take on logging roads, camping, down to the river, places that you plan on going and making it back by yourself.

How many people you got going, and when you planning?

Thanks for the info! So how was your final setup? Did you have 4.44 rear diffs with internal axle stubs and then converted the inner cv axles or did you pull the ring and pinion?

Axle stubs: are these just a direct swap from the internal to the external axle stub type? Or is there machining that needs to be completed?

EA82 is what I would be hoping to use it for. I am assuming that the newer style is a stronger method?

Good! Does it come on stock on something older that has the external axle stubs?

Opps, no, I just didn't think about what I was typing, I completely spaced on that. Question 1 deleted. What 4.44 diffs bolt directly in? Thank Gloyale for the info!

After doing some research I ended up with more questions than answers. If anyone has any more information I would be very grateful. Statement 1) R160 4.44 Gearing only came on some 98-03 2.5RS's? False - It also comes stock on: Some new models as well, Manual Outbacks and Forresters? Statement 2) R160's with 4.44 gears only come with "inverted" (there must be a better term) axle connection rather than the axle stubs we (the EA82 crowd) are use to? True - Not certian though Statement 3) The cv axles can be modified to make the inverted or inner axle stub work with the EA82 axles? Maybe True? inner CV joint off of the EA's can be modified to make the internal axle stub work, although I don't know the specifics. Question 2) Can the ring and pinion of the 4.44 fit into the 3.9 R160 case? Question 3) Can the axle stubs be changed so that the external axle stubs can be placed on the 4.44 r160 housing? Unproven Please correct any of the statements if they are incorrect. Thank you guys for any/all of your help!

Had a great time, Happy Bday Scott. Nice meeting you guys that I didn't know. Look forward to doing this again.

Ahh, I figured short and to the point so people don't have to wade through more info than needed (although I obviously put more than needed to get people ask'n other questions) that way, if someone needed to swap in newer rear ends in these old rigs, reguardless if they have a matched front diff, matched gearing in the trans, different sized front/rear tires, removed front cv axles, etc, they would have the straight facts... anyways it didn't work so well.

Tcase soon! Thanks once again for the info.

Awesome... Do you know if you can convert it over to the external/male axle stubs, or is the only known way is to convert the axle? Is this what Storm was talking about in this thread? http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=67019&highlight=differences+diff