nicky nighteyes

thank you, yes that is 4" inch lift and stock engine (except for the weber of course) but... I did have to do a signifigant amount of beating and cutting of the fenders to have them not rub (it was like a 2 month process) The problem was I would cut em back and they would be fine on the street, but then i would go off road and they would start rubbing due the extreme use, so back to the sawzall and hammer again. I also ending up removing the rear mudflaps and fender trim because they rubbed on that, with four people in the car or over gnarly bumps. But once you get em cut right, your good to go, been happy with em ever since. except for all the screws my tires seem to seek out all the time.... good thing I got em at Les Schawb, I been in there five times now for a quick patch, and they never charge me a thing. and yes, les Schawb will order swampers if you ask em too.

ummmm ea81s don't have timing belts, or computers for that matter. at least they didn't in '84

will do, i try to go every weekend (if my car is in working order) I would reccomend no larger than 29s without a t-case or EJ. I run 28.5 and its seems like any bigger and it would just be to much power loss

interesting, good find WJM...

i run 28.5 TSL's with just a weber, welded diff and better exhaust, turns em fine. Although i have broken a diff stub that was in the snow, the tire hit just right while hillclimbing. Normally I don't have a problem, just use common sense and throttle smartly, especially with that second axle in....

i wish..... i'm getting rained on in the driveway. once you get finished, you should come wheeling with us... i mighta missed it.. what size tires are you putting on?

they are called art cars, plug it into google and it will pull up some good examples heres a subie (its real uh....interesting though) and another (not subie)

i'll rephrase: GL series coupe i too would like to know what kinda horsepower its making.

:lol:reminded me of a early BMW coupe. Personally I like the bodywork, very unique (if a bit over the top ) as for the engine... granted, I think a nice JDM EJ25 would make it all the better, neverless it is impressive he took the time to fab that in there..... I think this is one of those love it or hate it kinda things oh and the wheels shoulda been the gold STi BBS's, with the brembos for that matter (if thats even possible)

I would like to see THAT adapter plate!

Do it!!!!! the only negative i can think of is that dirt and mud are harder to remove on the rhino liner. solution: don't remove it.

here is his list of modifications: BODY/EXTERIOR 1982 Subaru Leone Coupe WRC Blue 16" Chrome Wheels Custom Bodykit 5% Tint BMW Electric Chrome Mirrors Bonnet Scoop ENGINE/GEARBOX Series 5 RX7 13b Turbo Extend Port 3" Mandrell bend exhaust from turbo back 3" Dump pipe Pod Filter Turbosmart BOV Top mount intercooler EMS Computer with handheld controller 5 Speed EA82 constant AWD, liberty 4.11 internals L-Series front and rear discs SUSPENSION Lowered Koni Adjustable Suspension Modified rear camber KMAC front camber kit Whiteline Front and rear swaybars INTERIOR Custom door panels Electric Windows Sunroof Custom centre console MOMO Gear Knob BOSS Steering wheel ISOTTA Pedals STEREO JL 6" Drivers JL 6x9" Drivers JVC MP3 Head Unit JVC 12" Sub Response 2x100 Amp CONVERSION Modified engine crossmember Custom gearbox crossmember Custom engine adaptor plate Engine crossmember dropped 2" Walbro Fuel Pump was fitted 1L Surge Tank Custom tailshaft

from AUsubaru.com omG teh rotary-powered hawtness (not a purist, I know) More pics here original thread link

nice job, I passed a few months ago, with the weber. THey didnt even mention it, or the fact that all my emission controls are gone.

yeah, I switched em both to the red w/ blue. glad i didnt hit the high beams when I had em wired that way! everything seems in order, voiltemeter reads where it should. in-dash guage seems to jump around and read 10V most of the time, even though bat reads higher. Probably just a fault in the guage wiring....... who knows, it works now. for a side funny note: Since I bought this car almost two years ago, that charge light has NEVER come on, don't know how it made it this far, but seems like Garner had the same problem (search "charge lamp") Since its fixed I have seen a noticible increase in power, bet those spark plugs really like getting the voltage there rated for thanks again Skip, your assistence on this has been indispensible.

I had one on the red w/ blue stripe, but the other on the red w/ white. I have corrected the problem, and according to the voltmeter everything checks out. However the in dash guage still reads low sometimes (prob just the guage itself) and I havent had a chance to take it for a test drive yet, we will see how she does..........this time I am taking the voltmeter with me!

a quick update: wired both t-plug connections into the headlight assembly and took her for a thorough test drive. Voltage seemed fine on startup but seemed to drop after driving around a bit (at one point back down to 8V, at least according to the in dash gauge, kinda hard to stick a voltmeter on the battery while driving....) I could tell the alt was charging though...as it climbed sporadically with the RPMS. Further investigation is required, Of course another battery of voltmeter tests is in order. Then I am going to double check those t-plug connections and secure the wires down nice and tight, and maybe run an extra ground off the alt like subiemech suggested.. an extra ground or two off the bat woulden't hurt either...

SUCCESS!! You nailed it Skip. After wiring up a spare t-plug directly to pos bat terminal, started her up and guage immediatly jumped up to where it should. Quick multimeter test showed 14.56 outputting from the bat while running. YES!!!!! So.........whats your advice now? Just wire t-plug connections to igg-switched hot wire? (any suggestions for a wire near the alt I can tap into?) or try and fix the charge lamp? My eternal gratitude to all who helped me with this, especially Skip.

roger that, will try it and update.

So I should hook both T wires to pos bat post?

thanks for looking that up Skip, good to know I have just put in the known good alt, model LR155-15C. still no change. However throughout the duration of this problem the "charge light" has not come on, fuse is fine but no light. So.... couple questions: first, if someone could explain the purpose of the wires on the alt. I know the one connected by a nut is a hot wire, and i have tried running it directly to the pos bat post. BUT what about the t-plug? One hot and one ground? secondly Skip, can i bypass the excite circuit by running the hot wire you mentioned? is that the larger of the t-plug wires? or how do i repair or replace the charge light? not familiar at all with it. I am assuming there is a bulb in the dash, but have no idea how to get to it. run wire from bat+ term on alt to battery + done (as long as alt + is the wire with the nut) run wire from alt case screw to battery - run wire from battery + to terminal of fuse link box done check fusible links, IIRC a green one haldles the charge done

subiemech85: I will try running fresh wires to everything you suggested, little to hungover today though, will have to wait until tommorow Skip: how could i tell which is the case? if there is an external regulator where is it located? btw fusible links tested ok how would a burned out charge light affect the situation? known good alt also goes in tommorow, if that dosen't work and the new wiring dosen't pan out. I will have the alts tested at the auto parts store. thanks for all your advice to all who responded. updates as they come.

ouch, the picture along made me cringe, that really sucks. you have my deepest condolences. Good luck with the insurance co, keep on em.

just got done running through snowman's tests for voltage drop found here this is with the NEW battery and cleaned grounds etc. seems like there was several probs going on as when I tested prior to doing any replacing numbers were lower and grounding problems were apparent 1. open circuit voltage: 12.12 voltage on pos/neg terminals with full load: 11.56 2. one lead on the alternator case and one on the terminal on the alternator 11.56 (indicates alt prob) 3. one lead on the battery positive and one on the terminal on the alternator, .0 (connection is now fine this was prior .6) 4. Place one lead on the battery negative terminal and one on the alternator case .0 (this was prior .8 grounds are now good) I guess this means the THREE alts I have swapped in must be all bad. unlikely but possible. Tommorow i will swap in a KNOWN good alt and see what happens. Will of course post an update.

last week I was at the JY pulling the coveted slant console out of a EA71 hatch and glanced over in the passenger footwell.... ....what is staring back at me but a nice little rig (hypo needle) *shudder* gross