Caboobaroo

IIRC, you can put the RX locking center diff into the tranny but for front and rear, like monstaru said, the NISMO one and the LSD/VLSD were the only onces available IIRC.

So I have a quick question since I really couldn't find anything on it in the PDF file or have really seen it discussed. I'm using a EJ 5-speed from a '98 Impreza and was wondering about a pitch stopper. What have people done with it and did you cut the stock EA down or did you use an EJ or what. I think this is one of the last pieces of the puzzle I need to solve before I get it all together since I currently don't have an EJ one, just a SPFI EA pitch stopper.

The 4wd transfer clutch is just a regular fluid type clutch pack that is activated in the valvebody by a solenoid or something like that. It causes the fluid to build up pressure from the pump to engage it. What it sounds like to me is the front diff is going out. The other thought is the ATF and the gear oil for the front diff have exchanged which is why the tranny fluid looks new (replaced when it was noticed it was mixing) which thins out the gear oil and frys the front diff bearings. I would agree, 5 speed swap is the best idea and its super east with the 3AT automatic tranny. You just need to remember to jumper the neutral safety switch for it to start which is located in the connector for the shifter inside the car. If you have cruise control, wire in a toggle switch and switch it off when you go on a long drive down the freeway where cruise would be nessessary and the cruise will work like it would if the automatic was still in it.

See my above post. If the blocks are still attached to the subframe then they have indeed ripped from the body.

well...... if it has truely ripped out of the body, you're kind of in a bad spot since the subframe where you're talking about bolts INTO the body. It rips the welded captive nut through the sheetmetal of the body and leaves a torn hole from where it used to be. It'll be trying to mend what ripped instead of replacing it. You can also try making it stronger when you repair it though.

Sounds like the front lift blocks that lift the plates for the strut rods has ripped out of the body. Its a pretty common problem from what I hear with lifted Subarus. Thats gonna be my guess since you also mentioned the tranny is hanging which is where the tranny crossmember bolts to IIRC.

Mine aren't 4x140 but they do weigh 15.2 lbs. a piece. Oh they're 17x8 Enkeis:grin:

Oh yes, I totally forgot! My car has been my #1 priority right now since well, it don't run:-\

A come along and a tow chain can do wonders if you got a couple days on your hands. I have both if you'd like to borrow, and me if you like but my time is worth $$$ I know a couple guys with rigs that would be able to get out there but you'd have to convince them with some $$$ and beer or something to help you get it out.

My first Subaru was a '83 GL Chaser and it had blown the freezeplugs in the passenger side head out, which caused there to become massive amounts of coolant into the oil. Pull off the valvecovers and look for the brass freezeplugs chillin in the bottom of the heads. If thats not the problem, could be the headgaskets like stated before or..... certain death:eek:

woo Spark! Whats new? Been out pickin up any new ladies since we last talked?

Holy crap! I remember you! You moved back out here when Andrew did. Thats crazy! Glad to see you are gettin back into Subarus and that turbosedan is siiiiiick. Just wait till you see my RX one of these days. I'm living up in Redmond now:banana:

It was '85 to early '87 that did this and the SPFI disty will work too. You might need to change the electrical connector on the harness for the disty but other then that, its a direct swap in. I might have a new cap for it too IIRC...

The only time you don't want to use the 4wd is on dry pavement. I also wouldn't use it in the rain either but anything that has a slippery surface is totally fine. Snow, ice, mud, as long as the tires can slip a bit to keep the tranny from binding, you'll be fine.

Ah yes, no wonder why it wasn't adding up in my head. Guess thats what I get for thinking while being sick:-\

Well if the mechanism isn't disengaged like you're talking about where you have to drive straight for it to, the vacuum modulator isn't putting pressure on the shifter so it'll "pop" out when you drive straight. So even thought the shifter is still engaged if you park, the vacuum isn't putting pressure on it so your luck of it freezing or doing something else like that is almost none. The only time it'll freeze if its not used and corrosion gets into the cable that pulls the shifter fork for the 4wd engagment.

I'm not sure about the 3AT (but I can check here in a sec) but the 5-speed has a gear with a synchro that slides back and forth to go from 2hi, 4hi and 4lo, just like shifting gears in a regular tranny. The vacuum modulator pulls on a shift fork like a shifter moves a shift fork inside the tranny to change gears. Looks like the 3AT uses the tranny fluid to pressurize a clutch pack to lock it into 4wd. Its hard to explain but if you know how an automatic tranny work, it takes the transfer clutch pack and locks it together when the line pressure is diverted to it.

You could always buy one here, have someone look at it for you and ship it down there. Would be less then $2k probably. There was a nice '85 red wagon 5-speed 4wd here in the Seattle area that looked cherry, 230k or something on it but ran good. Carb'd though:rolleyes:

The PB 5-speed system is vacuum, like the FT trannies with a locking center diff so once the vacuum has leaked out of the system after the vehicle is shut off, then it'll disengage. It'll engage once you start the car if you leave the button pressed. I think the same goes for the 3AT as well but I'm not 100% positive.

Keji, you can use any EA82 coupe fender, the trim clips out of them after you pull the fender. I have a black bumper that was on my black RX sitting in my garage but it doesn't have the gold stripe in it. It had been replaced when mine was in a front end wreck.

I do every now and then. MSN messenger handle is iroc_z2814@hotmail.com

well I was going to take the EA shift linkages and weld the EJ stuff to the ends of them so they bolt up to the tranny and to the tranny tunnel.

Tex, the drivelines for all EA 5-speeds are the same, however the FT drivelines have an extra vibration insulation in them according to my FSM. Lengths and everything are the same, I used one from a '86 PB4wd wagon long ago. I also have the shift linkages and since they're special to the RX box, I need the set you pull from your wagon to make the ones for my RX:) Then just swap to turbo front axles and you'll be golden:banana:

If I remembre correctly, there are no toe adjustments on the back of EA81 cars... *pulls out '83 FSM* It says the specs for the rear toe are 0 degrees +/- 3mm Looks like it has a similar setup like the EA82 and you are correct, those three bolts need to be loosened and adjusted to where it needs to be. However, if it seems like its toed out, you have something either bent or the rear crossmember isn't sitting in the correct position bu thats typically from a hard impact such as with a curb.

I'd be willing to get a set of headlights you're looking for in trade for your originals if they're in good shape with no cracks.