Caboobaroo

I decided to go with a modified a-pillar pod from a WRX in mine. Just got it installed so no pics of it in the car currently but I do have a couple pics of it in my last RX.

I'm looking into it as well since my MC is leaking and my rear brakes aren't working as good as they should. Unfortunatly for me, I have a 4 port MC instead of 3 since my car never came with a hill holder due to it originally being an automatic. So maybe I'll look them up in the computer at work and call around to a few places since I need one bad:-\

all of those happen to be a real stiff truck shock. Out of all of them though, I'd go with the gas-a-just shocks since they are a little more friendly for that small of a car. The Monomax's are heavy duty truck shocks, I sell them and the KYBs at work.

Well this is what I'm going to try to accomplish. Since I need to basically build a 3 piece tranny crossmember for the EJ 5-speed, and I can use the pieces from my RX tranny and a EJ tranny, the rear piece is the one I need to figure out. I know the 3AT and the 4EAT trannys use a crossmember where the rear piece would bolt onto the body so I'm wondering if its possible to modify one for my application.

yup since I'm piecing together parts for my EJ swap and need to figure out something for the tranny crossmember:-\

just what you need, another POS sitting around;)

If someone has one they can take a pic of out of the car that would be awesome.

The sideskirts on Dan's old RX are factory sideskirts that came on all the RX's, sedans or coupe. Well almost all of them.

Search for Crawlerdan on here. He had a RX sedan a few months ago that was pretty sweet.

I'm thinking the car has been repainted before, at least on the driver side fender. If you look close enough, the stripe kit on the bottom is missing only on that panel.

Along with Suberdave and Tex, I'm up there as well. I just don't have a turbo motor yet:rolleyes: http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2010840970067339125ZmIQby

Looks good but now it needs to be lower:-p

I'm gonna guess a rally cross. I think James made a mention to me that he was going to miss one while he was down in the Carribean...

Congrats man!

Finished helping your uncle out today. Had to get a remand caliper for it since I realized the 14" calipers are physically different then the 13" calipers. Went over, did the work and the car stops real nice now. Ed, I'll be at work tomorrow but we could see if we can get together at your place on Sunday for the install since that would work best for me.

I have access to a lot of different shocks and bushings at my job so I can see what I can dig up for you. Dimensions of the bushings would be great so I can get some for you. All you'd need to do is pay for shipping and whatever the cost is for the part that I get it for;)

Always a pleasure Zap, I'm there when help is needed usually. The drive seemed to take forever last night but I finally got home and got some well needed sleep. Was truely fun!

LOL this thread has become epic! I was there over Memorial Day weekend. They were EVERYWHERE:eek: And the catch and release program is the best in my book;)

Chelan!?!?! Chasin all the hotties down there:lol:

loyale2.7 - those bars you're refering to are known as caster rods or strut rods, or radius rods. They have a few different names but for now, we'll call them the caster rods. Anyways, when these bent, they bent and its very noticiable but this won't affect camber hardly at all. I'm still going to shoot and say its the knuckle that has to be replaced if the strut isn't bent. The same design that the EA82s have (strut to knuckle design) is also the same design on a lot of cars like Ford Taurus's, Windstars and so on. They also have a problem where the knuckle will bent where the strut slides into it and can't be seen until its compared with a new one. So see if you can find yourself another knuckle to compare them to see if it is in fact bent.

sorry dude, youre about a year too late. I lived out there for a couple years and moved back to the PNW. Most of the guys live in Denver with maybe 3 in Wyoming in general.

I'll be heading down Friday evening since I have to work on Friday. Hopefully they decide to give me Saturday off but if not I'll be:mad: Oh and I might have 2 cars there this year:-p

You don't want the parking brake on since it'll cause the rotor to be clamped, thus not giving you any room for possible movement. In gear is one thing but the parking brake is a bad thing:-p

So I'm an alignment guy and so I'll see about popping in here for some opinions. Really what the alignment center needs to do is determine WHAT is bent in there. You can determine this by using the Steering Axis Inclination Angle (I will refer to it as SAI) and the Included Angle (or IA). SAI is a measurement taken from an imaginary line from the center of the top of the strut to the lower ball joint and a perpendicular line from the center of the tire where it meets the ground. IA is the measurement between the first line I described (the top of the strut and lower ball joint) and the camber of the wheel. SAI + Camber = IA. These are the two angles I use to figure out what is bent under a car after an accident, wheather its with a curb or a pothole. With using these 2 measurments, you can figure out what is bent. Using SAI, you can determine if its bent either at the top of the strut, or down at the bottom such as the ball joint. The IA will help determine if its somewhere inbetween such as a bent strut itself or knuckle. With the way the setup is on these cars, I'm willing to bet its probably bent where the strut inserts into the knuckle, either the end of the strut itself or the knuckle. It would also help to have the specifications where everything is currently. I have a book in front of me with the factory specs in it so I can help you from there. At the very least, I'd need to know the SAI angle on both the left and right side. Really at this point in the game and what you've replaced, I'm leaning to a bent knuckle but also check the strut where it goes into the knuckle as well. If the upper strut tower got bent, you'd see where the paint would be flaking off of it where a crease would be or where the damage is. Its very unlikely thats the case though.

Its a very common problem on the gen 1 stage 2 cars. Since the headights are directly connected to the battery, corrosion actually will creep down the wire over time from the battery and never be noticed since its all under the insulation.