93Newbaru

It's better to just buy the tires locally and have the shop you purchased them from do the mounting and balancing. The last 4 locally I purchased were truck tires and I believe it was $70 for mount/balance. The tires were less than the internet price and no shipping cost. Buy locally

I'd find a used Thule rack if price is a big deal, otherwise you could always order a new one. The thule website is recommending the 400XT footpack and KIT67 clips. It may not be clear how to install a rack on a certain vehicle, but Thule designs everything to work with almost any vehicle, and everything I have ever used works quite well.

Seems a little complicated instead of making a job easier, although it might be easier to wrestle it into position with it hanging above you instead of sitting flat on a jack. If I ever try this I will be doing it alone though, I'm sure one person could figure it out. I find that in most cases a second person just gets in the way anyway:-p

Even better, you are the man!

Excellent. The search is on! Thanks!

Maybe GeneralDisorder will chime in here.....uh did I say that out loud? -Dreaming of a 2.2 in my outback

If you aren't in a hurry and have 9 dollars harbor freight sells a vice grip chain plier type tool. Of course there is shipping, so spend another $50-100 for other junk you may need to make it worth while. I just used the exact same tool to remove my 2.2 pulley. The chain tool jammed itself against the alternator bracket or something and I had a long 1/2 drive craftsman flex ratchet on the bolt. It's more like 130 foot pounds, and it definitely took some force to break it loose. Beating isn't a good idea, bloody knuckles, broken tool, stripped bolt head....etc. Tool: http://www.harborfreight.com/locking-chain-clamp-36813.html

The EJ22 harness to the engine plugs in behind the battery with 2 plugs I believe. The EJ25 harness seems to come from out of the firewall behind the motor, has 3 large plugs that then plug into the harness on the engine. I still don't see how the intake alone will change enough for everything to work. I am home now, not by the car and have no book with me just speaking from what I remember so far.

I'm looking to do this the easiest way possible, and as long as I don't have to fork over lots of cash I will do it whatever way is the best and easiest. A 95+ intake is all I really need? How does the intake alone solve the entire wiring compatibility? It seems like there are a lot more plugs on the EJ25. Forgive me for not trying to figure this all out by myself, I really like using the minds of people that have done it before to save me lots of time:grin:

Entire harness it is. Doesn't the dash need to be pulled apart to access it all? From what I remember the computer is down in there somewhere, and the EJ22 harness should be plug and play with the existing computer?

The EJ22 wiring harness does not look like it will plug in. I would like to swap the EJ25 wiring onto the EJ22 intake manifold. Does this mean just a few plugs or is this the entire harness. Is there cutting and splicing with plugs or anything?

Hello, I realize there are many threads about the EJ25 to EJ22 swap, and I have read every single word of every one of them, but it's not crystal clear to me as to what to do here. I have two EJ22's from a 90 and 93 legacy. I need to swap one of these into my 97 EJ25 Outback. I pulled the 2.5 today and began looking at plugs and wires, and couldn't remember what to do from there. Remove intake from EJ25 and install on EJ22? I still have the 90 legacy if I need wiring or anything. What other wiring am I supposed to swap? I'd like to know exactly what to do so I can get something done tomorrow, I don't have internet at my garage so I can't reference my bible (usmb). And here's the EJ25 uncovered:

Haha, cool. I was reading this thread the past couple days as I have the same problem now. How bad does it drive? Gas mileage? Is valve damage a 100% guarantee when a timing problem happens? I just started to swap an EJ22 into my outback, but figured I would check out the 2.5 first. The timing components are totally destroyed. One blown pulley, one bad pulley, tensioner pulley feels like garbage, AND seized water pump. I figured I'd install a used pulley set and belt and see how bad the motor is. Good idea or no? I don't see any major leakage or anything around the heads, only the whole front of the motor is covered in oil. If it takes any more than a timing kit I will probably just drop the 2.2 in.

Rubber mallet, no. We'd have no idea how much force or how many times you hit it or.........//// There is a torque spec for the crank pulley and medium strength loctite like the blue color is recommended. I believe the torque spec is 130 ft lbs. Some people use an impact.

I lightened the picture up in photoshop, it's gotta be lifted. Looks like a 4" too! And straight and clean like previously stated. Nice:headbang:

Nice job! The information on this site is amazing and can be a little much at times, but it sounds like you have accomplished one good task! How many miles are on the new gaskets, what brand were they? I'm more of a lurker myself, thats about 10 posts per year. The most I've done to these cars are motor swaps and driveline repair, but there are 3 motors sitting around that need head gaskets and plenty of other projects so I might be able to share a few stories later on. How long have you had your car for?

Wow, I usually don't do that. Either I thought it was still 2010 and the post was only a week old, or I read it wrong.

Haha, I run into this with most of the vehicles I buy. Something is wrong to the point where I can't test drive it, and am going on the owners word of what works and what doesn't. Most of the time the the previous owner hasn't been through the car like most of us either, so you always find something more after the deal is done. You just have to get it for a good enough price that if something more is wrong you aren't screwed. I recently picked up a 90 Leg wagon, classic example. Mentioned trans trouble, car wouldn't even start in the driveway when I arrived. Said they had it at a mechanic and they couldn't figure out the problem or whatever. Wanted $700, ended up with it for less than half. I hardly ever pass up anything that is worth more than scrap and this has many parts for my other Sub's. Towed it across town and started looking at it. First off I remember needing to hook battery up when the key is turned on, did that and it fired right up. Hardly moved in drive gears, checked fluid and subsequently emptied less than one quart of dirty fluid from the trans, basically had nothing in it. Some mechanic they had look at it? Filled with clean fluid but clutches are welded or something, every gear moves the car forward:rolleyes: And one more. 97 Outback wag. Wanted $1000, said motor went "kapoooey" on the highway, blew oil and coolant and what not. I went to look at it figuring it was seized but the motor still turns over by hand:clap: Over 200K, says trans works and its pretty clean, got it for less than half of his price too. We'll see when I get it home. That blue leg you just bought is like a million dollar car around here, beautiful!

90' Legacy 2.2 non turbo automatic. Moved very slowly at high RPM. Tranny was very low on fluid, just a sliver of dirty fluid on the dipstick while not running. Drained fluid, less than a quart of dirty fluid spilled out. Filled while idling until decent amount on dipstick. Started in 1 on shifter and it felt like it had all the power it needed, excitement. Selected 2, 3, then neutral but it still wanted to drive in neutral, no reverse, and felt like it was still in gear in park (like it had a load on it and would not free rev) Full test drive it shifts 1, 2, then free revs. Sometimes can make it catch 3rd but it bogs badly and usually slips out. Also has intermittent check engine light:popcorn: I read a handful of threads before this post, but nobody seemed to have the exact same problems I have. I purchased this car mainly for the motor and spare parts, but if the trans was an easy fix I could drive it as is or sell for profit. I've owned many Autos with problems but have never actually fixed them, either swapped transmissions or got rid of the vehiclezzz It's probably a gonner but I figured I would at least try! Thanks!

Ah alright thats what I figured, you don't actually need the EGR system but it will cause a CEL. Thanks! Time to get hands dirty:grin:

Yes, I am bringing this thread back from August. I have been reading through it and it has some good info. From what I have gathered, when doing a swap you have to keep the EGR intact. Why? That means my non EGR 1993 2.2 will not properly swap into a 1997 Outback with 2.5? I'd like to know because there is a car locally with a blown motor, and I have a 2.2 sitting out in the yard. Thanks!

That is the worst -dare I say "weld" I have ever seen!! It actually makes me kind of sick:dead:

Yes yes it could be any of those sensors or senders or switches...I think you've named most everything so far. You would be helping yourself if you owned a book for this vehicle, and a multimeter. You could then reference the book and it would tell you what to look for. I may not be of too much help, but I am a master searcher and have found you this thread. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=72411 The poster mentions a clicking relay or something in his first post, and the whole thread is about his 91 loyale not starting. I have not read through the entire thread. If you have a multimeter you could search for how to check various electrical components, that is what I usually do because I never remember what the voltage is supposed to be when the whatever is doing whatever. I would of course make sure the obvious is taken care of which it sounds like you already have. Has fuel, pump runs, all fuses and links and wires are visually checked. I will try to come back to this tomorrow.

Temp sensor: AC Delco #F1864 $15.08 ULTRAPOWER #TX96 $32.99 (lists for $75 under '89 GL but $32.99 under 94 loyale) ULTRAPOWER #TX18 SUBARU states "w/ turbo" $7.03 Temp sender: Standard motor products #TS61 $8.90 AIRTEX / WELLS #1T1211 $3.23

I was just going to post the same problem, my 89 Gl with swapped 93ish 1.8 runs like crap when cold (sometimes) until it warms up. Symptons include: bucking, stumbling, or completely cutting out when gas is pressed. First thing we did was route the EGR on the 93 motor like the 89 motor, which seemed to bypass some kind of solenoid and I believe it routed directly from the egr valve to the intake. Second thing was swapping the temp sensor and temp sender from the 89 motor, still stumbled and ran crappy. Third thing was swapped the coil from another 89 car and it ran perfectly a few times when cold, but is back to the same problem once again. -My last 6 gallons of fuel the trip meter reported around 70mpg, my tires are oversized but not by that much. --The car is also showing me no oil pressure, when started it jumps to maybe 80, then drops off to nothing and stays there. Have not swapped an oil sensor yet, but I assume there is oil pressure seeing I have driven it a couple hundred miles? I have just been living with it for a few months, although I would like to learn a little more seeing as I am about to acquire my third car and all 3 need work!