Twitch de la Brat

I brought one back from the dead Zeh Nite Vagon iz ALIVE And its for sale PM me for details Oh, and I twiddled with the BRAT trying to get the engine and transmission to mount up. Its harder than it looks when you're doing it on your own. Twitch

Hey, this guy's new AND helpful Thank you very much, I'll be cataloging this and awaiting more info for verification purposes Lets see what everybody else knows... Twitch

I know the axle shafts are 23 and 25 splined respectively. I want to know to tranny INPUT shaft spline count. The axle spline counts are everywhere, and easy to find. The input shaft spline counts are a lot harder to come by. Twitch

Ok, I've searched extensively and have yet to come to a conclusive answer. What are the spline counts for the various transmission input shafts? I can find axles by the pageload, but never the input shaft spline counts. So I want to collect all the info and submit it into the USRM for safe keeping. I'll give credit where credit is due. So, fill in the blanks. EA71 FWD transmission input shaft has __ splines EA71 4WD transmission input shaft has __ splines EA81 FWD transmission input shaft has __ splines EA81 4WD transmission input shaft has __ splines EA82 FWD Transmission input shaft has __ splines EA82 4WD S/R transmission input shaft has __ splines EA82 4WD D/R transmission input shaft has __ splines EA82T FWD transmission input shaft has __ splines EA82T 4WD S/R transmission input shaft has __ splines EA82T 4WD D/R transmission input shaft has __ splines EA82T AWD transmission input shaft has __ splines EA82T AWD D/R transmission input shaft has __ splines ER27 FWD Transmission input shaft has __ splines ER27 AWD transmission input shaft has __ splines EJ transmission input shaft has __ splines I hope that covered all of the options up to the old gen. Now this is obviously just manuals. So please, answer as accurately as possible and remember, this info is going to be put into the USRM, so please keep the useless banter and off topic posting to a minimum. Now I'm going to post some seemingly useless tags for easier referencing for the future. Tags: Tranny, Clutch Disc, Pressure Plate, XT6, Flywheel Twitch

Is anything coming out of your vents? If it's just blowing cold air along the floor, check the plastic tube that directs air to the vent system. It lies under the little shelf on the passenger side, resting against the firewall. It may have become dislodged or worked itself loose. Put that sucker back on, on both ends, and see if that fixes your problem Twitch

I put mine back together With help from a friend we got the BRAT back together for the most part. It still needs a motor mount drilled out and bolted down and a few little things done like filling the cooling system and bolting on the starter but otherwise, IT'S DONE Now I'm gonna pop on the chrome trim, bolt in the seats, drop the canopy on and be ready to roll after getting it to run Twitch

Guess what? You guys (and gals) might be missing something over in the group... (100lb HINT!) Twitch

Sweet. New member Now, just remember to post in the group and check back in occasionally, just to see what's going on. There may be some stuff going down that you won't know about until it's too late... Twitch

True that. Gimme a 69 Fleetside Chevy K3500 with a 502, corporate 14 bolt rear, DANA 60 front, 35's and paint it mud brown, cuz its never gonna be any other color But alas, I'll never have the money to afford that because my subaru's will eat my money long before then. Plus I gotta build my EA81TT before I try anything too crazy outside of the realm of Subaru. Twitch

Hey Brain, sorry, my weekend was a hellish nightmare, so I was unable to do much of anything. I'm working on seeing if just drilling through and running a bolt with bushings on each end would work. It may make a little vibration, but at least I know that sucker isn't going anywhere. Twitch

Thanks for the post, but I'm no longer a postal employee. I started going "postal" and so I quit before went full bore Hence why it's for sale. Twitch

Hahaha, how long has it been since you drove an EA81 wagon? :-p And how long has it been since you drove in N ID? The californians will run you off the road if you're doing less than 5 over! :-p Anyway, enough razzing Olnick. Nice looking wagon there! Maybe I'll see you around, as I live over here in the Athol of ID as well. That area up around Priest is beautiful. Hope to see your little wagon putting around, I wave to almost all of my subaru brethren. Twitch

Being in your area, Ben, I would think the GM alt swap would be easier. Mostly because I'm sure there are a lot more domestics than imports in the area. And it's really easy to fab up a custom bracket for the large case alts. And as for the problem, it sounds to me the contacts and the like are going away, as was already mentioned by Tom. Twitch

Well, I'm looking to sell it. I'm asking $6500 OBO, I'm willing to bargain with my fellow USMB members I'll be posting in the for sale section next. Twitch

Bumping this back up. We need to have more people checking into this. And checking BACK in and POSTING in the group. Twitch

Ok, I haven't checked rockauto as I haven't had access to a computer (yes I've been posting from my phone) but I will soon. I did read of a guy who modded EJ motor mounts to fit, but I don't really have a set of those hanging around to mod as I please. I'll see if Buick Regal mounts will work :-p My dad has a LOT of those hanging around... Twitch

Ok, I've been putting in my shiny new XT6 clutch for my 5sp d/r swapped BRAT, but have come across a serious dilemma. When I pulled the engine forward my passenger side motor mount fell off. Unfortunately only half of it fell off :-/ Guess I found my mystery vibration... Anyway, does anybody know of any direct swap motor mounts that are cheaper and easier to source? Because it seems EA81 mounts are made of some rare form of gold rubber and take forever to make. My parts guy at NAPA had nothing for me for an EA81 and my Oreilly's guy had them, but they were a week out and would run me over 50 bucks a pop. So does anybody know if I can fit a different style in the without much hassle? I'd much rather put a style that didn't rely solely on the rubber to stay attached. So say if the rubber failed it would still hold. I've seen some for an (please don't flame me for this, I am sickened enough saying it) *gag* EVO 9 and that was a tube inside a tube design. Now this being said, if the rubber ever fails, the engine would stay in place, make a hell of a racket, but stay in place. And I would be able to re-sleeve the inner portion in watever bushing material I please, making fixing them in the future a lot cheaper and rosier. Now after being long winded and confusing, back to my basic question. Does anyone know of any easy replacement motor mounts for an EA81? Twitch

No offense taken WTdash My engine was just finicky when I put in injectors from a manual when mine was an auto. Just was a fair warning. Now, since you have narrowed it down for us, I think the knock sensor and your IAC are the major offenders. Might want to investigate the MAF as well, but that's only 4 bolts and a big hose clamp. I would clean it while you have it out, just shoot it with some electronics cleaner and you should be golden. Twitch

The code is probably gonna be a knock sensor. And your car is OBD I so that's gonna be a manual check, no scanner involved. The CEL flashes you a code in morse. Not sure what the method is to get those, but a quick search for "CEL* Code Retrieval" should bring up plenty. And yes, you need the * as the search function kicks out 3 letter words and the * acts as a placeholder. Now, since you have mentioned the skip under accel, that sounds like a dead injector, as that was the same exact symptom I had. I can almost guarantee it's a bad injector. Just find a new set of injectors and install them. Junkyards usually only charge like $10-15 per injector, so it's not too expensive to try that out. But a word of warning, make sure you get the injectors for the same engine and transmission, and also the same color if possible, as mine was finicky with injectors from an engine with a different transmission. Twitch

Check out your fuel injectors. It sounds like that injector conked out, or may just be too dirty to provide proper flow. First things first, put half a can of seafoam in your gas tank, it acts like fuel injector cleaner, but better. Then if it still acts up, try pulling the wire on the injector while the car is running. If it gets better, or doesn't change, your injector needs either a rebuild, a more in depth cleaning or to be replaced. Pull the injector and then inspect it to see if there is any junk or gunk on the tip or if the spraying aperture is stuck. If none of this is the case you probably need to have it rebuilt or replaced. It shouldn't cost more than $20 or so to get an injector rebuilt. If you need a replacement, good luck getting one. They're usually $150+ per injector new and finding them in a junkyard is pure chance. If you do find them, grab'em, as they are highly sought after. Twitch

It's very rare for the oil pumps to go completely bad, so I highly suggeat you just rebuild it with new O-rings and clean it thoroughly. It would probably be cheapest to get the mickey mouse o-ring from the dealer and then source the rest of the necessary o-rings from a hydraulics shop. Best way is just to bring it in to the hydraulics shop and let them figure out what size and thickness o-rings you'll need. Twitch

True, but I deliver mail, aka the stop and go driving from hell. So I'm lucky to get 17 Out of anything I drive, be it a Subaru or a Blazer. And if I drive it around town normally, I can maybe eek 20 out of it. It is a 4000+lb rig, so I can't expect too great of gas mileage doing what I do. Twitch

Don't worry about the competent driver factor, I've driven as my job for the last 2 years, in all kinds of weather. I'm experienced to say the least :-p I would go through with that, but having the ABS has been somewhat of a blessing as I often have 2 wheels in the gravel and 2 on the pavement. The vibrating pedal can be irritating, but I'm learning to live with it. It's just no Subaru, and that's my biggest complaint. Twitch

I have considered this option, as I have a 1990 lego sitting waiting for a good shortblock. But I really don't want to have to strip two cars of their wiring harnes, and rewire one. Heh, looks like an ej swap isn't in my future :-p Anyway, I've been hunting and as soon as I can save up for it, I'm gonna begin a full blown search for a JDM Legacy (I already have a thread on it) and import one. They have the same safety equipment as the postal Suby's and therefore are already IIHS legal. So it won't be nearly as difficult as say, a Skyline :-p Twitch

Ok, I've owned subarus exclusively since I bought my first car until now, and haven't driven much else. So anything heavier than 3000Lbs and bigger than a lego is a barge to me :-p Maybe hate is too strong a word. It's definitely not my fave to drive, esp with the 18- MPG. And I meant the - as it rarely gets better than 18 on a good day. I personally don't mind having a gutless wonder. It may take 10-15 seconds to hit sixty, but just getting there sounds and feels like I'm getting up to 100. Yes, I do enjoy being able to give my car hell and barely making it to the speed limit But I digress, the blazer is a decent rig, and that IFS isn't as bump dampening or vibration dampening as I like. It still shudders and shakes when I hit a pothole. And the shocks are good, they were better than the new ones I bought to replace them with And I believe some animosity towards the car is coming from the fact I spend at least 7 hours a day in the thing, when I work that is. But just the total lack of control over anything the car does just bugs me. The lag in acceleration from the auto, the stupid vibrating brake pedal, and that disconnected cushy feeling just make me edgy. If it had ECS I would probably have shoved it back at the dealer the first time it cut me off. If I'm gonna have a RWD I better be able to have fun in it... Twitch