Everything posted by Twitch de la Brat
-
Build page.
Cpt. Stooby, if you scroll all the way to the bottom of the page, there are some links to related threads in a box. Since you can't search via your phone, that's a good spot to go to for extra info. They are often very old threads, as I have seen some from 2004 have pop up there. Also, for your own safety and sanity, don't attack the mods. Its a VERY bad idea. Twitch
-
Front LSD vs a VLSD
The more I read on this, the more I feel it would be a good idea to buy a spare EJ tranny ($80 or so) tear it apart and see what all it will take to get this to go in and shim up. Just so I can put it in my 90 Lego Twitch
-
New to USMB
I seriously want a front bumper like yours. Honestly, as I seem to keep annihilating mine :-\ Twitch
-
W series Toyota trans adaptors
Well then you'd just be a country song (No offense to those who like country, I enjoy it as well ) Twitch
-
Front LSD vs a VLSD
So basically a weekend project with some buddies and a case of your fave brew Sounds like a doable upgrade if you have the skills and time. It may be one of my first tranny splitting experiences I wonder if Monstaru would be willing to help out for a half rack??? Twitch
-
EJ20H swapped Gen3 Brat build Continues Tear down time.
Welp, this puts any swaps I've done to shame :-p Lookin' good Robbie. Hope to see you burn some rubber and tear up the mud pit at WCSS Twitch
-
Front LSD vs a VLSD
Thanks GD. I did a quick search via Yahoo to see what I could come up with. I saw that one. I understand about the massive reaction of the steering wheel. I will definitely be easy on it and get used to it after I get one installed. I have a feeling it will greatly improve the handling and stability of my BRAT and Legacy in low traction situations. Twitch
-
Front LSD vs a VLSD
How much did that front H-LSD cost you? I've been hunting around for one, before going for a rear which would only do me good in 4WD. (Rears are a lot easier to come by as well) Twitch
-
1982 Subaru GL
For $50, just buy it. If it turns out to be junk, and not worth to you to fix, send it onto someone else or junk it for $100-300. Either way its not a bad deal. It should have the EA81 1.8L engine (One of the best Subaru engines EVER) and either a 4 speed dual range 4WD manual, 3 speed single 4WD range auto, 5 speed FWD manual or a 3 speed auto FWD. Dashes crack just from sunlight. EA81 Subarus are infamous for that. Master brake cylinder is located on the firewall by the driver's side strut tower. If you're not sure about the oil, take some cheap oil (cheapest you can get) and pour it into the oil fill spout until it starts reading on the dipstick. Pour it in at 1/2 quart increments. If it takes more than 2 quarts, chances are the engine sat without enough oil to cover the important parts and may have surface rust internally. Engine is iffy at that point. You are correct, the carb resides below the air filter. It is easily looked at through the center of the aircleaner. You can do a quick job of cleaning it by shooting carb cleaner down into it. Since the car has sat for so long, I highly recommend going with Flowmaster87GL's recommendation, and after that pouring half a can of seafoam in the gas tank to clean the lines. If you get this car, there will be lots of help waiting for you over in the Old Gen section. Just don't forget to search before asking too many beginner questions Twitch
-
1982 Subaru GL
I might have a starter floating around from when I did my 5sp swap. Didn't chuck the 4sp starter as far as I know and it was good and strong when I dropped in the new transmission. Oh, and welcome to the board! I'm over in North ID; biggest city near me is Coeur d'Alene. About 3 hours from you. Enjoy your stay and glad we have another loyal Suby owner Twitch
-
My New Ride
Frankenmotor #'s are estimated at 180hp and 200ft lbs of torque. I've read that pretty much all early EJ clutch stuff is the same. So if you get a turbo clutch kit, it should have the same bolt holes as an NA kit. I haven't experienced it myself, but I have read a few threads that warned against getting a lighter weight flywheel, as it would reduce regular driveability because of the loss of rotational mass. You lose rotating mass and it makes it harder to start the car from a stop as your engine has to work harder because it doesn't have all the inertia pushing it. Twitch
-
EJ25D Head Removal
Tensioning everything is usually done by me braving a limb while whacking the end of the breaker bar. The chain idea is awesome. I'll be working on it as soon as I kick this damn cold crap out. Can't do much when you're hacking and feverish. Twitch
-
EJ25D Head Removal
I know the heads are worth a couple hundred around here. I really don't want to damage them. I might just take my bfh to the end of my breaker bar some more. Poor man's impact wrench :-\ As for getting a belt on it, I don't have any used EJ25D belts lying around for a quick swap. Heck, I don't even have any new ones. Sounds like a pound-fest or finding somebody with air impact tools I can borrow. Got a good air compressor, just don't have anything that can apply as much torque as me bouncing on a breaker bar. Twitch
-
EJ25D Head Removal
Its the Phase 1 DOHC EJ25 Yeah, I know, but the engine didn't come with a belt. It was a replacement that someone didn't want. 95 or 105k on it, the guy didn't specify Yep, the 1" wrench is on those flat spots. Its braced against a cinderblock and I'm really giving the bolt hell. GD, I only need the block, so its not a big deal if something breaks, but I really don't want to ruin anything on the cams or the heads if it isn't necessary. They're low mile (as mentioned earlier) and would be a shame to bust anything on them. *sigh* I might just have to break out the torch and an even bigger pipe extension for the breaker bar. Twitch
-
EJ25D Head Removal
I've tried and tried, and I can't get the cam sprocket off. Is the bolt left hand threaded or what? I've got a 1" wrench on the cam and a breaker bar on the pulley bolt, and I'm afraid of damaging the cam if I apply any more force to it. I don't have any impact tools at my disposal and I'm sick of beating on my breaker bar and having to reef on it with a pipe extension. Are there any hints tips or tricks to getting the head bolts out without removing the cams? I don't have any shallow enough wobblies to get in there, nor any sockets that fit under the cams with anything attached. Twitch
-
Will these rims work on my 1988 gl hatch???
It's actually 6x139.7 Just about anything that fits 6 lug Isuzu, Nissan, Toyota and Chevy, will fit. Twitch
-
Cleaned it out too well
There are a couple ways to run seafoam. One is in the oil (as the OP did) and another to put it in the gas. If you put it in the gas, you won't have the seafoam coming enough contact with the oil to cause any issues like what DJ is experiencing. It will do a good job of cleaning your fuel system, with a very low likelihood of causing more problems. As for DJ, hey don't feel bad. I did the same thing to my lego :-\ If it starts sucking oil like mad, in addition to blowing blue smoke, I recommend just putting junk oil in and changing your filter more often. Also, blowing oil in through the PCV valve is fixed by a $3 new PCV vale from the auto parts store. Twitch
-
Ethanol Free Gas!
Hmmm, well, I have found a contradictory result in some vehicles, such as my BRAT. If I get the E10 mid-grade stuff, my fuel mileage goes up 2-3 mpg. But, it did have a fairly fresh carb on it when I bought it. I have also found a bump in fuel mileage in my 90 Lego of 2-4 mpg (depending on driving conditions) when using E10 mid-grade (this was before my rings imploded). I have used E10 for a while, and have yet to see and negative consequences from it, other than slightly reduced mpg's from just using regular E10. Twitch
-
BRAT Meet 2011 Planning
The likelihood of me making this is low. I'm probably going to be starting up a new job here pretty soon, and with that, I don't think they'd appreciate me asking for time off so soon :-\ I'm doing my best to figure out a way to get there, promise. Twitch
-
Well ... I may have finally done it ...
That whole setup cost me $5 or so including the 15ft of 10 guage wire, box of clips and fuse. And I was able to use the rest of the wire on other things, so over all, in just materials, it cost me maybe $3. Its not unsafe, as the box is right up next to the hood, I don't submerge my car, so nothing needs excessive waterproofing, and I can replace a fuse in a minute or less if I blow it. It works well for me and I don't think GD would do too much chastising for it... Twitch PS: if you want more waterproofing, just tape up the holes in the box, and tada, no water gets in. Hell, silicone it if you're that worried. PPS: Its a 60a fuse, so it can handle stock alt loads, but if anything starts to overcharge it cuts it off.
-
Meet Stanley the wonder Van
Not ready yet, still looking for work. But I will let you know when I'm ready to. I want a 360, but not a micro car Twitch
-
Well ... I may have finally done it ...
Like this? And it sounds like you have the power wire is grounding itself somewhere. Or you're trying to run too much current through your wiring harness. Those are the only things I've known to blow that fuse, minus a VR that goes wonky and majorly overcharges the battery. And that's only on an upgraded alt. Twitch
-
Does any one make a locker for a Suby?
^^^^ Twitch
-
fuseible link box
I just replaced mine with a stereo type fuse. 4 10 gauge spade connectors (female ends) and a matching or comparable stereo fuse. Like that. I cut a hole in the top of the fuse box cover just big enough for the wires to pop through and and bent the fuse over the side to keep it out of the way. No problems so far. Twitch
-
Does any one make a locker for a Suby?
Just a thought. Has anyone thought about modifying the inner axle stub, that is located on the hub? I haven't pulled one apart, ever, but if it's hollow, as it seems to be, if someone were to cut that off, set up some bearings to ride inside that and insert another shaft inside that. Then figure out a pin setup that won't shear under the strain of offroading. Such as a grade 8 bolt, or something. This could also apply to a diff stub, as I know may offroaders know how to unbolt and bolt on a new stub shaft in a few minutes, if that. You could eliminate the pin requirement and just swap stub shafts when you get to the offroad area. Now I'm not saying this is the end all be all of solutions. It will obviously require a lathe, spare metal, a spare hub and time and skill by the builder. I would say I've tried this, or I'm going to try this, but right now, even though I have the time, I don't have the means or the resources nor the skills to do this. I'm just trying to throw out fresh ideas for those with resources and skills to attempt if they wish. I will be attempting this as soon as I weld my diff and have the resources to try it. Twitch
