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Olnick

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Everything posted by Olnick

  1. Just looked back a subiegal's pictures. Gosh, if they'd raised the headlights even higher they could've made that wannabe Alfa Romeo grill even bigger! Can't wait to actually see one on the road. I mean they can't be as ugly in real life as they are in pictures. Can they?
  2. Agree with ShawnW--you'd be wise to change the timing belt, replace the crank and cam seals and reseal the oil pump (tighten the backplate screws, new o-ring and sealant). Might want to replace the waterpump while you're in there too, a good preventative measure. Search the board--there's a lot of good info here.
  3. The "click-click-clicking" you're hearing could be the copper contacts in the starter. They pit and wear away over the years and eventually won't make enough contact to feed electricity to the starter motor. They can be replaced--new contacts are realtively inexpensive--but you have to remove the starter to get to them. It's not as difficult as it sounds! There have been write-ups about it here on the board. A search should turn up a lot of information. And if you need help, just ask! Good luck.
  4. Way to go, Roger Soderberg of Sweden! I wonder if he knows he's becoming a celebrity over here?
  5. Good going. She will! The hoses are most likely okay. If you're worried about the fluid just suck some more out, maybe over the next few weekends, and keep adding new. Pretty soon it'll be virtually "fresh" fluid.
  6. Ruth--if I were you I'd try to find an independent shop and talk to them about the problem. Get recommendations from friends or coworkers. What part of Alaska are you in? There are several board members up there--maybe they have suggestions. Good luck and keep us posted.
  7. Try setright's suggestion first--it'd be the cheapest way and might improve the steering at least partially. A collapsed hose seems doubtful but I guess anything is possible. Good luck.
  8. When my power steering started growling and the steering wheel began "stuttering" a bit, I didn't know that rebuild kits were available. Ordered a brand new pump, about $130 IIRC from 1stsubaruparts, and it went in quite easily--it's certainly in an easy to reach position! Immediately cleared up the problems.
  9. Guys--not to be a "told-you-so," but I posted the location of that relay a week ago (post #22)! The 3-in-a-row relays are not in the fuse BOX, but are on the same PANEL, at the top. Reason01, if you got the middle relay out can you now swap one of the other relays into that position? If the lights work then you'll know that it was, in fact, a bad relay.
  10. Uhhh . . . nighty-night, sleep tight? (Sorry, Cougar, I couldn't resist. I musta' bailed just before you posted that!)
  11. Cougar--I think it's the middle one of the three above the interior fuse box. That's if you trust Haynes!
  12. I agree with cookie's take on it. The price is good and the car sounds very attractive. But you would still have to burn premium fuel and there's always that slightly higher risk of expensive problems. If you are still interested in a Subaru and a car's "maturity" doesn't bother you, I'd still suggest a Legacy model, 1990 through '96. (After 1996 they redesigned the good old bulletproof 2.2L and it became an "interference" engine!)
  13. Check the fuse box cover (the box by your left knee), it has the fuse names printed on it. They are also listed in your owners manual. I think it's #5.
  14. I love the early Legacy 2.2s but they are old cars now Sorry, Cookie, but I prefer to think of my '95 as . . . mature.
  15. Autumn--welcome to the board. You have a beautiful name! In my opinion, and based on your desire to help your daughter with dependable transportation, I'd shy away from the car. It was the first year of the 2.5L engine and does require higher octane gas (higher compression ratio I believe.) And if and when the timing belt goes, you are in "deep kim chee." It's an "interference" type engine and, as it has already done, will cause very expensive damage to the top end when the pistons and valves collide. 'Course that may never happen again, you never know. But by-and-large Subarus are beautifully designed and well put together vehicles. I've driven them for over 20 years and love 'em. Would suggest a better buy for you would be a Legacy model, any year up through 1996. They have what is often called a "bulletproof" 2.2L engine. With normal care they seem to run forever. And if a timing belt breaks, generally no massive damage (they are a "non-interference" engine.) I'm sure the '96 Outback is a lovely vehicle but--again just my opinion--I'd let it go and look for a decent Legacy. My own daughter picked up a '92 Legacy sedan a year ago and I swear it runs better than my '95 wagon! Hope this helps. Any other questions, just ask. The people on this board are a fantastic resource.
  16. How many miles on your car? How much are you willing to invest? I'd suggest getting in touch with Emily at CCR--company with an excellent reputation and I think she'd give you the straight skinny. (She's on this board if you want her address.) Good luck whichever way you go.
  17. Never retreat, Brus. Always try to move forward. How much have you driven since you ran the Seafoam? Actually I don't think it would do any harm--kinda' like a super heavy dose. Maybe that's what you need after 5 years. Wouldn't get in the once-a-day habit though. Any other opinions?
  18. I drive a 2.2L--'95 Legacy L wagon AWD with 5-spd manual, 106k miles. Averaged 21.7 mpg over the last 8 months in nearly 100% stop-and-go city driving. Maybe that's the best I can expect. AWD will never make for super economy. Then I fondly think back on my '85 GL--2WD, sweet little 1.8L, 25 to 27 mpg in virtually the same driving conditions!
  19. What's your mileage? From what I understand, they do "weaken" with age--may not be apparent in driving but could affect fuel consumption. I don't think a weaking O2 sensor would throw a code until it's really bad (could be wrong though.) Just changed mine recently and am hoping the mpgs improve!
  20. You still got that cute little dimple? (On your bumper, man. Your BUMPER!)
  21. Okay, curiosity got the better of me, so I grabbed a flashlight when I got home and crawled under the dash. When you remove the cover of the interior fuse "box" the board, or backing plate, that the fuses plug into extends higher up--in the direction of the left corner of the windshield (looking from the driver's position.) It's ivory colored plastic in my '95 Legacy. At the very top of that board is a row of 3 black relays. If Haynes is right, the middle one should be the "Tail Illumination Relay." Could see what looked like a latching mechanism at the base of the relay but couldn't get my fingers in there to release it. Hope this helps and . . . good luck!
  22. Good question. It's most likely somewhere near the interior fuse box--the one under the dash near your left knee. You never did identify the year/model of your Subaru, so I'm just guessing that they're all pretty much the same layout. It's a mess of wires, connectors and boxes under there. Look for a mounting board with three small relays in a row across the top. The middle one should be the "Tail Illumination Relay." Once again . . . good luck!
  23. Just checked my Haynes--there's a pretty good schematic (Chapter 12-32). shows TWO fuses, one relay and the light combination switch all affect the tail light circuit. In the Main Fuse Box (the one under the hood behind the battery) check Fuse 23, it's a 20 amp. Under the dash, by your left knee, check Fuse 5 (10 amp) and the "Tail Illumination Relay." After the under-dash fuse box it should be red wires that feed the tail lights, side marker lights and front clearance lights, all basically the same circuit. I don't pretend to be a wiring genius, but those are the places I'd look first. Good luck.

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