Olnick

Thanks, gbhrps. I think you're probably right--puts my mind at ease hearing someone else say it though! Will try the salvage route, but they're notoriously light on Subie parts here. Guess that's a good sign! Aloha.

LOL, frag. Great response!

Ain't it a great feeling to "fix" something, no matter what causes the problem?!! Good going, Lawsonmh15.

What year? What tranny? How many miles? What color is it? Details, details, details!

Driver's side headlight on my '95 Legacy L wagon was cutting out every once in awhile. Wiggling the wiring/connector made it work okay, so I knew the lamp was good. Tried to remove the rubber boot and it tore apart--the middle part had been cooked to the back of the plastic connector! When I finally got the connector out, one of the plugs (the top one where the yellow/blue wire terminates) was totally destroyed--burnt out and melted away. Must have been a spectacular flash . . . the black plastic looked like a lava field, a'a on the surface and pahoehoe below! Anyone ever experience this? Why would there be a short in such a protected area?

They really look great, starkiller. I think the size and proportion are perfect for the Outback. What size rubber do you have on them?

Good going, FreeLegacy--am happy that you're giving it a shot. I think you are approaching the top bolt the best way, soaking with WD40 or penetrating oil. Try a short pipe extension on your socket handle (is that what you meant by "breaker bar?") Might even try a few taps on the handle/extender with a hammer, kinda' like a pneumatic wrench. Tap both ways (loosening and tightening directions) but don't get carried away--if you shear off the bolt head it'd be a real bear to drill out. The bottom nut, in my opinion, is best reached from underneath the car. You may need an extension for the socket, can't remember. Hopefully the bottom will not be as corroded or "frozen up" as the top. Oh, and please don't work under the car while it's on the car jack. Get ramps or block it up carefully with something solid. Luckily you don't need to get it too high to get under! Good luck and let us know how it's going.

Very good, mtsmiths, very good. You speak da'kine well. So how long you stay go? Yes, depending on the time of day you'd be lucky to make Mililani in an hour. I drive 8 miles to work, Kuliouou to Kapiolani near Ala Moana Center--15 to 20 minutes during the summer, but next week UH, Punahou and Iolani all start classes, Yikes! I'll allow an hour 'til everyone settles into their patterns. But the big question is . . . where the heck do you find okolehau in Montana?!! Alo-o-o-o-ha!

Just funnin' with you, Gnuman. I really envy you the road trip. Shoot, if I drive more than an hour in one direction I'm all wet! One of my greatest joys is getting loose for a few days on the mainland and just driving off the beaten path. Last year after my daughter graduated from college, we helped her buy a '92 Legacy sedan, AWD 5MT, then proceeded to put a thousand miles on it--backroads all over Washington state. Up the Sagit River valley, over the top, stopping at every scenic point and marveling at the beauty, then down to Grand Coulee and on into Spokane. Ahh, the wonderful memories! Keep smiling . . . keep enjoying.

Gnuman--must have been a fantastic adventure, and proof that the earliest Legacies are perhaps Subaru's finest efforts. You might want to check that odometer, however!!! All the best to you.

Edrach--where did you find the serial numbers? Top of the clutch housing on the driver's side? When I checked my '95 Legacy all I saw was a 6 digit number, no 2 digit prefix, no "BB" or "CC".

And before you lay out any bills for a solenoid, try replacing the copper contacts in the solenoid--couple of bucks at an auto-electric shop or from Subaru parts. Also suggest search here on the forum under "starter"--been several write-ups over the past year. Good luck.

So Tim, what are we going to do while Cougar eats dinner?

Wow, Tim, I feel for you. You must be dying to get out on the open road with that beautiful new engine! Did you put a brand new sensor in or re-use the one that was in the old engine? Is the electrical connector clean and tight? Wire look okay? Listen to Cougar--he's the electrical wizard! Guess it's time to go back to Autozone and make sure it really is the same code. Wish I could be more help but I'm sure you'll track it down. Good luck.

Interesting observation, jimscat! So . . . did the temp sensor help? I find it fascinating that one reasonably priced, relatively easily replaced sensor can make such a positive difference in engine operation!

I've never heard of it either!!! Aloha.

I did get a code, PO115 I think, that alerted me to replace the sensor. Frag--I think the codes you quoted are for Fuel temperature sensor, at least that's what Haynes says.

I'm no expert, but! You might need to replace the pulley itself. If the key and crank are chewed up I believe it's possible to have the crank end built-up with metal and a new keyway ground in. Try doing a search of the forum--it's been discussed in some detail before. Good luck.

Good suggestion, 1 Lucky Texan. It's amazing to me how many rough running problems can be traced to this one sensor (the engine coolant temp sensor.) I know a new one sure helped me. Midwst--if you're truly impressed with the car ask the guy if he'll spring for a new sensor (it's only about $20) just to "prove" the car runs well. May be worth a try. Good luck.

Ain't it the truth! Hang in there, starfire--you can do it! And if you get hung up, just come back and keep asking questions. Great bunch of "helpers" here! Good luck.

Tried to do more research on this . . . alas, to little avail! Searched under "EJ22 History" and found a great "Technical Reference Booklet" that feret provided back in June and Legacy777 made available for download on his site--a wonderful resource for Subie lovers, really good pix and graphics, organized chronologically, very thorough. Except for the one thing anyone would want to know: How to identify the engine! On page 29 it states what most of us know--the 2.2L was "enhanced" in 1997 and that "this eliminates the clearance that was available between the piston at TDC and a fully opened valve." Compression ratio had been increased from 9.5:1 to 9.7:1 in 1996. But they still called it a "2.2L Phase 1" engine, same designation as the original EJ22s. "Phase 2" didn't arrive 'til 1999 along with a boost to 10:1 compression ratio. The sixth character in the s/n identifies the engine type, a "6" indicates the 2.2L. Edrach, does your '97 have a "6" as the sixth character? I really think you may be onto something with your CC vs. BB observation. But there's absolutely no mention of it in the booklet. So I guess my question becomes . . . why the heck wouldn't Subaru provide such basic valuable information to people who need to know?!! Sorry for the long ramble. Good luck, edrach. I assume you're going to be changing the Impreza's timing belt soon!

Can't be much help with the eyes, Tom, but will certainly offer a prayer for a safe journey. Me Ka Aloha Pumehana.

Edrach, I agree totally with your logic about NON-interference engines (which is why I love my '95 Legacy.) But I have a question re your '97 Impreza: Based on the assumption that Subaru changed the 2.2L to an interference design in l997, how can you be sure "It is definitely a non-interference engine?" Is there some way to visually inspect? Did Subaru retain the "original" EJ22 in Imprezas longer than they did in Legacies? My fear (and I hope I'm wrong for your sake) is that '97 model year vehicles started manufacture in the last half of 1996, thus your car would be the "new", i.e. interference, design. Any insights you have would be appreciated.

It was enough for everyone else . . . but not me, I guess! Sincere apologies.

Just an offhand thought, but could it be the other belt--the alternator/power steering belt--that is causing the squeal?