Olnick

So . . . ya gonna change your handle now, Buckie? Congratulations!

Check with the dealership then call Subie Gal (Jamie), she's a regular on this board, to compare prices. Another less expensive approach would be to find one in a salvage yard. Good luck.

DL92SW, your princess is indeed a beauty.

I agree with you, langosta39, and like you I have calculated my mpgs for many years--with a great deal of accuracy I might add. While extraneous factors could certainly affect one "human" calculation, they begin to average out with your second set of numbers. Pretty soon they become statistically insignificant!

Best way to do the top end is to warm up the engine, remove the vacuum hose from the brake booster, then pour 1/3 of a can of Seafoam into a small, clean container (like an empty yogurt cup). With the motor running dip the hose into the juice--it'll suck right in. It can tend to stall out the engine so you might have to work the throttle cable a bit to keep it running. When the cup is empty shut the motor off and let it sit for 5 minutes. Then start her up and enjoy the show! I also put about 1/3 of a can in the fuel tank too. By the way--in my opinion you don't have to time this to an oil change. Upper cylinder cleaning has no effect on your oil. Others may disagree so make your own decision. As far as using it in your crankcase, I've never done that. And probably never will--I just have this thing about not adulterating the oil. Good luck . . . and have fun!

Well shoot, Setright--certainly sounds reasonable to me! Thanks.

Strongly suggest you look for any stored codes before you do anything else, otherwise you're just throwing parts (and money) at the problem with no assurance it'll do any good. To pull codes you need an OBDII scanner or access to one. Dealers and shops will charge you for the service (sometimes an arm and a leg.) Some chain parts stores, like Autozone, will pull codes for free--you might call around to see. As for deciphering the codes, they are listed in the Haynes manual. May even be listed here on the board, I'm not sure. Worst case, post it here and someone will be sure to look it up for you. Back to your IACV: If it seemed to turn freely maybe it's okay. They're expensive, so it might be wasted money to pursue that route. By the way, I wouldn't worry too much about the adjustment--unless it really runs badly afterward. I read the same warnings--but why did they design it with slotted adjustment holes then? Coolant temperature sensor is a possible solution. New one helped my '95 Legacy tremendously, but I had a specific code that pointed to the problem. It's a $20 or so part, so at least it's not an outlandish price if you do want to try it. At any rate, good luck. And if you have anymore questions just ask.

Nice job Lawsonmh15! Nice presentation--great pictures and thoughtful captioning. In fact your whole engine bay looks good. And yes, I believe! Maybe you've given me the incentive to get off my duff and do the same thing. Any hints on how to find all the grounding points? Did you have some kind of diagram or just eyeball them? Thanks for sharing.

Cookie, sender is at top front of engine block, facing up. Look down between alternator and power steering pump and it's right there. (Unless they moved it on the phase 2s!) Let us know how the installation goes.

Wow, you might have checked that belt at just the right time! I agree with frag that it could be early sign of water pump problem. Probably the perfect time to do the front end overhaul. How many miles on the car? Good luck.

Thanks DAlgie and Scottbaru, appreciate the explanations. Makes sense to me that the tapered roller is a higher capacity bearing, but doesn't the greater contact area imply more friction or resistance as compared to a ball? How big are the rollers in Subie bearings anway (length, end diameters)? I agree the "scuffing" of an angular contact ball sounds bad. Is there some benefit (or logic) to designing a bearing with angular contact? What would be the alternative--parallel contact faces? Thanks again for indulging me guys.

Gosh, I feel like an idiot but better to ask then to be prideful, do it wrong and be sorry! Don't feel like an idiot. You just demonstrated what a wise person you are! Good luck with the rest of the job.

This is fascinating stuff, guys. I'll probably never touch a bearing in my life but I'm learning so much. The "essence" of an automobile is that it can move us from A to B. If it can do so with the least rolling resistance it is simply so much more efficient and useful to us. I've always felt that good bearings are the heart of an efficient, useful tool--in this case, a car. Egads, I'm writing an Ode to a Bearing! Forgive me, but the topic really grabbed my interest. DAlgie, your comment above intrigues me. Why do you think tapered rollers are better?

Fast thinking, tcspeer! And right on. How about a fuel guage? I mean one that works properly (Yeah, I drive a '95 Legacy and it has never told me the truth!) Seriously, Texan, you pose an excellent question. Even if the ECU is controlling everything I, as a human being (nominally), want to be informed of operating status as much as possible. "Early warning" is invaluable. Oil Pressure would be nice, I really miss that. Oil Temp too. An Ammeter. Maybe even a Volt Meter. How about a Vacuum Pressure guage? Never had one but I think it's something I'd like to watch. (Or is it even necessary on a "modern" engine?) Am anxious to know what others think. This should be a great thread.

Mulcheese, you are on the right track. Have you tried pulling codes? IACV cleaning and Coolant Temp Sensor replacement made a big difference for me (on a '95 Legacy L). Both are located in the same area, under the Throttle Body and workable from over the passenger side front fender--I'm guessing it's pretty much the same on your '97 Impreza. The Haynes "1990-98 Legacy" manual might help. Also try an advanced search here--"IACV" in New Generation. It's been discussed quite a bit. If that doesn't help, come back and ask more questions! Good luck.

"Just bought a 92 Legacy. Love it." Welcome. You got yourself an excellent vintage--92 was a very good year. Tell us about it--wagon, sedan? Mileage? Tranny? Color?!!

As Josh mentioned, a weak coolant temperature sensor can cause some weird idle/stall problems--replacing mine made a great difference. How about PCV? Idle Air Control Valve? Throttle cable? Fuel filter? Air filter? Wish I could be of more help. Good luck.

Looks very nice, Suzam. What are they, 16"?

I guess chilly b is really enjoying his new car!!!

I emailed this information to phastings but thought I'd post it here for what it's worth. What I got is called a "Socket/Pigtail Assembly"--found it at Carquest, part # "S-526." Most parts stores probably have something similar, essentially a generic socket to fit a halogen lamp. Y' just gotta' get the counterguy's nose out of the vehicle specific catalogs so he can go and actually look for it!!!

Betcha' it's the contacts inside the starter solenoid. Relatively simple and cheap fix. Search under starter and contacts--should be lots of info. Good luck.

Unfortunately, no. The 2.2 went through some design changes for MY '97--for one thing it became an interference type engine, which means you'll have to be religious about timing belt changes. The manual will probably be helpful in general but expect some differences as you look around under the hood. Keep searching and studying here in the forums and you'll learn a lot, but it will take some digging! At any rate, good luck.

'96 is last year for non-interference. '97 is first year for interference.

Thanks Gnuman. It's a '95 but I would venture a guess that they're all the same.

Hmmm, total cost $.01. Guess you don't need my $.02 then!