Olnick

This thread is great. I think we all needed it!

Great line! I've done the exact same thing. Sounds like you dodged a bullet there. Good luck.

Do you happen to have an extra one of those chips lying around?

Really appreciate the continuing input, guys! Am beginning to wonder myself if it might be a bearing. Unfortunately my li'l gal is stuck in bed with the flu and hasn't been able to get out and drive the last few days. But we talked about the bearing possibility--she'll let me know as soon as she has a chance to do some more listening. Will post as soon as I know more. Aloha.

Mahalo--thanks--everyone for the very helpful information. Since it's not likely to lead to catastrophic failure we'll monitor it very closely for the next little while. Will suggest that she change the gear oil for now. Grossgary--I really don't know what it sounds like, other than it's not a loud gear-crunching sound! She described it as a "revolving" or "rotating" sound, which made her think wheel/brake problem. Sometimes it's louder than other times. Will keep you posted as we go along. Again, mahalo nui loa.

Thanks for the quick responses, guys. You've put my mind much more at ease (and you know that means a lot to a dad!) Reassuring to know that we have some reasonable options and probably some time. I'll talk to her later today and try to get a better description of the noise--it's not real loud, but it's enough to catch her attention and concern her. Will post back when I have more info. USMB is the greatest!

Need some input, friends. My daughter's '92 Legacy sedan AWD MT has developed an intermittent noise in the rear end. We thought it might be rear brakes but she took it to a mechanic today and he tracked it down to the rear diff. Checked inside and said oil seemed okay, no debris. Any insights or suggestions? Anyone had a rear diff go bad? What's the best fix--swap in a used one? And how much work is that?!! Daughter's in Spokane, WA and very sad. I'm in Honolulu and very frustrated that I can't run to help her fix her favorite Subie! Thanks for any help. Aloha.

The only lube points are the guides that allow the caliper to slide freely for braking and releasing. When you remove the bottom bolt swing the caliper up and then slide it back to reveal the top guide pin. Remove the rubber boots and give them and the pin a thorough cleaning. Then pop the rubber boots and pull the bushing out that the bottom bolt went through. When I did mine last week I was shocked at how dry they were--I had suspected a bit of "drag" in my brakes for awhile and assume that was why. After cleaning, coat the sliding surfaces with high temperature caliper brake grease. I got some at NAPA, comes in little packets. Then reassemble. Now, believe it or not, I'm enjoying stops in traffic!!! An hoping it improves my mpg too.

Phugoid--any luck yet?

I just changed brake pads on all 4 wheels last weekend, and believe me--if I can do it anyone can! Not difficult at all. Find a Haynes manual, it has pictures and step-by-step instructions. Cost me about $95 for the pads. As for the rotors, eyeball them and run your fingers across them. If they're deeply grooved and rough you might want to have them resurfaced (or even replace them with new) but I'll bet they're not too bad at 45k. Ask questions here on the board if you're unsure. Good luck.

Whadaya mean, joke? I often clean and wax my alloy rims and I can assure you I've never had a problem with snow buildup. Aloha.

Just to clarify re the PS pump: The reservoir is the metal canister on top, the return line feeds into the side of it (at least it does on my '95 Legacy L). The pump is the cast metal device below, the one with the pulley--it has the output line connected to it. Can you tell if fluid is leaking out between the reservoir and the pump? If so it's most likely the o-ring between the two that's leaking. Suck the fluid out of the reservoir and remove it--two bolts, one inside the reservoir and one at the base. Check it out in a Haynes manual. You may not even have to remove the pump itself. Hope that's the root of your problem. Good luck.

Yeah, after I posted that I went back to Mapquest, went in closer and found roads! Must be a beautiful place, especially from behind the wheel of your new Roo. Good buy and I'm sure you'll get all those "little things" fixed up. Aloha--from one islander to another.

About 1/3 of a can, IIRC. Follow instructions on the can--might even search here on the board for different suggestions. Let it sit for 5 or 10 minutes then fire her up and enjoy the show! Good luck.

Lookin good, Island Roo! What year is it? My daughter has a '92 sedan that is a dream to drive. Like the wheels too--15 inchers? I just pulled up Quadra Island on Mapquest--didn't see any roads! So where do you drive?!! Anyway, good luck with your new ride.

Just did a quick search of "power steering pump." Seems the most common failure is the o-ring between the reservoir and pump body. Total fix, $.30. If this works . . . please don't tell me!!!

Geez, that's awful! I seem to remember paying about $130 just a year or two ago--from 1stsubaruparts too. You might want to check your local salvage yards or look into overhauling your present pump.

Depends on how fast you want to turn the car over, srponies. My suggestion would be to take your time, get to know the car and its idiosynracies, do the simplest things first. Nipper made some good suggestions. Also search and study here on the board--there's a wealth of information available. Don't just assume the engine and/or tranny are toast until you can get it drivable and prove it to yourself! And remember, while you and many of us Subie-junkies may see the 2.2 swap as a good way to go, what will a potential buyer think? They may see it as a "step down!" Anyway--ask lotsa' questions and good luck.

It might well be your power steering pump, Phugoid. Happened to me awhile back--don't remember any odd sounds but the steering started to feel jumpy, it would "judder" on turns. I put a new pump on (not too difficult--everything is up front where you can reach it) and solved the problem. There are pump overhaul kits available I think, but I didn't know about them at the time so I just bought a brand new one. Hope it's as simple as that. Good luck.

Yikes Brandon, you have every right to vent. I'd be plenty PO'd too. Sounds like this guy doesn't know what he's doing. My suggestion: Write up a "log" of everything that happened--dates, times, his statements, prices quoted--make it a "timeline" of what happened, including your being stranded late at night and having to be rescued by AAA. Keep it totally unemotional. Just state the facts as they happened. You can do it--you're good with words. Then take that and proof the car is a '95 (owner's manual or VIN # should suffice) and sit down with him and go over it. Try to get him to sign it (he probably won't!) Demand satisfaction--car fixed properly at original quoted price--or you'll take it to your local Better Business Bureau (BBB) AND file report with your state Consumer Protector AND, if necessary, contact a lawyer. I hate to dump on a little guy indy shop owner but this is a dollars-and-cents issue . . . YOUR dollars-and-cents. Your safety too. Good luck and keep us up on your progress.

Any brand ATF (Automatic Transmission Fluid) should be okay. Check your owner's manual to see what specific kind you need--or if you don't have the manual, just go to an auto parts store and ask--they should be able to look it up for you. Good luck.

Wow! Fascinating stuff, OB99W--although I confess I didn't read every word! If the engineers & scientists can base safety systems on wheel speed based management, who am I to argue with them? It must work. My only question is, why?!! Don't mean to impinge on your time and good nature, but care to venture even a super-simplified explanation? Thanks.

Thanks, Tex!

The concept of "uneven tires" has intrigued me for a long time so I can't resist throwing in my $.02. As I see it, the circumference of a radial can't change. Steel belts cannot stretch or shrink by 1/8" or 1/16" or any amount! What does change is the functional geometrics of the tire. Consider the extremes: An overly inflated tire will contain the extra pressure by ballooning the sidewalls while a flat tire will collapse the sidewall and practically allow the rim to touch the ground. The contact patch has varied wildly--but the circumference hasn't changed. Measuring the distance from the center of the hub to the ground is not really measuring the radius because the tire is not a "perfect circle" (if it ever was!) Thus the only uneven factor in a tire is the thickness of the rubber in the tread. Does this make sense to anyone else or is my logic faulty? Aloha.