mickytrus

P0106 Pressure Sensor Circuit Range Problem P0301 Cylinder 1 Misfire Detected P0302 Cylinder 2 Misfire Detected P0303 Cylinder 3 Misfire Detected P0304 Cylinder 4 Misfire Detected Looks like from the codes more like an ignition problem rather than a fuel problem.... Pressure sensor circuit range problem? Any thoughts?????? Perhaps, like above..... someone said.. check timing belt...... I should probably do that..... Open for suggestions.... Thanks....

Is there a way to test the throttle body positioning sensor..???? Yeah, could be that... make sense.... like can I check it for resistance... or continuity...... through the connectors what usually craps out on them... Here are the codes: p0106 p0301 p0302 p0303 p0304

Thanks all very good points taken... I got to spend some time yesterday.... I towed it out of the library and back to the owner's home.... So I get ther... I starts up just fine.... Then.... you step on gas pedallll... and it is like this: Boooooowah Booooowah.... really that is pretty much the extent of it....... cant even put it in gear...... So with a toe rope.... get it back to the house.... and somehow I miraculously massage gas pedal and it runs like this.... wubah wubah wubah..... into its parking spot...... No Joke.... on the expressions..... So I left it momentarily.... came back a little while later... and just checked out some things... The observation is this... Again.... idles fine.... once the throttle plate changes position.... the car is doomed.... like there is no more fuel being dumped into the car even though I am asking for it........ and if I put the accelarator to Wide open throttle...... It doesn't stall... it pretty much just runs like terd.... won't stall out..... I feel at WOT.... it is getting tons of AIR but, the same amount of fuel..... no more fuel than at idle..... Someone mentions check fuel pressure..... How would this be done? a special tool/gauge? If you could let me know.... seems like this is a good thing to establish at this point...... If there is anything else that may indicate other areas to check let me know.... Micky

It has been a while Since I put it on... they could... may have been beck or standard..... Coilpacks NKG plugs..... So luko if burned up your Cat? What happened after the cat burned up? was the cat clogged? Ill get some more details.... go and look at the car....

So the car idles fine. had a tune up new coil pack and runs bad.... no power..... feels retarded... or maybe the (Cat is clogged kind of feeling) It has less than 120K on it.... It spits back some codes... from what I was told the codes refer to misfire.... but everything ingnition wise is replaced....(meaning plugs,coil pak, wires, plugs) Some ideas would be nice... What to check and perhaps how to check.... Thanks, Micky

If your changing oil..... find some topography to drive over...... topography??(*&^(*&^(& Like maybe there is a low spot in pavement you can park over perhaps a gutter(road gutter) pull up on a curb....... you get the picture.

How many foot pounds of torque did you tighten the bearing to.....? you mention that you only put the spindle in?

I am on my fifth loyale..... 90's version.... the wagons would get 30 alldaylong... the sedan got 35.................... recently pulled out the clutch fan. and yanked the AC.... I am curious.. if I will see an improvement. I will post if I do...... All these vehicles where 5speeds.

Ok. I'll take a look at the pan... I did reseal the pump when I did the regasket job... mickeymouse seal, o-ring and the impeller shaft seal. Do these pumps where out? The upper end is quiet now... so I am thinking the oil pressure is sufficient.

It was cold out this morning. The motor was not knocking till it warmed up... In first gear is the greatest demand, the engine is under load the most. I always experience a brutal vibration like a grating sound... growling....... just below 3 grand........ so I shift... (drive like a ancient person). This morning, the motor like I said was cold, pulled out right away...... She shifted and the grating noise was not there....... Anyway, I would like to think that I have a rod bearing problem... but, if I look at the crank pulley it is not spinning true anymore. This lends me to think that the main bearings have become worn..... Yeah, keep your experiences coming. Just good to know. Yeah, too bad I let this motor go... I'll have to baby it.

That is kind of what I am thinking now.... I think I will start with getting an engine stand.... I am thinking.... I have two spare motors.... laying around.... One had blowby... 285k and going strong. just pushed oil everywhere..... The other has 220K on it.... been in a coma for real long time.... How do costs run on stock rebuilds. When you do the work yourself...... Is it cost effective? I know on the educational side I would benefit.... I have not done honing of cylinders and ring and bearing replacement but, would consider it if there was some good vids... and instructionals... If anyone can send any links in this post..

Yeah, This motor leaked like a pig...... starved of oil.most of its life.... I would run it a quart high.... (seemed to help with lash adjuster tap)..... I always kept oil in it while I had it. but, it just didn't get pumped around well.... I added engine oil stabilizer just to keep it from dripping out...... So anyway, just wondering if anyone has had gone through any experience with motors with lower end knock...... AND what was the life expectancy. Maybe even an elixir bandaid........ Basically, the car runs good.... now that it is all sealed up...(new gaskets) It is just that when under load, seems like the motor growls and vibrates...... And upon observation... I got to say, it looks like the(from the crank pully) the crank don't spin that true anymore...... I am gonna probably have to get a backup motor... ready.... but, I was wondering on some feedback/ideas/experiences... thanks

Definetely make sure you don't have a vacuum leak.. check hoses for dryrot cracks... Listen for hissing/whistling. for now just get the revs up enough to set the timing to specification... I was timing mine last night.... it really doesn't like to run anywhere but 20 btdc.... even at like 10btdc is chugs...

So car is running and using the nipple concept so the ac is not there anymore. Works ok... belt is straight...... and I was able to use the same belt(though almost at the end of its adjustment). I would say a new belt 1/2 in or 1" smaller would be good....:cool:

Thanks for the Link M.o.t.M. I finally got the car back together and running...(regasket job and timing belt) Now I can see how the car does without the Aux. fan.... It seems to be doing decent without the Aux fan... As was previously mentioned in earlier threads, the mechanical fan is for the AC.. (being that I removed compressor don't need it) ... So the electric fan was maintaining temperature kicking on momentarily (at idle) ; gauge a little below half........ It is February here so will have to see as the weather gets warmer... Motor is much happier :headbang:without the mechanical clutchfan...

So the problem is solved..... It ended up being that the plug on the transistor was corroded.. So I cleaned out the contacts inside the plug by scraping it with a small cotter pin. Glad I considered cleaning the connection. Just mind boggling to have a car go down due to the belt breaking because of a seized belt tensioner, putting it back together and having it not start due to a corroded connection(that I never touched during the tear-down process)

Yeah, I just wanted to add that one thing I do to extend the life of flexible lines is I bathe them in brake fluid from time to time.... (at least once a year) I will take a rag and soak the rag in break fluid and then liberally massage it into the line(but gently) I will also do this to cv boots and any other rubber (that is chassis related) also in the engine compartment on hoses and vac lines....... KKEEP IN MIND though.... brake fluid eats paint..........

Here's a story I went through..... with insurance companies....... First, It is important to know what is the name of the insurance company of the guy who it you, so you can determine.. the companies credibility..... for example........ one time I got rearended by State farm insurance........ It was a really pretty decent experience............ the Used the NADA guidelines for replacement value... and they also replaced a damaged bike rack and bike that were on the car........... ANother time I was not as lucky..... took four months to get my claim.... it was a small insurance company..... (can't remember the name) Just a no name back stabbing company....... THis is what they tried to pull........ They took local sales of the vehicle.... (private party sales mind you).... This should be Retail sales.......... the other thing they did is they compared it to two wheel drive vehicles...... Mine was 4wd.......... They have to provide to you how they derive at their determination of your cars value in writing........ so when they did this it was clear to me why they said my car was totaled and why they were gonna give me only 400 bucks.............. SO once I got by all their crap and the loser low life adjuster realized that he had lost..... he said, "hey mr.xxxx(me) I an not trying to screw you, I just want to complete processing this claim.......... AND that is when I chimed in and said, you want to complete it? here is how.... and 2800 bucks later....... I signed the check and it was settled............ SO THE MORAL OF THE STORY..... 1.) DONT agree on anything you don't like.... 2.) DONT sign a check for an amount you think is unfair.... Of course be reasonable... and support your argument with proof to substantiate why you should get what you are asking................ 3.)DONT keep the rental car longer that you need to. In fact if you don't need it don't take it..... they are worried when you can still get around with out your car.(this shows your indepence of the matter....... 4.) DO go by guidlines set on the sale of your Car.... NADA....... KBB......... I think KBB website doesn't go back as far as it used to..... 5.) ALSO.......... IF they are not in compliance with your demands.(and your are reasonable). ... SAY, "look, This car was in great shape (support documentation - receipts) I just had all this work done etc...... I WANT YOU TO FIND ME An exact REPLACEMENT OF THIS CAR which I find satisfactory. 6.) ALSO when a car is totaled....... and they pay you a claim....... you can buy it back..... probably at the scrap rate per pound in your area................. So just have all the facts straight...... (yours and their)...... write your conversations down that you have with them..... date them write down who you spoke to when you interface with them.............. and you will settle at your terms........

1. make sure the disty is not 180 off on the exhaust stroke. verify this when the passenger side cam dot is pointing at the top hard edge of the valve cover. The driver side will be pointing at the bottom hard edge. Supposedly there is a dot on the disty gear to align with the cam gear. Cool, I watch your vid on this.... It is nice.... I normally would spin the motor over with my finger over the spark plug hole and feel the compression. The visual way you mention is easier....... This checks out and looks good.... 2. make sure the fuel lines are not reversed. Tge side from the pressure reg. is the return side. The top line on the intake is the supply line. I checked the fuel lines....... I sort of have a subie farm.......... I have two wagons in running condition, and two flower pots.... (retired generals - well deserving of their retirement) I looked on the other one that is running..... THis checks out and looks good. I like to use a spare spark plug to test spark with. I will remember this.... good idea....... I am working alone.... so I got this idea.... I took my inductive timing light and set it up on a spark plug wire and turned the motor over.... no spark ..(timing light never flashed)... (proof) :horse:So I thought maybe the motor is not spinning fast enough for inductive timing light to light.(cause car not running).. .... So I took it out to the running Loyale(AKA:Ho'tel) and just crank it enough so it would not start but turn distributor. When the distributor lined up with the wire the inductor for the timing light was on... IT did light..... So this proof says: timing light is a good way to check for spark (when you are alone and have to crank motor and observe.) Check fuse #5 I checked the fuse for ignition coil and fuse pump... It looks good........(don't know what you mean fuse #5) check the wires on the coil, the black ones are positive, the yellow ones are negative. the blue wire from the transistor goes to positive. Make sure the transistor is plugged in to its own harness on the body. I didn't need to move the coil... the only thing I did was to unplug the distributor from the harness..... I plugged that in,,, and unplugged and plugged it in again....... So this is good....... make sure the ground wire is connected on the water pipe. THis is good cleaned it with a wire brush. One to the battery, the other one to the coil. With regards to the ground of the battery.. There is definitely something wrong.. with the key in the off position.... I disconnect the -ground battery terminal positive still connected. And I reconnect the ground gently allowing a space so a spark could jump(if there is one) and I get a spark... Also I hear clicking near the rear drivers side tail light. and some kind of momentary hum in the engine compartment on the passengerside. ALSO.... when I put the key in the position where the fuel pump can pressurize the fuel line It runs till pressure is obtained and then stops and runs and stops and runs.... and sometime it eventually stops and sometimes is just keeps running. AND also the tach jumps up to 8K and back down.... and sometimes not..... basically the tach should be sitting still during cranking AND .............. I am looking at the ECU as the fault here......... NOW...... there is a red LED on the ecu.......... on the car that doesn't start..... it blinks like this when the key is in the position where the fuel pump gets energised(guessing run position) three long blinks then four shorts.......... So I went over to the running Loyale(AKA:Ho'tel) and looked at the LED there....(LED is visible without pulling down ECU through hole in cover of ECU) SO Ho'tel's blink sequence is....... just 5 long blinks....... I am going to go out to my Subaru farm I guess and harvest me an ECU... (from Trixie - she is the 91 Loyale I am paying homage to for her great bountiful gifts she has provided to make the Jackson ho' what she is today. Long live the spirit of Trixie in The Jackson ho' and Ho'tel.) AND slap it in......... Seems like all these bizarre electrical anomalies point to that........ If you have this, this far.......... Thanks... and congrats.... Any input would be great And I will update..... Miles what do you think?

I will check the spark at a wire To the plug by sending spark To ground. Look for spark At the gap Thanks

So it started as a timing belt breaking. This was due to a seized tensioner. The one on the distributor side. I wasn't driving the car when this happened. So I towed it home about twenty miles with my other Loyale..... White following the black one.... Anyway, At home I decided to regasket the motor. She leaked like a pig away.... In an earlier post last week... I had a thread going about cracked heads..... They were Gen2 heads..... After the Ea82 was reassembled I did a compression test all cylinders are over 150psi.... they are more like 155psi....... I did the timing belts with the proper procedure (three notches on the fly wheel... driver side belt first... cam gear lined up with notch in cover...... spin flywheel once around do passenger belt....... I did have the distributor out.... due to it was electrolysised into the cambox.... I believe this was set in properly..... Passeger side first cylinder being #1 and TDC #1 compression......... I have been checking the timing belts as I went through this not starting frenzie... the seem to be the same... and correct........ SO IF YOU READ THIS POST THIS FAR.......... Observations: When I crank the car over..(attempting to start it) .... the tachometer jumps up and down all over the place. from zero up to 8000 grand..... true Spasticity......... NOW.. the other thing I did was while cranking I pulled the coil wire off and left it close to the distributor to see if a spark jumps...... There was no spark jumping....... WHAT do you's think?????:-\ I am thinking Coil ..... COmputer.......... bad ground....... It is just that tach jumping........ I remember once....I had a bad alternator.... and the dashboard lit up like a Christmas tree........ So......:-\ some......

I'd say (one more thing) Not having the covers on makes it "almost a pleasure" to change timing belts.... I hate working around those covers... and then the bolts rust into the nuts in the cover and spin(even anti seizing the bolts) In the north east the salt gets at everything

Yeah, I had full life on my belts.... I even had one car "trixie" she ended up with serious blow by.... OMG! oil every where..... ran those belts pretty long..... Short belt life... could be a number of reasons...... IE: belt too tight...... I just let the tension from the spring of the tensioners be the tightness of the what the tension on the belt is. (if that tongue twister makes sense)

Yeah, blow off the covers..... I just run the ones in the back behind the cam gear and the one behind the idler gear. Recommendation: If you got the money get new tensioners and idler gear..... if they got over a 100k on them......

Yeah, low off the covers..... I just run the ones in the back behind the cam gear and the one behind the idler gear. Recommendation: If you got the money get new tensioners and idler gear..... if they got over a 100k on them......