subystomper

I have 5 White Spoke rims with great tires you can have for free if you pick them up or pay for shipping. Let me know.

I believe there are a few 4.11 ratio cars still out there but good luck finding one. You can crank up the front struts as well as the back with the nuts at the bottom of the coils there is one on each side of the spring. The rear is on top in the middle at the front of the torsion bar. I got about one and a half inches of lift in the front and about two inches in the back buy doing them. Some people weld the rear diff but there are no lockers that I know of but the LSD has always done a great job for me.

Nice lookin Brat. That's not a bad price at all. What kind of mods are you lookin to do? I just made and installed a 3 inch lift on mine, a Weber and doubled my power and imporved my mpg's, have 29 in tires mounted on Isuzu 6 lug rims, have an LSD ready to go in, have rear discs to go on, and going to do a 5spd swap and maybe do the EJ swap if I can find one cheap enough. If I get the 5 spd then I'll install an LSD in there too. What all do you want to do to yours?

Mine was not working so I just disconnected it yesterday. I have read on here where people have had problems with them leaking and such so I took the cable out. I am into simplicity too so the more I can take off the car the better.

Thank you.

My car has no cruise. I also forgot to add that the line comes from the charcoal cainster and goes into the firewall. Thanks, John

I only removed the electrical components after the light started coming on. I thought after I removed them the light might go out and stay out but not so. Is there anything I can remove, adjust, or short out to get it to go out? I know I can crack open the dash and pull the lamp but I am hopeing there is an easier way. Oh and it's an 89 EA81 Hatch 4X4 4Spd/DR 1.8 with AC. Thanks, JohnThanks, John

I guess that would help. It's an 89 EA81 Hatch 4X4 4Spd/DR 1.8 with AC. Thanks, John

What causes the check engine light to come on? It didn't come on before I put a Webber on and now it comes on after a few minutes of running. What tells the light to come on? I removed all the vac hoses and associated electrical components with hoses attahed to them and the light still comes on. Please help? Thanks, John

What does the vac line on the drivers side passing throught the fire wall go to? I know what the one on the passenger goes to but that one I can't figure out? Thanks in advance for your help. Thanks, John

They are just a block with one hole all the way through the center so I will be using longer bolts. I can get all the bolts for free too. My Dad works for a guy that lets him have what ever he wants for stuff like that. No stolen stuff either. Thanks, John

The green one and maybe a couple of the other ones were probably only 1600cc engines as well. My 1800 Weber does great.

Has anyone ever used 3" body lift blocks for a pickup to lift their Subaru?? Has any one had any problems with them if they did? I have enough to do it and have been thinking about it. I originally got them for my truck but I want to try them on Subystomper. The only other thing I would need to do is make a plate to lower the rear end, extend my steering shaft, lengthen the bolt on the top side of the trans to the fire wall, extend the top rear shock mounts, and I already have the strut tower extensions from my old car the the guy I sold it to removed when he lifted it even more than I did. Please let me know if I missed anything and also let me know your thoughts on this. If I end up doing it I'll post how it all works out. I just think it is a cheep way to do it for less than $100 since I lost my job now. I can get the blocks for free from my neighbor and I think I need about 14 to 16 of them to do it. 4 to 6 blocks for the engine, 6 for the transmission, and 4 for the rear end. Thanks, John

Yes you can raise the front about 1 1/2 inches just by cranking the two nuts on each strut. That is all I have done to mine so far and it works great. Looks good though. Have fun, John

The spot light really comes in handy when you need to point at something. I got it off a wrecked cop car years ago.

http://www.sjrlift.com/ http://alliedarmament.homestead.com/LiftKit.html These are just a couple of lift makers for the EA82 which is what your car is and I squeezed 235-75-15 tires with redrilled Isuzu 6 lug rims under mine with no lift but I did have to do some cutting and beating to get them to fit. Good luck and have fun cause I know I am. John

I have no rubbing now due to cutting and pounding all the areas that were rubbing on the underside. I do have rubbing when turning real sharp but I am having some costume wheel spacers made to take care of that. I flexed it out and have no other rubbing. I probably will put some lift on it later but am not sure how I want to do it yet. I have plenty of power to turn the wheels now that I put a Weber on it. I still want to do the 5spd swap but this will work for now till I get one. Thanks for the comments, John

Here is what I have been working on. The rims are factory 15X6 from and Isuzu Trooper with some 235-75-15 (28") very aggressive WinterForce tires , I put a hitch on the front for my winch, Weber carb, Cherry Bomb. cop spot light, cb, and I have some 14X6 Toyota rims with 215-75-14s on them for off-roading. Yet to come are some custom front and rear bumpers me and my dad are going to make, removal of all the vac lines not needed now that I Weberized it, more lights, LSD rear swap (maybe this weekend), rear disc brakes (maybe next weekend), rear spring struts from and EA82 RX (maybe this weekend), cd player and speakers, fender flares (any suggestions?), under coat for rust control, maybe a lift though I really don't need it due to the fender trimming and bfhing, eventually 5spd D/R swap, What else should I do? Any suggestions? The pics start with where I bought it in Ohio and then with the Swampers then what it looks like now with the Isuzu rims. I'm also open to comments. Thanks, John

You also need the clutch pedal and all hardware to go with it, the cable, the console, and did someone say the drive shaft? You may need that too. Hope this helps. Well worth the swap. I have had the 4wd auto and it slipped around corners and felt like it was gunna drop out when it kicked back in. Good luck, John

You sure it's an lsd or vlsd? They both look like open diffs to me.

Sounds like an EJ Swap would take care of everything.

Looks great. You did a great job. Are you taking orders? lol. Enjoy, John

I just finished installing my new Weber carb and what a difference it makes. It is the first one I have done and only took about 2 hours. I put it on my 89 EA81 hatch. I highly recommend them. I had no problems with anything and it runs great. As soon as my LSD, rear discs, and rear springs and struts get here I'll put them in and hit the trails. Thanks guys for all your help. John

Subaru used that motor it all their 70's and up to 81 Wagons, cars, and Brats both 2 and 4 wheel drives. Hope that helps. Good luck with it, John

Buy it. If if runs good and is a 4X4 it is well worth it. I would give a grand for it. You may be able to get more out of it if it is in good shape. Good luck, John