tractor pole

so I have decided to do a 5 lug swap on my 91 Loyale wagon. I have seen the tire size thread for lifted cars, I am wondering how big I can go without lifting, not planning on doing any wheeling just winter driving and commuting. I really like the six spoke wheels that were on early 2000's imprezas like this want to run those for summer/ not snowing tires and 15" steelies with studded snow tires when it snows. was thinking that 205/50-16 would be a tight but ok fit. Tire Size Comparison Wheel Specification Sidewall Radius Diameter Stock: 185/70-13 5.1in 11.6in 23.2in Studded: 205/60-15 4.8in 12.3in 24.7in Six Spoke: 205/50-16 4.0in 12.0in 24.1in any thoughts? Thanks Ben

I am assuming that you are talking 4 100w, 2 65w and a deck without amp? you will be around 40 amps of draw on the system so you have about 50 to play with, and a stock EA82 alternator is a 55 amp so I think you should be good. I am doing this swap soon and I am also doing a DL headlight swap with 80/100 Hi/Lo H4 and a 100w H1 high beam so I will be close to the same load as you. Ben

I will be doing this soon on my 91 loyale I already have all the parts. I will try and do a write up when I do it.

Good call, that stuff works great too. It is less permanent, I have used that to install satellite radio antennas through third brake lights and it works great to fill the void that the small cable makes in the gasket material. Over a period of time and heat cycles it will bond very well to the paint and plastic, meaning it will leave residue when it is removed. but nothing a little adhesive remover won't take care of. Ben

I mean permanent like a windshield. you usually have to cut the sealant to get it out. maybe make it less permanent by using a thinner bead? so it covers less surface area? making it easier to pry/cut off.

the butyl sealant I have seen in two different forms, a caulking tube and a roll of it separated with contact paper the stuff I was referring to is normally used as windshield adhesive, Permanent installation is the result and heat and/or cutting the sealant area is pretty much the only way to separate. http://www.amazon.com/3M-08612-Window-Weld-Ribbon-Sealer/dp/B000CQ4AOO/ref=pd_sim_dbs_auto_5 http://www.goferauto.com/3mwirorise08.html hope that helps Ben

this is the kind of thing I was looking for, thanks I too will keep my eye out for a nissan alternator. thanks Ben

I read the posts about those options, I was just curious if anyone had done this.

can it be done? is the EJ alternator internally regulated? does anyone have a pin out for the plug on this alternator? just throwing that out there. thanks in advance Ben

Bump for great pictures a little bittersweet though, the pics of the volcano are very cool but, the volcano made it impossible for my wife's family to come from Germany for our wedding... oh well if I ever make it to Iceland, I promised my wife I would bring some rocks from home and throw them at the volcano. Ben

not really familiar with the sedans, can you replace the light bulbs without removing the housings? Butyl sealer will be a very good permanent seal if you clean both surfaces that it will be applied to. In order to separate the lights you will need to heat the seal up to remove the light assembly. Clean them with a good adhesive cleaner to clean any adhesive residue(make sure that it is plastic safe first), then use isopropyl alcohol to clean final. I am doing a projector retrofit project on my truck and I am using Butyl seal to reseal the light housings. hope that helps. Ben

that is a really clean car! I like it.

Rockford driveline sells replaceable ujoints

Can the PRND21 piece be taken out of the instrument cluster? (I haven't had mine out yet to investigate.) I was thinking of making my own Lo range indicator in its place... anyway gathering parts has been pretty easy so far, all I need is a driveline and shifter w/ linkage. Ben

I ended up using a Tie Rod puller to separate the ball joint from the knuckle. tried a fork tool, BFH, and anything else I could find in the toolbox. the tie rod puller worked great. like this one LINK Ben

I found some links on this link http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/older-legacy-wiringiiii-89818.html?p=1919516 not sure how much of it is for the Twin turbo... here too http://www.northursalia.com/modifications/misc/wiring/wiring.html

solder and shrink tube, make sure you get a moisture proof type of shrink tube it has sealant on the inside.

I have a 92 EA82 motor I am going to swap into my car to cure my dead cylinder problem. thanks to drugh. I am looking at a gasket kit on rockauto.com, a full set for $108 DNJ is the manufacturer are these any good? anyone have any experiences with them? is there certain head gaskets I should/shouldn't use? any input will be appreciated I am just trying to seal it up, but I might as well have a good look at it while it is out of the car and do it right. thanks in advance Ben

thanks for all the input guys, I am thinking I will do this when I do my motor swap. nothing special just a freshened up EA82, no leaks and all four cylinders... one more question: the RX was fulltime 4wd with D/R with a locking diff and the others were Fwd with hi/lo 4wd correct?

JB Weld and duct tape will fix that....

cool, just added a 5MT driveshaft to my list. thanks

I want to convert my 91 Loyale from an AT pushbutton 4wd to 5sp D/R. I will obviously need the following, Flywheel Clutch kit pedal cluster from junkyard center console from d/r ea82 car so my question is if I find one with the same diff ratio as the rear diff, will the axles and drive line bolt right up? does the drive line length stay the same? will my speedo cable hookup? will the ecu need to be switched to a manual car ecu? thanks Ben

well I finally checked the compression on my 91 Loyale #1-155 #2-150 #3-148 #4-30.... FFFFFFFF well I am picking up a bore scope tomorrow I haven't checked with compressed air yet to hear where it is leaking any thoughts? common problems? Ben

I found this for an 82-87 BRAT I am assuming that the wiring colors are the same. Constant 12V+ N/A Go to Battery Switched 12V+ Blue/Yellow Ground Black Illumination Red Dimmer Red/Green Left Front (+) Yellow Left Front (-) Blue/Red Right Front (+) White Right Front (-) Blue/Black Left Rear (+) Yellow/White Left Rear (-) Blue/Red Right Rear (+) White/Blue Right Rear (-) Blue/Black hope that helps Ben

it sounds like the voltage regulator is going bad. it is internally regulated and you will likely have to replace the alternator. lots of amplifiers have an over-voltage protection circuit built in, likely it isn't hurting it but is certainly annoying. Ben