tractor pole

just purchased from cns. $66.10 including shipping

I was looking at those last night. I think that's the road I am going to take.

cool, thanks.

After searching I couldn't find this particular topic, sorry if it is a repost. I have a 91 EA82 about 165k and in need of a oil pump gasket so I figured I would do everything I could while in there. What about timing belts? Dayco? Gates? Goodyear? looking at DAYCO belts, tensioners and idler pulley. from Rock Auto for $112. h2o pump, thermostat, cam seals, crank seal... is there anything else I am forgetting?

thank you, this is exactly the kind of information that I was looking for.

I am not trying to "pick the fly s*!t out of the pepper" I am trying to get a consensus of what others are using, especially on high mileage cars... Why not 5w30? if "any grade of oil (within reason)" is ok.

I use Valvoline too. Ams would definitely be overkill, considering I only paid $200 for the car.

So here we go, so I have tried 4 to 5 different weights of oil. I always use the Union Sangyo (sp?) filters I was told that they are the same as OEM filters. What weight oil is the best for a non turbo EA82 motor? I talking about conventional oil not synthetic. 5w-20 5w-30 (currently using) 10w-30 10w-40 20w-50 any input on this will be appreciated, I have found that 5w-30 seems to work the best for type of driving and climate I live in. thanks Ben

thumbs up, those look cool!!

exactly, I would also put some dielectric grease in the connector you use to replace it. this will help displace moisture and keep the connectors from corroding and eventually burning down the road.

Interstate dist. in Everett has always treated me right. address: 727 134th Street Southwest, Everett, WA

diesel fuel will work. built a 218 flathead six cyl out of a 1950 dodge B1 pickup and had the same problem, diesel fuel freed it after about a week.

Type of Wrenching: shade tree and professional Cars; Big 3, Honda, Subaru and volkswagen Airplanes; line maintenance, avionics and test mechanic, big and small.[Cessna to 747] FAA Mechanic license with Airframe and Powerplant ratings. How long doing it: Cars; 15 years Airplanes; 5 years Other skills: Carpentry, electrical(home[low and high voltage], 12v and aircraft) Car audio/alarms, landscaping, and whatever else I don't want to pay someone else to do for me.

that is what I was getting at. was just curious what was needed to complete the circuit. glad you got it figured out.

this will do what you want, give you about 1/2 second momentary pulse. although I can't take credit for it. http://www.the12volt.com/relays/page5.asp what are the pinout/values needed at the power button pins? is it 12 volts or 5v?

the 5v dc from the usb pin 1 will not likely be enough to drive the relay. you could use a transistor to drive the relay with the usb voltage. when I get home I can dig us some diagrams.

I would say buy a short bed instead of chopping up the long bed and modify the frame to have it fit. but that probably means cutting forward of the rear axle. would be a very unique truck. been think if getting an older crew cab pickup as a project as well. good luck. similar looking i assume except for the 94 grill.

Suntune Tach volt meter has replaced the ammeter clock added I don't know what is old school subaru though

Cool!! makes me want to finish my 78 KE100, check out bikebandit.com they have tons of NOS and repro parts for older bikes.

my guess is that it is to protect the signal from the O2 sensor to the ECU from EMI (electro-magnetic interference). the readings can change from "crosstalk" of other wires that are in the vicinity of the cable run. more than likely it was a precautionary measure to make sure interference wasn't a problem in the future. as far as the interference from the rest of the harness that shouldn't cause any problems, if you think about it the whole chassis as a ground so if the ECU ground and the shield have the same 'ground potential' then there shouldn't be any interference. btw I am not an electrical engineer, just my experience of how things seem to work.

I have had fairly good luck with easy outs... the reason that they usually break is the hole is not deep enough or the hole is drilled off center so the threads are exposed and the easy out is "fighting" the casting. you can use a cobalt drill bit to drill out the easy out, use oil to keep the heat down. if you use a regular(direction) drill bit in the clock wise direction sometimes it will knock the easy out loose. if that doesn't work, a sharp center punch and a small hammer to tap the ridges clockwise can loosen the easyout as well. Aerokroil is a great penetrant, if you can apply heat to the casting surrounding the broken off bolt that can help too.

I am assuming that you posted a picture of the speaker, I just can't see it. if you were referring to the speaker being deeper instead of larger in diameter. option 1: make a new mounting plate out of MDF 1/2" will work fine. and use the existing mounting holes in the door. as long as the the speaker is not too deep. option 2: cut a hole in the door panel where the speaker grill is and mount the speaker on the outside, for added strength make a ring of MDF to back up the speaker on the door panel, I don't think having long screws that go all the way through into the door is necessary. its hard to explain some of this stuff, if I hadn't had a hard drive crash a few years ago I would have some install pics to show you what I meant. hope that was helpful Ben

LOL!! I can see all the bearing boxes and axles laid out on the counter... to answer your question, the dealer would have the correct ones for sure, although they are probably spendy.

it sounds like the bearings are incorrect. measure the ID of the new bearing and the old ones to confirm. Ben

for the die grinders and air hammers I just bought them from harbor freight, cheap around $30 and they work well. I mainly purchased them because the air supply in the shop I used to work at was very unpredictable (once a day in the summer we would have to drain the water from the tank, and oil the tools twice a day at least. impacts and air ratchets I went with IR, never had a problem. Harbor freight can yield a bad tool every once in a while, had to pull a die grinder apart and fix it once before it would work, but after that it worked fine.