TROGDOR!

Those wheels will not fit a Brat. That website simply filled your search engine terms into their page to attempt to make a sale. It's shady and I refuse to do any business with a website that does that.

Much easier said than done. I tried to do tinting myself once, and even with my most painstaking effort, still had small bubbles in the side windows. The back glass was a total disaster. I'd leave it to the pros, can get it done for about $100 total here.

I know they're completely different than the US model designations. For Gen 1 we had- Base (no name) L LS LSi Sport Wagon Sport Sedan GT SunSport Outdoor Alpine Sport Not all those models ran the full span from 90-94. Gen 2, there was: L LS LSi GT Outback In the US, only the Sport Wagon and Sedan were turbo. The gen1 GT had optional turbo, and the gen2 GT had a nonturbo 2.5.

Well, I went to put a new pulley on it, and found some bad news... the keyway on the crankshaft is damaged, as is the notch on the pulley. The new pulley wouldn't even fit on. I put the old pulley back on and tightened the bolt to 175ft-lb, and everything feels nice and tight... but it still wobbles. So in a nutshell, there's no way to fix the wobble without replacing the crankshaft (or the engine). As long as the pulley is on tight, what's the risk of running it with the wobble? Should it be OK? Or should I start getting ready for an engine swap?

Massive oil leak, yes. From the front seal, no. After all, it IS a Subaru. I'll be sure to give the pulley bolt a nice pull before hitting the road tomorrow morning, to make sure it's tight. 200 miles from home right now, but I'm not too worried about anything happening- as long as it's been since I had the hood open with the engine running, the car may well have gone over 1000 miles like this already. Any other quick roadside checks before I head out tomorrow?

Had the hood of my Legacy open while the engine was running today, and noticed the crank pulley had a bit of a wobble in it. I've heard this can be a symptom of bad main bearings... but the car still runs perfectly, no knocks, plenty of power, runs smooth as silk, etc. Anything else I should check before assuming I have bearing issues? Could this be caused by an unevenly worn belt? Or could the pulley itself be bad? If anything else... since the car still runs so well, barring any easy fix... any harm in running it like this?

That means over-inflation. Probably happened from running all 4 tires at the same pressure, which may not have been recommended because mid-engine cars like the X1/9 are so light in the front.

This post is 2 1/2 years old. I ended up buying the car from him, driving it happily for 6 months, then selling it. Last saw it on the road last fall. Oh, and I used a dash panel from the junkyard.

In the driver's door jamb there's a sticker that has the tire sizes, and will also list the drivetrain and body type- FWD SEDAN or AWD WAGON or whatever. But yeah, just look for a diff... good and reliable.

Orange is illumination, in theory it's supposed to dim the lighting on the stereo when you turn the headlights on. I've never connected it before installing the CD player in my '94 Legacy... and surprise, in this case it does absolutely nothing. If you can't find where it goes, just leave it off. The stereo will still work fine.

All EA82's have speaker holes in the back doors, but only the GL's/GL-10's actually had speakers in them. Other cars just had a door panel covering the hole. So, go ahead and mount speakers in there, and you can either drill holes in your door panel to let the sound out, or use GL panels with the pre-mounted speaker hole.

Hmmm, I got the Y-pipe fairly recently. Took a lot of hunting, but I got it on a 2-day shipment As for the axle thing, they list no 25 spline ones at all for '89. Had to go back to 88. And most of the search results on a turbo car will be 23 spline, even those that are supposed to be 25. I'd have been pretty aggravated if I didn't know how to find what I was looking for. Also, they sent me a core axle instead of a new one, and I had to wait another day to get it. The store I worked at had no quiz about knowledge at all. They'd take anyone, and 75% of the people there didn't know jack about cars. They hired a manager from McDonald's once, who besides not knowing about cars, just wasn't that bright. I had to talk her through everything for months and months, the only thing I didn't help her with was the closing procedure at night. If I went more than a few feet from the counter at any time we were the only two working, she'd be yelling for me within minutes, asking what something was.

Thought you all might enjoy these. What's a guy with a freshly-washed Legacy, a boring evening, and no class in the morning to do? 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. Same as above, with lights off. 7. 8. Interesting reflections on the side of the car. 9. 10. Somewhat of a self-portrait. Objects in mirror are closer than they appear. BTW, this is the "infamous" $800 94 LSi. Man do I love this car.

I worked for Advance for a year and a half. Now when I go to one, I ask to use the keyboard myself. They usually let me. Saves a lot of trouble, because I already know where to look. Here's a couple games for you MM, using the computers only... The easy one: find a 25 spline axle for an '89 RX. The hard one: a Y-pipe for an '89 4WD XT 4 cylinder. FYI, I managed to accomplish both. And yeah, they really need to get their shiat straight when it comes to the old gen stuff. Doesn't help that Advance will hire any Joe with retail experience, whereas Autozone and Napa require a test of automotive knowledge before hiring anyone.

I'm working on a deal to get some WRX wheels with bad tires from someone locally, and found some cheap 225/50/16 tires in the paper. I calculated the diameter, and they're almost the same as the stock WRX tires. The question is... will these tires rub? Are they just too wide?

Cool. Anybody got part numbers?

Actually, the clutch pack on this trans is so far gone, even with the FWD fuse in I still had torque bind. It'd still chirp the front wheels only on a fast takeoff, so I know the FWD was working... but all the binding was still there. Probably due to the previous owner putting 40,000 miles on it with torque bind present, and the owner before him doing the same for God-knows-how-long. I went ahead and pulled the shaft, the car runs great in FWD, no more torque bind. Any gas mileage improvement I get is null and void for those of you with healthy cars though- the bind was acting like a dragging anchor on mine, slowing down acceleration and making for HORRIBLE gas mileage. So, any results I get do not apply to a car with a healthy transmission.

Bringing this back to the top... So do I need to use the rear housing and internal parts from a 97-up 4EAT, or just order new components for my 94 and pray it doesn't happen again?

It's going to be a few weeks until I have the free time needed to change the AWD clutch pack on my '94 Legacy. Until then... I was thinking of removing the rear half of the driveshaft and driving with the FWD fuse inserted. While this won't eliminate the binding, it should stop it from reaching the rear wheels, making for a smooth ride. Any potential problems or damage to the transmission that will result from this? I'll do it with the FWD fuse IN, so it shouldn't be trying to transfer power to the rear anyway... Suggestions or comments?

Thanks for the tips. Anyone know if ALL EA82's had the same clutch spline count? Feels kinda funny asking such a novice question after I've got 5 engine or trans swaps under my belt... already have gone auto to dual range, turbo to MPFI, for example... some non-standard swaps, but I'm kind of a learn-as-you-go kind of mechanic, and have to seriously think about it when encountered with a new problem.

Hey, I'm dropping the FT4WD trans out of my RX and putting in a pushbutton 4WD out of a Loyale (long story- in short, 1 good engine, 1 good trans, so making a project and an econobox out of the 2 RX's). Got the tranny out, made the changes I needed to make on the Loyale one, and hoisted it up in. Got the bottom studs lined up, and started to bring the engine and trans together, and now it's binding. It has a decent gap between the top of the bellhousings, and no matter what we do, the engine and trans move together as a unit and will not come any closer. The clutch was properly lined up, and when I turn the engine, the axles turn- which leads me to believe the input shaft is splined into the clutch. ...or is it? Were there two different spline counts for the EA82 clutches, and it's just turning because of tension? Any tips? I'd really like to get this thing running tomorrow! Need to know about those clutch splines, and also, any general tips on mating engines and trannys. I've done this about 5 times before, and this is the first time I've had any trouble.

The XT automatic shifter will fit a Loyale, but you have to switch the whole assembly, including the part with the gear markings. If you try to just stick the shift handle on, it will be way too tall. It's not too hard to do, I did it in my 92 Loyale when it was still automatic. Make sure the assembly you get has matching markings to your car- they are marked PRND21 or PRND32. Besides the numbers being off, there is substantial mechanical difference!

Double posted. Please delete.

You'll also have to swap the rear diff. Turbo cars had a 3.7 final drive, nonturbos had 3.9. Swap the diff and the front axles along with the tranny and you're good to go.

Chef Tim did this a couple years ago. IIRC, it basically entailed removing the roof and welding on part of one from a Brat. Professional grade work and not cheap.