TROGDOR!

I actually found mouse traps in a Sube I bought that had been in storage for 5 years. I didn't get snapped by any of them, but the suckers were armed! Snapped my screwdriver pretty hard when I tapped them with it.

Not any more common than any other engine being nested in by rodents. They love engines of all kinds- it's a small, warm, enclosed space.

I use it a lot when driving up mountains around here in 2nd or 3rd gear, it allows me to put my foot to the floor without downshifting and revving the hell out of the engine. I find it to be pretty convenient.

My first Soob had a short in that switch that would turn all those lights OFF, no matter the position of the switch on the stalk. Now THAT was a fun one to track down. I jokingly called it my "run from the cops" mode... headlights but no markers or tails.

Only GL-10's and turbo cars got them. They were also standard equipment on all XT's. Odd thing worth mentioning is that RX coupes with NO body kit did NOT get them (both of mine didn't). I think it's mainly to add a sport kind of look without sticking on a full side skirt. No real aerodynamic benefit there, and I haven't ever had a car with many rock chips in that spot- they've all been behind the wheel. They're actually two-piece- there's a door section and a rocker section. That's how the doors still work with them attached. The rocker section is held on with double sided tape where it meets the door sill, and screws along the back and bottom. The section on the door is just held on with double sided tape. In this picture you can clearly see the line between the two sections:

Well, going by the chart on the Legacy board, it looks like my stock rear springs are actually stiffer than the WRX ones. Can you shed any light on this?

So, going by that chart... To maintain the best spring rates front and rear in my Legacy wagon, I should use WRX front springs and my stock rear springs? Interesting...

I'm hoping to do this in my '94 wagon, once I find the right 90-91 strut components to retrofit. How would this work with a wagon though? I have no experience with Legacy suspensions yet, just the EA82 style- and on those, using the same springs on a wagon as on a sedan would result in a way off-balance ride height. Will these springs work fine in my wagon? Or do I need to get WRX wagon springs? Also, about how far would you say it lowered the car?

An L wagon would have the 2.2. Final drive actually refers to the gear ratio in the differential. He could have meant overdrive, meaning the trans has lost its top gear. Also could have meant the differential is busted. It's a strange way of saying what's wrong, whatever it is.

Is it an auto? If so, run it through the hole where the clutch cable would go. Get down under the dash with a flashlight and look above and to the left of the brake pedal, you should see a rubber grommet plugging a hole.

Probably isn't going to help much, may even make it worse. http://www.bobistheoilguy.com "What about additives?" section, check it out. I've never had any improvement when using Lucas in the past.

Probably a burned out motor. Pull the plug from the motor, and use a multitester on the contacts while pressing the switches. If you get power for both up and down (you'll have to move the probes for the different directions), the motor is bad. If you aren't getting power for one or both directions, it's a switch or wiring problem.

Alignment is computerized and done using the hubs or the actual wheel rims. The tires have nothing to do with it. It's done with the car off the ground anyway, so even if they did use the tires, flatness wouldn't matter. So your alignment should be fine. Easiest way I know of to get the light off is to pull the instrument panel and remove the bulb for it.

Yep, that's why I just despise my '94 2.2 wagon that can climb 7% grades on the interstate without losing speed, while I comfortably sit in my leather seats, under my moonroof, surrounded by my factory CD player, power windows and locks, and cruise control. Such lack of creature comforts, I tell you... it doesn't even have massagers in the seats or a built-in GPS system! 90-96 Legacy wagon for the win. 92-94 look a little more modern than the early first gens, 93-up offered an airbag for added safety, 95-96 was a new body style that looks very similar to the late 90's models. The 2.2 is a very durable engine as well, just this weekend I watched someone totally beat the crap out of a 97 Legacy 2.2 with 240k on it, and he said he'd been driving it that way since it had 40k. The 2.2 is a very hard engine to kill, unlike the 2.5 that would be in your price range.

Automatic transmissions become pressurized when the engine is running, and this pressure also pumps the fluid around, which lubricates the tranny. Pulling the car with the transmission in neutral will still turn the internals of the tranny. Without the pressure coming from the turning of the engine, however, the transmission will recieve no lubrication. Over a distance, this can result in the internals of the transmission actually melting. (seen it on a Dodge Dakota that was towed with wheels down) DO NOT tow it with the wheels down. Whoever mentioned that they got away with that before got very, very lucky. For towing with 4 wheels down: remove the front axle shafts, but leave the spindles in the hubs to hold everything together. Pretty labor intensive to take apart and reassemble the axles. Unbolt the rear section of the drive shaft to keep the rear wheels from turning the transmission. For towing with the rear wheels down, on a dolly: Unbolt the rear section of the drive shaft only. With the rear diff disconnected from the trans, you're good to go. The car can even be driven on and off the dolly this way if you insert the FWD fuse under the hood.

Possibly a broken timing belt. Pull the distributor cap and see if the rotor turns with the engine. If it doesn't, you have a broken timing belt. It's a non-interference engine so no harm done if it breaks, just put new belts on and make sure it's timed properly.

Probably way too much. It's not hard to do yourself. What I'd do to get home- try and route the belt so it doesn't go around the power steering pulley, probably will need to buy a new belt to do this. May also have to remove the power steering pulley. Steering will be hard as hell to use when below 10mph, but at least it'll get you home with no worries.

I wonder if a 450 is a later JDM model, after they upped the maximum displacement on the keicar class?

Seems to be par for the course on those bridges. Some aren't bad at all, some are nearly impossible to keep the car in a straight line. Had the exact same effects you described on those bridges in plenty of 2WD vehicles. Don't worry about your AWD, instead worry about keeping the car in a straight line.

Walmart and the auto places carry a special "wheel and wheel cover paint" or something similar. It's a tougher formula that resists the nicks and chips that happen to wheels. I used some of the bronze color on some Legacy hubcaps and have been running them for a year now, and they look just like the day I painted them. Couple years ago I used regular spraypaint on some hubcaps, and they had to be touched up every 6 months. Every little piece of gravel or road dirt that hit them would take a bit of paint off.

This thread is worthless without pics! I gotta see how bad one looks that failed for rust 13 years ago and then kept rusting.

Blame the owner, not the dog. My dog was a year old when I got her, and was a chewer. Did a number like that to an old couch in my garage once. Then and there I cracked down, and the chewing stopped within a month. Almost two years now and the worst thing she's chewed has been a newspaper, and that was an isolated incident. Even the dumbest dog can be trained by a smart owner to not chew, pee in the house, etc. My bet is leaving the dog tied up had a lot to do with it. Labs are play-crazed dogs, and if you don't train them to only chew on their toys, they WILL chew on whatever they get their paws on if left isolated long or often enough. All that being said, if my dog chewed up my Subaru stuff, it'd take a ton of self-control to not go crazy on her either.

Adam, you really are an honest man. I consider myself a fair person to do business with- but if the car was running perfect, I personally would have sold it for a lot more. Not its market value, but still quite a bit more than $800. People like you are really what makes the Subaru community such a unique one. Thanks again for the well wishes... and if I'm wanting a CR-V in a dozen years or so... I may just make another trip to Alexandria.

Well, I've been feeling pretty sick today and felt like my head was in a vise, so I wasn't thinking too clearly. I forgot to check the basics. All it was was a stinking plug wire!! I don't normally do this, but that warrants a Dancing Banana. Can't believe the guy sold it at such a loss over that (I paid $800 for the car). Oh well, finders keepers. By the way, here's the car: http://photobucket.com/albums/v504/xtacyturbo/Stuff%20For%20Friends/Legacy/

The engine dies immediately when I pull any of the plug wires, even the one that wasn't pulsing with the timing light.