1-3-2-4

Only other way I can think of is to file down notches to my next size hex socket and try again..

It's pretty rounded out now, no? They say JB wield will just break off?

I was going to crank with the plugs in only because it's a DOHC heads it's a pain to put in while in car.. but a lot faster then what I had in mind.. I installed a oil pressure gauge so I assume when I start building pressure it should start to read.. I used a Add-a-fuse to the engine ign so I will have power to the gauge when cranking. I will see if I can document it on Saturday

Here are the pictures

I will get a picture.. what I can't understand is why both plugs are not the same time.. why is it on with almost 200 Ft.lbs?

The one for the engine block heater.. I've tried heat and I tried using a 3lb hammer and hitting the plug sideways and it still wont move at all.. Did the plug win? Any other tips I should use before I give up?

I'm guessing around 150 rpm?

Does anyone know what the ballpark cranking rpm is on a fresh battery? Looking to see how long it takes for the oil to be primed and start pumping, I assume if the oil filter is pre-filled it should not take that long?

Holy crap that tiny O-ring for the FPR was $9!!!!

Got my PCV hose in today and the 4 o-rings for the fuel rail and FPR so pretty much this Saturday I will be putting in the motor, meanwhile I will be wiring up half of the oil pressure gauge and install the sender last.

New nice hose now

The air is very dense and the Subaru runs rich on start up in the cold.

I snapped two of these PCV hoses One at around 30F and the other around 49F thinking it would be warm enough.. NOPE.. so I sit hear waiting for the dealer to call me letting me know when it arrived. at least that I have the IM off I replaced the last three rubber vac lines under the manifold near the FPR.

I've got a 70,000 BTU heater I filled it up with diesel about 3 weeks ago, nice to be outside in the cold and taking off the jacket.

Anyone know the size of the coolant hoses that go to the throttle body? Is it 1/4"?

I know that part but I assume the check valve is closest to the brake booster as like you said before it's a one way valve so I assume the engine vac would keep it open so, i think I have it right. oh never mind.. took seconds just to test myself.

Dumb question but the check valve is located closer to the brake booster right? When I took off the hose I forgot which way it went.

Yeah.. now I just can't remember if I have a 27mm socket, I'm pretty sure I might since I picked up one by mistake.

Kroil FTW!

The one I have on my car looks like this one http://www.intertrick.org/nasioc/images/2011sti/heater_plug.jpg

Anyone know what size the heater plug is anyways? was it 27mm or 30-32?

And hopefully My car will be running before spring lol.. I've got all my snowboarding gear in the bag ready to go. At least this year the snow started early..

ha that's crazy colder then here

lol in VA? Last week it was around 1-10 F at night however I doubt it would matter much since I live at a apartment and no outlets at all However I've been thinking about taking a trip to Alaska near the winter, I been getting all these brochures in including the Milepost.. Still deciding... it's a looooong trip, which needs lots of planning.

Working on and off, but around next week or so (weather permitting) I should be dropping in the Ej22e hybrid and starting her up! Seeing it sit for almost 4 months is painful.. but while it was down I got to to a few things and replace things that would of otherwise been put off for a bit. I also got the engine heater plug out my other hex socket I had which was $10 each rounded out.. but a cheaper set worked out well with my cordless impact wrench. So here are the pictures I have now.