1-3-2-4

yep I got that. for the oil I have to turn it upside down to add oil it says still need to pick up the o-rings

yeah that's pretty much my question I understand the drier has some oil in it too but I'm getting a new one as well. This can i have here says it has 2 oz of PAG 100 oil and 1 Oz of R134a I don't remember off hand what the system takes as I need to find out where my service manuals are now.

Well I brought a vacuum pump and the gauges I just still need to buy a new condenser since whatever it is that hit it caused a leak (happened before I brought car) So I understand you put whatever oil that came out of it.. well since I happen to notice the oily spot on the condenser I figured I lost some oil from that area. 2 Questions.. Which is better normal PAG 100 oil or the R134a with PAG 100 oil? and where are the drain and fill ports on the compressor? the rest I got figured out I just don't want to put in this R-134a with the PAG 100 and possibly put too much oil in the system.

well to play it safe I found one that will fit the 2.2L so I think that's better then guessing and getting disappointed lol

Ah I see now.. maybe I will just replace the TOB and get the snout kit.. my only concern is it sounds what it seems to be the TOB squealing on the pressure plate? wont that make a groove in it? This is my first time with the MT so I don't know for sure..

http://www.rallysportdirect.com/shop/exedy-subaru-19972002-25rs-oem-clutch-kit-p-4301.html one person said no but I want to be sure.

haha sorry I did not clarify a bit better. I'd have to call delta camshafts to see what they think

I asked the same question over at NASIOC to get a wide range of opinions. http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1921394

Do you think it's worth it? since I will be pulling the motor I figured I would send them off to delta camshafts for a 1000 grind. Anything bad that could come from this?

helpful thread.. I was going to pull my engine this weekend but it's going to snow.. is the Oil separator plate part number 11831AA150 still the same? I already did my timing belt and all the idlers and water pump.. but guess what.. I got to pull it all off because the timing belt cover was so brittle on my 95 Legacy that half the bolts snapped off.. and I hope that the replacements have those screws..

I gotta replace the plastic one on my motor now I get an oil leak from that which is enough to cause my oil level to drop from full to the L mark in about a week along with a leaky cam seal. the good thing is I will be pulling the motor in about 3-4 weeks so I can fix this pesky issue. and nipper haha clear rocks for 100,000 sounds like something in my town people would buy just to have.

Question when I pressurize them that's just turning the key to on and not starting right? however to check the spray pattern I need to start the car?

my wonderful 2003 Forester XS made this same sound.. it got louder and louder.. so I took the next exit off and pull off.. As soon and I moved forward with only like 5% throttle the front diff just exploded.. It was an Auto too which sucked.. the dip stick was under the low mark and all because of the leaky seals..

Jesus that oil separator plate is $30?

so are you saying I don't need that inner tie rod part from amazon? my boots have been torn for so long that a bit of rust is getting to the inner rods. so I figure if the vise grips don't work I could have a backup.

I should of taken a picture of mine but you will see it seems like the nuts must of backed off and dropped off. I also did the 40 mph test and the clutch is fine.

do you reuse the locking tabs? I'm about to order the inner tie rods but they don't come with locking tabs do they?

I have both play and torn boots all the way around. and people talk about this locking tab whats so hard about it? all I have to go by is pictures but I plan on taking care of this the first or 2nd week of Feb. can't be hard.. bend a tab and your done.

hmm I think some hardware is missing.. it seems on the clutch fork side the hill holder cable has like this long threaded part but I see nothing to screw it in..

well I brought the car at 198K and I have just about 217K on it now. when I brought the car the guy had just put in a new clutch.. but I have a feeling that they reused the old TOB (why would you do that???) with the clutch depressed (depends on how fast you press it) the TOB will rattle and stops when you release the clutch. I never could get the hill holder cable back on without having bloody hands because of the part that turns it has so much force it felt like it was impossible to hold it while I slipped the cable around.

I gotta do this myself now.. the front is feels nasty I was going to buy this tool from amazon. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002SRGFW/ref=s9_simz_gw_s0_p263_i1?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=center-2&pf_rd_r=1N2MB2WT0XZNPMX5X2TB&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=470938631&pf_rd_i=507846 will it work on Subaru's? my inner and outter need to be replaced along with both boots as they are ripped all the way around.

removed the spring.. the pedal feels really good now sometimes on hills I developed cramps. anyways something that's just started now is (with or without spring) the clutch fork I noticed it's making this squealing type sound when driving or at idle and I give it throttle.. however if you hold the clutch fork to one side and give it throttle the squeal sound goes away.. Any suggestions?

they bend because of rocks? man I thought for sure the last time I moved it away it would of been fine.

seems like the back part of the rotor was contacting the metal shield plate drove with the window down when it was 35 out and did not hear anything.

My hill holder was disconnected when I got the car and the spring was on when I got the car.. It never did seem like it was factory but good to know I can take it off now.