1-3-2-4

Worth the money from Japan

Mine has that problem but I have a lot of slop and sometimes you have to be careful getting back into 3rd because it feels like it locked out so I have to back up and wiggle it around until it falls in.. does not happen all the time but I know it's the knuckle where the linkage connects.

I agree with everything you said.. I live here in the North east and a person on NASIOC said I don't need snows and tried to pretty much make it something bigger then what it needed to be.. I have to be at my job early in the morning as in 2-4 AM not only are some roads not cleared off a lot start to ice over after they have been cleared and my job's parking lot is not cleared until later in the morning. So that makes me need snows

well I ment $900+ for a TorSen type. I never got to really test my AWD when i brought the car the snow was pretty much all gone.. I thought about freezing water in pans but I think the weight of the car would crack the ice I think.. I was going to start with the rear since it's easy to get to.

Thanks for the info because I checked on the rear diff and I did not see any numbers.. not sure if it's on the top of the diff.. but I plan on trying to find one from a junk yard to open up.. I'm sure a VLSD would be easy to find but they are on the weak side and a decent one is $900+

I don't know why my sig does not work.. but it's a 1995 Legacy L wagon as seen in my avatar. I'm not looking for a VLSD but something a little bit better then that.

I have this same rattle and I only hear it with the clutch petal pressed.. I'd have to check that but I need to find a friend to press the clutch in first if it's the Throw out bearing no biggie gotta pull the motor anyways so more things I can get done the less I have to do later.

I've checked ebay and they seem to all be for the R180 diffs. Been pondering over the idea of putting in a rear diff in the wagon.. the car is a 5 M/T so that means the rear Diff must be 3.44 right? And I'm pretty sure those OBX front diffs would fit fine right?

Never heard of it that way.. but I need an air compressor anyways because I'm going to drop the trans soon.

when i did my TB I did all the seals but the Cam because no way I could get that thing off without air tools (never tried) so.. in Jan when I pull the motor the cam bolt can have a fighting match with the air impact wrench. plus I have to take EVERYTHING off because the damn rear of the timing belt cover that is behind all the pulleys the plastic was so old and the screws rusted it broke the plastic so I have no cover over the passenger side cam and the rubber that seals off the TB cover is old..

I noticed the VLSD back when I had my 03 Forester XS it took decent amount of wheel spin to get the VLSD going.. but now that I'm back in a 95 without it I'm thinking of finding a used diff and find a rear LSD (No VLSD if possible) and put the bits in.. should be a good winter project along with some other work that needs to be done.

it's a 95 Legacy

Yeah someone finally reviewed them so far.

That happened with me in a Forester and a Hummer H2. And it was nice of the 3 snow plows to move over so I could run on the 5 inches of snow on the parkway

haha crutchfield said the same for my 95 legacy.. I figured it would fit but for the time being just stuck my Alpine in for now.

While it's not as bad I might have dirty contacts like another member here the doors will try to keep locking at random times or sometimes the other doors wont do nothing at all when the driver's side is unlocked. What I have noticed is I can almost 99% of the time if the driver's door wont unlock the other doors I can slam shut the glove box and the other doors will respond to how the drivers side door switch is positioned. So is it still a driver's side switch or did I just narrow my self down to the glove box area?

I know everyone likes the bilzzaks but what about these? http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?&autoYear=1995&vehicleSearch=true&tireMake=Continental&partnum=87TR4EWC&tireModel=ExtremeWinterContact&autoMake=Subaru&autoModClar=&i1_Qty=4&i1_Qty=4&autoModel=Legacy+Wagon

I think 15's are an option.. but my car 95 Legacy has stock 14's but I'm replacing them with 16's stock WRX wheels if I can find them for cheap.. matter of fact I have summer tires I want to mount on them.

My weekend is going to be a bit busy too so I don't know if I will be able to get to it this weekend or not.. I had no issues with it this morning or coming back from work.

Passenger side since it seems to be effected by the glove box? I have a almost 100% success rate of getting the locks to work again by slamming the glove box shut. Speaking of that On the 95 Models if I lock or unlock the passenger side should it unlock all the doors as well or is that just for the drivers side?

at 210,022 now

I have one cover off on my TB cover (fell off someplace) so the passenger side cam is in the nude.. the reason why the cover came off was the screws for it just cracked the whole cover and I could not get the cam off to replace the cover.. when I pull the engine this winter I will get around to replacing it.

I have the same problem!!!!! This just started happening.. and the fun part is I think I traced it down to where it's at.. I found it by random if you shut the glove box I can lock my doors sometimes if the doors are already locked and driving you can hear the doors sometimes trying to lock it's self again when it's already locked.. I thought it was the door too but something behind my glove box is shorting the power door locks which does not makes sense to me.

THE EJ25 is a engine code for the 2.5L engine Duty C is a solenoid that controls transferring power to the rear by hydraulic fluid.

I never pick up synthetic because I hear they don't do well in a Subaru?