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I'm looking at opposedforces but I can't figure which one is the part number. is it just a 4 digit number as in the picture? http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b11/type_47/engine/cylinder_block/illustration_1/ I don't ever remember Subaru doing part numbers like that. nevermind I found it 806786030 however why does it show like 4 different numbers but they are only 4 digits.

well it's between two good nuts so I don't think I should have a problem or anything... it took a lot to break the seal anyways.

and I was only able to get the passenger side out I used a eraser to clean it, however the driver's side I could get all but one out because the studs got so rusty (ended up snapping one) So I guess it's a nut extractor for me I guess. Funny thing was unplugging the connection to the fuel pump did not cause my gas gauge to go to empty, regardless it's stuck between empty and 1/4 and I'm going to guess those studs on the tank are not replaceable.

From what I understand NC 10 will get me here but I can't figure out which way to take to get to NC 10.. I was going to make a trip from Moore county in NC but given the beach location it would take a long time to arrive. It would be nice to time it for a sunset but from what I hear as well it's very far from anything.. Which meaning I need to find something else to do to pass time for a long trip like that.

I don't care if they snapped because those two are the most rusted anyways I do have a torch but looking at these they are in pretty poor shape

Man you can sure confuse yourself by looking at all these ratio's haha So my outback has a 4.11 F/D and the 98 Forester transmission I have is 4.11 but why the change for just 5th gear? Seeing how cheap it is for a rear diff with a VLSD (meh) I might as well throw one on after I put the transmission in.. I figure I'd get one off maybe an '05 Legacy *edit kept my service manual from when I had my 95 legacy wow.. it had a 3.90 ratio and a 2.2 that's why it felt a little gutless taking off sometimes

I wonder how well they would work on my bolts on the diff that's bolted at the top of the subframe.. man they look downright ugly. I gotta get a new diff anyways because of the transmission I got is 4.11 instead of 4.44

yeah and those cam pulleys are not cheap

Don't see anything for Carova Beach

Cool now what I can't figure out is these fees are they just for some areas or all of the outer banks?

How do summer tires run in the beaches in NC?

mine never mixed with the old hG's it would just overpressuize the system. When I did everything I lubed up cylinder walls with some oil before putting the heads back on and about 4 hours later when I started it up I got some blue smoke for a few seconds.

Uhmm I thought it was always white smoke for coolant, black for running a bit rich and blue smoke for burning oil.

I think this should still apply for you

Once I fix my paypal issue I'm going to donate here again, none of that crazy kiddy fighting on other Subaru sites

OMG this is the friken truth!! OR they never respond.. OR after like a year of no more postings you make a post and they respond to the post above you from 2010 ignoring your question.. ^ That bugs me more then anything else.

Good because I thought it was just me because I don't ever remember seeing a resonator looks like that on any Subaru. I think after the transmission is in I'm going to change the cat since it's stressed at the flange.. Speaking of that the rear 02 sensor I got the front out how about the rear harder or easier then the front?

I can't find a listing but which diffs came with a clutch type rear? And from what I've searched so far no one rebuilds them anymore? I was thinking of buying a rear diff to work on for next month the VLSD is more plentiful but the clutch type seems to be a bit nicer?

I think my center pipe is broken.. it's stock.. the rear snapped at the flange like almost clean cut. It seems the part right after the 2nd cat it seems it bends down more then normal? Not that great of a picture but you can see it more walking up to the car from the side. I was going to change that anyways since it's just hanging anyways.. I've got the bolts for it I just need the pipe. I have a replacement 2nd cat brand new and I see what you mean with the bracket the 2nd cat the flange already looks a bit stressed.

How far up in years can you go for a fuel sender?

I changed the valve cover gaskets and spark plug gaskets on a friend's 2002 Forester if it was those two areas he never had oil on top the valve covers leaked on the underside and the plug wires only had oil on them when you pulled the plug wires.

Haha but my tranny that's still in the car that leak is excessive.. and I'm not talking about the crack in the case lol.. I think it did most of the lubing for the roll pins. And so far I still can't tell what that metal bracket is for on the right side rear of the transmission Oh wait nevermind I just took a look under my car I still can't see it's purpose..

Hehe I thought it was you that said don't worry about the input seal at 86K However if you see in my other thread it seems like they may be leaking (axle seals) given by the dark marks on both sides.. I figure now would be better then looking up under the car.

passenger side?

lol I ended up getting the old half of the stay rod off.. I thought let me just use hand tools because I don't feel like using the air compressor.. WRONG the I think 11 mm bolt was starting to strip early so I was like screw it I took out my impact and like 1 hit it was off The old shifter knuckle was more involved the pin was easy somewhat.. for some reason just the larger pin worked the smaller inside one the punch never touched it at all.. I gave about 2 min of heat then gave it some aerokroil then about 10 hits with the sledge hammer (2.5lb) it came right out. now getting the knuckle off was hard with just heat and aerokroil so I took out the sawzall and made a cut just deep enough so I got down to the shift rod gave more heat and aerokroil and it came right off. My phone was skipping lots of frames so the video is a little messed up one one of these. Also what is that metal bracket on the transmission passenger side that comes down under of the rear housing? Video of the joint removal. Inside the access cover. removed some of that grease on the side