KootenayJK

Try this: http://www.subarubrat.com/6lugconv.htm And this: http://www.sjrlift.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=161&category_id=6&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=100054

Werd. Of course, I have managed to get mine running and almost done getting the wiring in place. Tarps are great.

Answered my own question. Yes, the wires needed to be reversed at the sensor.

Will this happen with the cam sensor wires reversed? I know that the harness situation was a little funny in some of the diagrams, so I may have them reversed. Engine: 96 single port Harness: 92 or 93 Ecu: 92 or 93 I know that this harness and ECU together worked great with an engine from the same year range. I had to re-configure the wiring a bit to match the cam/crank sensors on the engine, though

O2 sensor connected, still doing the same thing. Seems to work much better with cam sensor unplugged - but won't start that way,of course. Next up: connect check engine light.

Trans is from a '87 GL -D/R. I will be hooking up a clutch switch for the neutral signal. I think you're right. I've got old gas in it, some Seafoam in the cyls from when I was cranking it over to build oil pressure, the engine has not been run for several years, etc. I need to get the exhaust hooked up temporarily, finish getting the harness in place, get the VSS/O2/Gauges/etc hooked up, and run it a bit. I am racing against the weather most of time here, but actually having it running is a major coup. It was great to have my dad there when I started it, as he's helped a lot.

So, after I figured out that a multi-connector was undone, the fuel pump primed just fine and . . . IT STARTED! It settled down to a fairly smooth idle pretty quickly, but won't come off idle very well. I don't have any exhaust hooked up after the cat in the Y, and the O2 is not hooked up yet, either. Click for video:

Silly multi-connectors behind the fuse block . . .

I ended up re-using the EA canister. I looped the two smaller ports together to block them off, left the tank vent going into the same port as stock, and used the "Auxiliary Purge" line (used on turbo cars) as my EJ purge connection - I just had to reduce it by putting the small EJ line inside a large line connected to the Aux port. -=

Yes, SPFI - it's a Loyale. I was just recalling that as long as I've owned the car, whenever I used the turn signals, the tone of the fuel pump would change. Might be another clue. I had already determined that I probably need to crawl under there in test mode and see whats up - might try hitting the pump bracket with a hammer while I'm under there, too.

OK, I went out today and plugged in the harness to see if it will start: it fires, but won't run. I connected the check mode connectors, fuel pump relay clicks, and I get voltage on the BK/R wire. I connected the BK/R wire to the BL/W wire at the stock FP relay connector: I do NOT hear the FP running. This car ran fine when I parked it to do the swap, and I never had a problem with the fuel pump before doing so. 1) Is it likely at all that the pump developed a problem while sitting? 2) Is there an intermediate connector anywhere in the passenger side of the dash between the FP relay and the FP that I should check? 3) Where is the ground connected for the FP? I have the car backed into a shelter, and getting under the back end of the car is pretty damn tight, so I'm trying to check other stuff before I crawl under there.

And now it's snowing. Although, it did warm up!

So, I'm just venting a little. I've been working on an EJ swap into my Loyale for about a month now, off an on. I had things just about ready for a test firing, and then . . . 6 deg. F ! SNAP! No way I can get my fingers to function long enough to do that. I envy everyone with a garage right now - heated or not. Last night the wind was blowing about 20+ mph on top of the chill, too. Hopefully it warms up closer to freezing soon so I can at least see if it will start for me. *sigh*

Only reason I mention is because on my car, the supply is the top line, and the tank vent is down on the frame rail, below the hill holder. Doesn't look like your lines are routed that way, is all.

Are the fuel and tank vent lines hooked up correctly? Doesn't look right for some reason.

http://www.techworkseng.com/Gallery/Customer_Rides.htm Look for the 1984 beater wagon about halfway down.

The top picture (bottom hose) is a Dayco part. The part number changes up to 71659. (it's actually for a Grand Cherokee w/4.0l, 1993-98). The bottom picture (upper hose), I was unable to find. It appears to be a Goodyear part number, but I can't find it. It looks like I am using a half EA/Half EJ hose solution, joining them with a coupler.

Trying to figure out how in heck I'm supposed to get enough room to fit the EJ stuff through. Not even sure how to get the connectors on the harness through - are people just cutting the grommets open, and then RTV ing them back together?

Cool, mine are yellow and black (93) Trying to figure out how in heck I'm supposed to get enough room to fit the EJ stuff through. Not even sure how to get the connectors on the harness through - are people just cutting the grommets open, and then RTV ing them back together?

OK, I forgot to mention that this is an EJ swap. I am trying to pare down the factory wiring, so I can fit the EJ harness through the two grommets. So, more specifically, the black and yellow connectors. I know what the green and white are for.

I understand that I don't need it. I'd like to keep it, as it serves a purpose.

I have some pretty crummy wiring diagrams here, but I'm pretty sure these are just check connectors, and can be removed? Coming up behind D/S strut tower.

Can i use my Loyale canister with the EJ system? My Loyale has the 4-line canister (using only 3, of course).

Free bump for Andy!! Thanks broseph. Super-cool feedback left @ EB, as well.

Thanks GD. Using the '91 manifold for that reason. Just wondering if the injectors were compatible in case they might offer some advantage.