KootenayJK

Little update: I finally picked up a set of used iPike tires on steelies (225/60-16)! Mounted them up on the car yesterday, and got a chance to drive it a bit today. Awesome! Feels like I'm sitting at the proper hight now. Also, my speedo always read high, but its just about bang on with the bigger tires!

Forgot to update here. Dad turned a couple spacers on the lathe, and I put them between the top nut and the top hat. Problem solved. Center bore on spacers was the same as bore in top hat, so it would sleeve over the shaft where the threads end. BTW, I also looked for shiny spots on body where the spring might rub, as one guy suggested. None there, as I expected.

Any updates? I will be needing to get my exhaust finished soon, looking forward to hearing yours and seeing details of what you put into it besides the header and cat...

Definitely find a Subaru specialist. Sounds like your mechanic might need to go back to school.

LS all the way.

I just moved mine to winter storage couple weekends ago. My dad was following me in his 1993 Mazda 323 hatch. The soob still has no exhaust after the cat, so I was taking it easy on the go pedal. In fact, I had to keep slowing down going up a hill so I wasn't making too much noise. We go to the storage location, and dad was a bit behind me. When I shut the car off, he had a funny smile on his face. dad: "Does it feel more powerful?" me: "I think so, I was just barely touching the throttle to go up that hill" dad: "Thought so - I couldn't keep up with you" ...

Here's mine so far: I am sitting about the same height as an Outback, even with the puny stock tires. Great car!

Thanks again for all the input, everyone. Hopefully I'll have time to get it sorted this weekend, as well as bring my parts car home, and do some more work on the EJ Loyale!

Are those headers for the EJ single port engines?

I tried this first - if I just slot the two inboard ones, I will definitely have the spring hitting the inside of the tunnel - it almost touches without doing so. (drilled the outboard hole first - was just about touching) Also, there's still the issue of the hat not centering on the large hole, so the studs are now bearing most of the load, instead of the hat flange. My kids and friends use this car - safety counts to me. Yes, but this is a Legacy... different dimensions back there, no?

OB top hat requires so much more work. Drill new hole, slot or drill out the other two, and the center of the hat still does not line up with large hole. I did keep all the OB parts just in case, but not sure if I will go that way or not.

I did not try my finger, but did run some cardboard up and down behind. Plus, these are the original spring, same diameter, just the angle relative to body has changed slightly with longer struts. On smooth road, with gentle undulations, no noise. Sharper bumps - noise.

OB springs did not look safe- too big for top hat.

Kinda what I was thinking might be the case. Anyone else confirm?

So, last weekend I decided to put Outback struts into my 1994 Legacy wagon (stock fronts were shot). Front went great, rear took a little time. I went the route of putting the Legacy springs into the OB struts with the Leg top hats. So, now I have an issue: there is a rattle/clunk coming from the struts, especially when I go over sharp bumps. Any ideas?

He used a compact lithium battery - go to post #146 - not really relocated.

Basically, any legacy or impreza engine can be used. The best choices, however, seem to be the 1997 and older 2.2l Also, if you go turbo, there are a lot more complications. I. Think most would recommend dropping the 2.2 in and seeing how that works for you. Transmission: keep in mind that if you swap in the AWD trans, you will lose low range gearing.

I can't say I never finished, I just didn't finish yet. I had to wait a few months for the huge mounds of snow to subside. Just about ready to get back at 'er, though.

IIRC, fuel injection works pretty good for increasing fuel economy without adversely effecting fuel economy. Can be done pretty cheap on these things using components from older VW's, too - except for the whole injector mounting issue. SPFI can be put on, too.

I think the issue is that it is considered proper etiquette on pretty much every forum to read the FAQ's and use the search function before posting questions. It helps you avoid this: Not using the FAQ/search is kind of like walking into a classroom, sitting down, and just starting to talk to everyone - while class is already in session. You'd be kicked out of that class pretty quick, no?

I noticed a difference right away. Better pedal feel, better modulation, less pedal effort to stop.

Yes, much easier. But not as fun in the end.

Thanks, but NAPA USA/Canada are separate companies, and part numbers do not cross over. We tried.

I wouldn't worry too much about not having a shop. I'm doing mine in the driveway, with the car backed into a temporary shelter. The front end is out in the weather, so I just use tarps for coverage. Everything's covered with a nice layer of overnight snow as I type. You will need tools, a service manual or two (most of the info can be downloaded from the site here, though), and someone to help with a few things. I strongly recommend you find a friend who knows how to work on cars before you dive into it, and go over the info with them. They don't need to be a professional mechanic, but find someone who won't think twice about changing brakes in their car, for example. You will also want to be familiar with where to find bits and pieces in your town, you might want to track down a good radiator shop, renting a engine hoist would make your life easier, etc. The most time consuming part is the wiring. It is not really difficult, just time consuming. If you are not familiar with 12v electrical, you will need to find someone who is to help you out. If you know someone who does stereo/alarm installs frequently, you're golden. Above all, try to have a running donor car to get the engine/trans/wiring from. Not having this, I have spent a lot of time futzing with details that would have been solved quickly otherwise. You've also got an extensive list there. I would suggest you start with what needs to be done the most. If your engine blew up, by all means, dive right in and start swapping. Otherwise, start with simple stuff like the body and interior. It will give you time to get familiar with dealing with rusted bolts, broken pieces, etc. Then maybe move on to the tougher stuff - 5-lug, engine, trans, etc. Working on the body as you go can give you a diversion, don't paint until you've got the other stuff done, IMHO. Time: your list will require a lot of time, most of it in little details. Money: I'd say start with $1000, plus the cost of the donor car. That should get you into it pretty good - assuming the wreckers in your area have decent pricing.