powderhound

You'll be driving that Geo the rest of your life cause prices aren't going down ever again...at least substantially. SevenSisters points out the critical component: CHINA. Unless they somehow fall off the planet (hmmm?) worlwide demand for oil is only going to skyrocket. Bummer for us...just hope we don't go crazy socialist like Europe and start paying 5$ a gallon in taxes. BTW 22 isn't so bad just look around at all the poor saps in Expeditions and the like.

Have them replace the rear seal(s)...I think there is one cam seal and an oil seperator plate. As for ordering the clutch yourself that is up in the air. How much can the shop get one for? How do they feel about installing customer supplied parts...some shops frown on this. Tell me how it goes as I will be needing a new clutch soon. BTW, has the clutch really died? I've been thinking mine has been going out for the last 50,000 miles but it just keeps on going...and I won't replace it until I either can't get the car in or out of gear. Good luck.

Thank you scoobaroo. Very interesting. Like I said if I lived in a climate with little temp fluctuation I would have no worries about running Mobil 1 for 25k. The key is in the top off oil...it actually reduces the age of the oil. The last line in that article is very interesting. Read it.

I think the bottle says approx 1.5oz per quart of oil so I put 6 oz in the crankcase (2.2 uses 4.2quarts) when I changed the oil...I wondered if I should reduce the amount of oil by 6 oz but figured it was so little it wouldn't matter. Then I poured the rest in the gas tank when I filled up. It was less than suggested but I wasn't gonna buy another bottle for the miniscule difference.

AHHHH Outback Sport...Ok I was thinking legacy outback...I forget about those imprezas. Anyway I wonder why it doesn't have hill holder...I would think it would have it.

Bottom line-only two companies know how to do AWD...Subaru and Audi (and VW when they borrow quattro)...Has anyone seen the Gti R32...oh my goodness...still can't beat an STi...but there is something about a big NA V6 w/ AWD in that little rocket that makes my mouth drop...beautiful engine note.

I would say you have a 96 then because 96 w/ 5mt was the last year the OB had 2.2s...unless its not an OB then you could have a 2.2. I am right aren't I? Plus if it was a 2.2 it would have hill holder...my 98 2.2 has it. But no a 96 would also have hill holder...I don't mean to start a debate but I'm confident you have a phase 1 2.5l...unless you've swapped motors. Anyway, if you can't find the cable adjustment have someone depress the clutch and look in the area I told you and you will see it moving.

Currently running Mobil 1 5W-30 with 107,000+. I have used Mobil 1 since new and only change it twice a year...once in the fall and once in the spring. I use 0W-30 in the winter. Seals started leaking at 103K. IMO Mobil 1 is the best oil you can buy, synthetic or otherwise. Change it yourself and it costs the same as having a shop put in brand X crap...plus you get longer intervals...5k seems like a waste of money to me...I would say 25K...the only reason I change mine sooner is so I can get a better weight for the cold/hot weather.

It is easily adjusted...just tweaked with mine this weekend. Location is hard to describe...I would say back of the engine bay on the drivers side of center you will find two cable actuated thingys (technical term). One is for the hillholder (actually you have a 2.5 so I think it does not have the hill holder) this makes it simpler should be just one thingy. You will need two wrenches. One for the lock nut and one for the front nut. Dial the front nut out a few threads and then lock it up...(you can just temporarily tighten it with your hand) test it out and move the nuts to your preference. Too far and it won't come out of gear...not far enough and it won't go into gear...you'll figure it out. Lock the nuts and go beat the crap out of it.

I just used it for the first time last week. I poured it in the gas tank and the crankcase. Already I have noticed a marked improvement in pickup, throttle response and smoother acceleration. I'm going to pour some through the pcv valve too next week.

Can we gets ome pics the engine bay? Is it an automatic...looks like it in the interior pic...If so that's too bad.

These things may mask the smell but if they don't kill the mold spores what's the point. Personally I wouldn't want to be breathing in mold all day esp. in the tight confines of an automobile.

You have mold...I know nothing short of bleach that will kill mold. It is a very bad problem and a difficult one to solve as even one surviving mold spore will recolonize the entire system. This may be the reason someone sold the car.

Is your car a sedan? If so then no big deal...you should beat an OBSW--they're tanks. I was driving my parents 5mt OB wagon this weekend and its a floaty (way too much PS assist) slow (how much does this thing weigh) boat compared to my legacy. Plus there are so many variables with manual trannys when it comes to driver ability...a stock 2.2 with a good driver could blow away a dumb a** in a piped out 2.5.

Interesting...I just ran 75 to 100 mph for 3.5 hrs non-stop and my clutch/linkage feels better than ever...hope its not a precursor to death.

Stupid guardrails...I hope there was some beer involved

If you're tight for money I would try living with it. Just wind it out in first and jump to third. It does suck to not have 2nd though. Better would be to lose 1st or third.

PAezb and charlierh2 Don't let the suby dealers in the msp area rip you off!!! IMO they are all severly overpriced and incompetent. It is a bit out of the way but the dealer in Eau Claire (the name escapes me at the moment but I can look it up if you're interested) is vastly superior and their prices have often been cheaper than indy shops. Plus they get you in and get you out...I know I've waited at white bear acura/subaru for alternator recall service long enough I was ready to shoot someone by the time they finished. I mean how long can it take to swap an alternator...15 min tops. I'm rambling now but seriously whenever a friend needs their suby worked on I always tell them to head east to Eau Claire.

Do it all: Tbelt, oil pump, cam and crank seal(s), H20 pump, Tstat, tensioner...and I have read that you should replace the tensioner bolt. Anything I missed?

Good point. However I have seen "dry" diffs run for thousands of miles with no severe damage.

A big bag of love.

This is what happens when GM sticks their toe in the gene pool. This and cheaper to produce 2.5s. Thanks GM for ruining two once great car companies.

My vote is for the battery. I thought it was remarkable that I still have my original battery on my 98. I thought I would replace it this fall but since yours is still going.... The clutch is impressive but no big deal...esp if you are doing mostly highway miles.

Sweet. What was the final cost? Did you get it lowered for the cost of the hood? Are you gonna have it pounded out or get a whole new hood? I like it. I told you you could find a 2.2 MT. What's with the fast food drink in the cupholder already? Don't leave that in there too long or left over soda will eat though the cup and gum up your dash buttons...I speak from expierence. Good luck...you're gonna love it way more than the sedan.

Mine has ticked for approx 60,000 miles ever since I bought it. It's either lifters or pistons...either way it's a subaru and it's gonna tick. I wouldn't worry about it esp. if it only happens when cold. If you're really concerned you could just let the engine warm up before driving...but who wants to do that.