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http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=7257&d=1263394437 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=7260&d=1263394473 Pics of the Outback that I had posted a while ago. Picked up a set of stock WRX from a buddy a few weeks ago for $50. I have to refinish them but they are all straight. Thinking about painting them the rally gold.

Hello all, I figured that since I lurk most of the time, that I would do something that would be more productive and somewhat informative. This past Thursday, I replaced the joint that connects the shifter arm to the transmission. I know that there is a way to rebuild this, but since I was leaving on a 1800 mile trip in 6 hours, I chose to buy it from the local dealer. Price was not too bad, $60 for the linkage and $2 for the roll pin. Car: 1997 Outback 2.5 DOHC, 5MT transmission approx 175K miles Tools: Hammer Long punches, (one wider than the pin and one a little smaller than the roll pin that attached the linkage to transmission) * I will look tonight at my set and get the sizes* 12" 3/8 drive extension 3/8 drive universal joint 3/8 drive ratchet 3/8" drive 12mm shallow socket 12mm wrench Needle nose pliers Short small bolt just a hair smaller in diameter than the pin and only about 1/2 the length of the pin. (use this for alignment purposes) Step 1. Jack up car and secure on jack stands Step 2. Place shifter in 5th gear. This gives easier access to the roll pin that attaches the linkage to the transmission. When I started the process, I left the car in neutral and found it a real PITA to get the new pin installed.... The transmission cross member gets in the way to get a straight shot on tapping the pin in. Step 3. Using the needle nose pliers remove the centering spring from the lower mount. Step 4. Using the 12mm shallow socket and ratchet, remove the lower shifter arm nut from the transmission. Pull the arm off the transmission and lay off to the side. Step 5. Using the extension, universal joint, socket, ratchet and wrench. Remove the bolt and nut that attaches the upper shifter arm from the linkage. On my car the bolt only went in one way so make sure you note which way it came out. Step 6. Using the hammer and wide punch tap the pin up from the bottom until it is flush with the linkage. Then using the narrow punch finish tapping the pin out. Step 7. Slide the old linkage off. Remove old centering spring for re-installation later. Note which way spring came off. It make a difference upon re-installation later. Step 8. Get the new linkage and roll pin. Tap the roll pin into the linkage (making note of which way on the linkage faces down) just enough for the pin to stay in place. Too deep and you cannot slide the linkage on the transmission. I used a bench vise, but later I was able to tap it in with the hammer after I knocked it out a few times while installing it.( It was at this time I realized the 5th gear made things easier.) Step 9. Slide the linkage on to the transmission. From the top of the linkage use the bolt to find the hole that the roll pin goes into. This will allow you to knock the pin back in without having the linkage flop all over the place. Since it is a bit smaller than the hole the roll pin should allow the bolt to fall out when the pin is knocked in. Using the wide punch and hammer tap pin until pin is equal length on both sides of linkage. Mine was about 1/16" exposed on either side. Reattach one half of centering spring to linkage Step 10. Reattach the upper shifter arm using the items from step 5. Make note of bolt placement. Step 11. Reattach the lower shifter assembly to the transmission using items from step 4. Step 12. Reattach centering spring. Step 13. Recheck your work and make sure you have all your tools. Step 14. Raise car off jack stands and remove jack stands. Step 16. Lower car to ground. Step 17. Drive car and take in the new found shifting sensation. If I left something out. Please feel free to add. Dean

Ive used Ozone foggers to get rid of smoke smells in the past. When my grandfather passed we sold his motorhome that he smoked all the time in. We set off 5 ozone cans at one time and let it set for a few days. I was amazed at how well it worked. Places like Wal-mart or autozone should carry it.

I did the polishing route except I used Meguiars kit and it worked great. Around $25 for the kit. Im not sure about the difference between Genera and Replacement though.

Just going out to play in the snow. I know its not much, but its alot for Georgia. Pic of the lights on. Since the pic, i have removed the HID headlights setup as it was acting up and installed the standard halogen headlights from a pull-a-part. 2.5L 5MT.

My speedo is fairly accurate. It was a repaired / swapped out before I bought the soob. The odometer did not match carfax records but I knew that when I bought it. :-\ I used the GPS on my blackberry when I drove to Orlando to check my speedo and it was always within +/- 1 mph of what the gps read.

Please specify as much as you can: 1. work week combo of city and hwy - 24-26mpg. (shift at 3000 rpms) All hwy (drove from Atlanta to Orlando 2 weeks ago) - saw 29-30 mpg with AC on. 2. Outback Wagon - 1997 3. DOHC - approx 160K miles 4. Manual 5MT (4.11 diffs) 5. Castrol GTX 10-30 engine. unknown in diffs and tranny. (diff and tranny changed by owner before i bought it) 6. K&N filter in stock intake. stock exhaust. 7. 205/70/15 Goodyear Assurance Triple tread. ( psi set to placard standards) 8. Stock roof rack. 9. I try to keep the hwy revs to 3500rpm and under.

Subaru wires are the best for the replacement. Most people have issues with using anything else. It is possible that coil packs on their way out can cause a missfire.

Yep. I work at a university and we have a lot of plastic fume hoods where chemical work is performed. Sometimes we have to modify the decks or tanks to accommodate the experiment that the professor or student is doing. We use a hot air gun with a narrow nozzle to concentrate the heat and the welding rod is what ever flavor of plastic that we are welding. Most of the time it is polypropylene. Most car bumpers are ABS which welds ok too.

eulogious, If you don't want to use a seperate flux for soldering, a few manufacutrers make solder with a flux core. I find it easier to get a good flow and stronger better looking joint using flux cored solder. Kester is one of the better solders out there, but most are satisfactory. I repair electronics on a daily basis and nothing feels bettter than fixing a dead board. Congrats on the repair.

That is good to know. Thanks for the prompt reply.

Fairtax4me, would you happen to know the part number for that piece. I have the same problem with worn out bushings. :-\ Thanks, Dean

Thank you for the correction Gloyale. I did read some about shimming the valves but did not realize that it pertained to the EJ25 too. Dean

I did get to looking at the soob but, I did not pull my IAC this weekend. As far as I know, it is not a solid lifter engine. From all the reading I have done, I am sure that it has hydraulic lifters. There should not be a need to adjust valve clearance once valve lash is set. I do see the possibility of failing lifters or valve springs that are getting weak. Nice pics!

Thanks for the updates. If I get the chance to pop the hood this weekend, I will check my IAC. I will let you all know too if it affects the cold idle if it is in fact dirty. My 1949 Ford project truck is yelling at me to get some work done since I have been neglecting it. Hopefully it will be on its' own wheels by this weekend. Dean

I believe that it is universal as it uses the OBDII port. Good luck on your test. I am interested on what you find.

I saw this from another post and thought you might be interested in it. I am thinking about getting it to check my brother-in-laws car (pontiac) that is having MAP issues. Plus it looks really cool........ http://search.store.yahoo.net/cgi-bin/nsearch?catalog=yhst-49187380673845&query=scangaugeII&searchsubmit=Go&vwcatalog=yhst-49187380673845&.autodone=http://www.rallitek.com/ Subynut, did notice one thing with the bucking issue. I found that it went away when the car was fully warmed up (according to the temp gauge at least). It only seems to occur when the idle was high during shifting while cold. Dean

Thanks '84. I work at GA Tech and there are quite a few floating around here. I am picking up a set of used WRX wheels from a student hopefully in a few weeks. Two more pics added, dimpled and slotted rotor and Sti shifter.

I know. :-\

Finally took some pics of my OBW. There is some sweet snow/ice action too. Hey that amount shut Atlanta down for 1 day!

I have the same problems (bucking and missifre) except I only have a 1&3 misfire. Mine is a 97 OBW 5sp 2.5 with approx 175K miles. I do not know if the motor has been replaced or not as I am not the original owner. The high revs when you push in the clutch seem to be the norm. Mine does the same when cold. I believe that it has to do with the fact that the engine is not warmed up and the A/F is slightly richer and there is no load on the motor like an auto trans equipped car to keep the revs down while coasting with the clutch in. The bucking thing I am still working on. It happens intermittently and the only way I have found to control it was by depressing the clutch and adding a little more gas. One theory that I have (and I am probably wrong:-\ ) is that we can catch the motor at the wrong time in the firing sequence while letting the clutch out and make it stumble, which can cause the missfire light. I have had it throw a missfire code once when I bucked it. Other wise the missfire continues to elude me. Most of my coded have occured while steady speed driving on the interstate. I have reset codes and had them appear in as little as 200 miles and as long as 6K miles. Plugs and wires are good ( just checked them just before thanksgiving). Other than that, mine like yours runs perfectly. Mileage is about 25-26 mixed driving. Sorry I don's much insight as I am still learning about this car. Hope what I have wrote helps. Dean

The cool thing is that engine speed is governed by the amount of fuel injected into the cylinder not air.

Glad you got it fixed. The green light shows you where the switches are at night.

From what the video says, it will be their shop car.

Saw this while cruising the link from the top 10 motors link. http://www.autoblog.com/2009/12/10/video-pia-cobb-tuning-give-the-full-sti-swap-treatment-to-subar/#continued Dean