Datsunrides

Ok, manage to get the needed work done today. So along with the weber carb, I decided I wanted to also replace the water pump while I was at it since the car was running warmer than I would have liked and I don't know how long it was on there. This would also give me the opportunity to change the lower hose to a NOS piece I have. Well, you know how they better to leave well enough alone? So, I start by draining the radiator, removing the belts and unbolting the water pump. So far, no problem, everything unbolts fine. I noticed one of the top 6mm bolts was a stud, which I found strange. Upon further inspection, somewhere along the way, the water pump was changed and probably broke that bolt off and instead of fixing it correctly, they drilled it out and mickey moused a (guessing) air cleaner stud in it's place. No problem I figure, I'll just helicoil it right? Wrong. It was already drilled out larger than the size needed for the helicoil. So not that big a deal, I would just install a spare external "pipe" i have except I know there is going to be a very high likelihood this would involve broken bolts, as the intake would need to come off. Well, I'm happy to report that after about an hour + of meticulous application of heat and PB blaster along with lots of ratchet action all the bolts came out without breaking! All threads were chased and the reassembly began with the replacement "pipe". Then installed the new waterpump. The NOS lower hose. The intake back on. And the weber installed. Hooked everything back up and filled it with coolant and Runs like a top!

So the car was invited last week to join a nice little ride down in the LA area with other select JNC's. Guess I better get that weber carb on there along with a few other things I want to do.

I bought the sedan rear seal from Phil's rotary. It is too short by about an 1 1/2" in height (width is ok), but the guy I had install my glass was able to stretch it to fit. You can see where it is pulling the corners and it is starting to split somewhat, but since being installed about 6 months ago, it has not gotten a whole lot worse. Considering there does not seem to be a option for the coupe, the sedan one will work. i thought about buying 2 and splicing it together, but my wallet wouldn't open. Mark

Thanks Leeroy, after doing some scouring, I did end up just getting the carb, air cleaner and adapter separate and saved about $60!

So I think I'm done trying to get the stock carb on my 73' working correctly and am going to just get a weber kit. Here is the question, which kit? K730 or K731? Or is there even a difference? Different sites have them listed both ways.

2 weeks to restore??? Are you really Chip Foose and the A team? The 80's rad *may* work, but I think it is bigger in every dimension and the lower hose outlet is different. If you got fab skills, anything can be made to work. I did just have my 73' original radiator recored so the cores are available if you want to go that route. As for parts, keep a sharp eye on ebay and here. I would say I was able to get most of the hard to find parts for my coupe with a lot of help from the guys here. I'm sure they will chime in soon. I have a few parts myself, but probably not much you can use as mine is a 73' Mark

Around here it's similar for seats, 200-300 per seat for a basic job, no fancy stitching or materials. Basically copying original. Door panels could be anywhere from $100-300 depending on how fancy you want to go. Not many option on door panels, unless you can find good used ones. For seats, you could find some good ones out of a newer car and retrofit them, saving a bunch of money.

Would anyone know the original part # or maybe a source for the fuel sender o-ring. I replaced the o-ring with the closest I could find, but I think it was not thick enough as I get a gas smell whenever the tank is over half full. I already replaced all the other hoses when I put her back together so this is my best guess.

I was going to ask about the cable, but I assumed that would have been the 1st thing you checked. Since the subject of the cable came up, did you check the pedal box when you changed the cable and make sure it's not cracked? That can cause weird things with the clutch. Mark

Wow, a tailgate wagon would pair nicely with my coupe. It is intriguing, but I wonder if I have it in me to restore another old subie. Mark

Most (non subaru) peoples 1st reaction is why did you restore that! Engine gaskets are relatively easy to find. If you mean the crush gaskets, good luck there. I may be the only guy that has any readily available . Honestly, it would probably be better to rebuild an solid deck EA63 (not easy to find) or EA71 motor. I do have a EA62 motor (1300) in unknown condition that I think can be a 1400 with just a liner swap. I would sell you the motor for a fair price if you want to see about building a motor before pulling yours. I may even be able to build it for you, time permitting.

Found one. Now, this is just the small one for the water pump to block connection, not the water pump separator plate. PM me your address and I'll stick in in an envelope and mail it if this is what you need. No cost. Mark

I may have an extra. Need to go digging so give me a bit.

Nice little writeup on speedhunters. http://www.speedhunters.com/2015/10/yep-its-a-subaru/ Mark

If you decide to rebuild the motor, and it's an original wet sleeve 1400, the copper crush gaskets at the base of the liners are an issue. There are/were some NOS liners and piston/ring sets on ebay for cheap and I *think* I have some surplus crush gaskets and ring sets for a 1400. Would need to verify if the rings are std or oversize and the crush gaskets are the correct ones. I guess they could be for anything from the 1100/1300 or 1400. Mark

No, not a factory option, dealer installed option. Nearly all japanese cars in the 60's until around mid 70's that had A/C were dealer options. Not sure with Subaru, but some manufacturers did make the kits the dealers installed but most were from a couple outfits in Texas. From my understanding by those more knowledgeable, kits for the 72'-73' coupe are hens teeth rare and I can tell you that you will not be able to use the stock shifter console with the setup I have. Mine has a cheap plastic shifter tray thingy. That said, it would not be that hard to fabricate something up with the universal hot rod stuff and may even be able to keep the original console. Mark

Thanks for the heads up Paul, but I had my originals rechromed, so not in dire need of these. However, if no other coupe guys want/need them, I may get them as spares dependent on the price. Keep me advised on any other goodies you guys turn up, especially any rubber bits. Mark

Ok, so there is another RUNNING GL only an hour south of me? Small world. Sounds like you are on the right track with the ring diagnosis. Excessive crankcase pressure is really the only way oil can be pushed up to the air cleaner. You could remove the hose and install a breather filter, but then you would be blowing oil all over your engine compartment. OH, NEED PICS OF SAID GL! Mark

LOL! Yes, I meant WCSS. Way too early to tell now, but I'd love to show it off to the PNW crowd. Not going to go in the mud pit though.

Thanks guys. Nice vid Bryan. Looks like I was going 80mph when it was really like 40! LA traffic. Mark

Just got back from the trip down to Long Beach for the JCCS show. The car had people around it all day and had a primo spot under a tree right in front of the registration booth. Most were surprised that Subaru made cars back then and I overheard a few of the "know-it-alls" comment to their buddies that the car was AWD! LOL Quite a few comments about the spare tire being missing. As it turned out, there was only 1 other Subaru there, a super nice Sambar truck, a LJ80 Suzuki and a Samurai in the judging group. Byran did stop by and checked out the car at the end of the show but was not able to actually make it in the show. I ended up passing him when we left the event so I did get to put eyes on his re-acquired beauty. What a super clean car. I think he took some pics or a video as I passed by. Maybe he will post it up when he gets a chance? Anyways, here is the hardware. Not to say I am not happy (OK, ecstatic) with the 1st place award, but because there was not a lot of vehicles in the class (but what was there was equally as nice and I could just as easily not gotten anything as the only gave out 1st and 2nd place) I am more proud of the JNC award as that could be awarded to any car there, and they chose to give it to my car. Blows me away a lowly little Subaru beat out all the other super nice cars there to get this award. I usually takes a week for them to get the pictures/comments up on their blog about the show. One of the organizers came and spoke to me at the end of the show and was happy that I brought such a rare car to the show and wanted to know if I would bring it again next year. Not sure how the cards will fall for that yet as I would like to take it to WCCS next year if it works out. Mark

I did follow your 5 speed thread and will use it when the time comes. I have a couple other unfinished projects to knock out, then I will fall back and swap in the 71 with 63 heads and 5 speed. Being realistic, at minimum, a year away. Right now, enjoying cruising around town and working the bugs out. Most of the issues are in the main cluster, but so far they seem to be simple dirty connections.

Have you looked into a title service? While you *can* swap vin's, you will still have the stamped vin on the firewall. I have not had to use a title service, but from what I have read, they title/register the car in a state that has low requirements for older cars, then you simply transfer the registration from state A to your state. Maybe a couple hundred and your legit. Oh, I think tachs were standard on GL trim. Mark

Your best bet to avoid breaking windshields is to cut the rubber out. If the rubber is still soft, you may get lucky and get it out with a LOT of patience. Old, dried out rubber will probably break anyways so just cut the rubber out with a new blade. (I personally use a sharp chisel) I believe you can still get seals thru precision products? I really don't think you want to try drilling out spot welds. There will be a lot of them and also crimped over edges. Most times the complete roof is cut off in the middle of the A/B/C pillars to install a roll bar, then welded back on. Since the roll cage is now your structural protection, the roof is just there to keep the mud out. Mark

I'm not aware of any Foresters made in the 70's. (wrong sub forum) Mark