Fairtax4me

Only other thing I can think of is maybe the PCV hoses are all clogged up with crud. You didn't ever say what engine this is.

If you feel comfortable lapping the new valves in yourself to ahead and get new valves. Depending on how bad the crank is, a common fix is to weld up the keyway and file/grind down the rough spots so a new key fits. Put a new (used) sprocket and pulley on and tighten the bolt down to about 140 ft lbs.

Broken crank bolt means someone didnt torque it properly after a timing job. The bolt came loose and the crank pulley tried to wobble its way to freedom. Get the front torn down and see if the guide key for the crank timing sprocket is sheared in half. It could also have reamed out the key channel in the end of the crank. No compression on #2 cylinder is not a good sign. Bottom end should be fine with that mileage. Depending on how bad the end of the crank is chewed up, you might be able to salvage this one.

High miles, 2wd, manual trans, and rust. I'd be looking to pay around $700. Maybe $800 if the tires are brand new. If it were a clean Awd with auto trans $1500 would be reasonable, assuming the tires, brakes, and exhaust system are good. Synchros are hit or miss and entirely dependent on how the car was driven. The trans I put in my 95 FWD has 230k on it and the synchros are great. Had to replace the mainshaft bearing at 220k because it was all chewed up. The original trans from my 96 AWD had worn out 2 and 3 synchros at 165k. Mainshaft bearing in that one bit the dust around 190k.

Is the clock built into the radio or the instrument cluster? Or is it a separate clock up on top of the dash? Have you looked in the owners manual for any clues?

My dealer couldn't even find that little seal. I needed one when I pulled my engine to reseal it a few years ago. They gave me a regular o-ring that wasn't anywhere near wide enough. I ended up just painting the old seal with RTV when I stuck the pan back on.

Most of the time if there is not a separate button you have to push the lock button once, then press it again and hold for a few seconds. Do you have the owners manual for the car? I would think detailed instructions should be in there.

Timing belt should match the heads. SOHC 2.2 and 2.5 have different belts because of the distance from the cams to the crankshaft is different. Water pump and oil pump are the same. Timing tensioner you will have to see which style you currently have and order a kit that matches. This will be an interference engine. It will have around 11:1 or higher compression ratio and will require premium gas. Injectors will have to match the intake manifold. The 2.5 intake will not bolt onto the 2.2 heads. Injectors are seated in the manifold, and IIRC are different between 2.2 and 2.5. You may be able to swap the entire fuel rail assembly with the injectors, but I'm not sure.

Transmissions wear out the mainshaft bearing around that mileage so listen close for noise with it in nuetral. If it goes quiet when you push the clutch pedal in it will probably need a transmission soon. 15-25k miles depending on how worn the bearing is.

The L models came with a 2.2. 99 was the first year of the second generation 2.2 (referred to as a "phase 2") which has different heads and intake than the previous years. Bottom end noise is not a common problem on the 2.2. Make sure its not the timing tensioner flapping around, or the cogged timing idler. Could also have a loose crankshaft pulley bolt. There is also a tendancy of the newer engines to have piston slap, which is totally benign, and goes away once the engine is warmed up. It can make quite a racket when the engine is cold though. If you do need an engine, you will need a 2.2 from a 99 - 01. You do have to option to put the 99 heads on the block you bought. Doesn't take long, and only about $100 for the gaskets you need.

Well there's your problem right there! Glad you got it sorted out, and thanks for posting the follow-up.

Could be the ECU or loose connection at the pins for the igniter or coil. Have you tried the wiggle test? Wiggle the wires at the coil and the igniter with the engine running to see if it starts firing right.

I don't know for sure that the engine has to come out, but I can guarantee pulling the engine would make it easier to get to. That said, this is a part that is sealed at the factory with RTV, and will probably never leak. More often than not leaks in that area are caused by Head gaskets, valve cover gaskets, or a leaking oil seal or o-ring. If you can't see exactly where the leak is coming from, clean the area well with purple power or engine degreaser, and try to find the exact source of the leak. 99.99% chance its NOT the oil pan.

Kinda strange name. Looks to be the same size as the second gen Legacy wagon. It not as stumpy looking as an Impreza 5 door. I like it.

Heat range of the plugs is different. No big deal though, the ones you bought will work fine. Oil filters are often different sizes as said by the previous poster. Again, not a big deal. Brakes can be tricky. I was not aware they even offered drums on the 2000+ Legacy. The normal rear brakes for several years before that were a rear disc service brake, with a smaller internal drum for the parking brake, which can look like just a drum brake if you only glance at it quickly. Take a second look at those. More than likely you have disc brakes in the back.

Just replace the whole door with a junkyard door. A skin is not easy to install without special tools, and will require painting afterward. Not to mention, the side impact bar behind the outer door panel is probably bent, which would necessitate replacing the whole door anyway.

It'll be fine to run on the front. Match it with the least worn of the other three, and leave it on the front next time you rotate tires. Had to do this on my 96 when I had a belt go bad. Bought two tires, and have left them on the front for the last 10k miles. I normally rotate at 5k, but they still have slightly more tread than the rears so I will leave them and check wear again at 15k.

If you had smoke coming from the fuse panel there's a serious problem there. Need to pull the fuse panel out and make sure the wiring and the connectors underneath it are Ok. I would recommend replacing the fuse panel with a good used one that is corrosion free. Unhook the battery until you have checked out the wiring under the fuse panel, or you may wake up in the middle in the night with the fire department in your driveway.

That's awesome that he helped you out! Good to hear everything went together and its running. Nothing quote like the feeling of a job well done after a big project.

Found a guy who rebuilds Porsche steering shafts with new u-joints. For about $200. Have also searched 4 different suppliers catalogs for u-joints and none even have a listing for one with bearing caps smaller than 0.75" diameter. So I must be looking in the wrong place.

Overall resistance I don't remember offhand. But here's the basic. Either outer pin to the center pin, you should have either high resistance, gradually sweeping to low resistance (or vice versa depending on which pin you choose. Switching top to bottom will reverse the resistance reading.) as you turn the TPS. This is much easier done with the TPS still attached to the throttle body, so you can use the throttle lever to turn the TPS. The reading should be a smooth change (easiest to see with an analog meter if you have one), if the resistance bounces around a lot and goes off scale the TPS is probably bad. Wiring. Center wire is the signal wire to the ECU. Top and bottom will be either 5V reference feed from the ECU, or ground back to the ECU. Easy to tell if you unplug the connector and turn the key On, check each pin for voltage. You should also check the TPS voltage signal back to the ECU while it is plugged in. You'll need a paper clip or needle to stick in the back of the connector. Check the reference wire for 5v with the key On. Check the ground wire voltage to be sure you have a good ground. Should be very close to 0V no more than 0.1V. Check center wire voltage. Adjust the TPS until you have about 0.51V at the center pin. Then sweep the throttle slowly all the way to wide open. Voltage should climb steadily to about 4.2-4.5V. If you have a jumpy (up and down) voltage reading, or voltage drops to 0 while sweeping the throttle open, the TPS is bad.

I had an outback one at one time and it was still a fair amount shorter than the extended one. But I have been looking on eBay and see some that may be close enough to work from newer cars. Ill have to get somewhat accurate measurements of the lengths somehow though.

Carbs were awesome before they tried to make them all electronical. Not very efficient, but simple enough for the most part that anyone could work on them. Had an electronic feedback carb (EECIV) on my 84 ranger that went haywire and screwed up all kinds of stuff. Swapped it out for an old 2150 and changed the ignition system to the old Duraspark II. Never had a problem after that. Ran great and would start every time.

If you have original Subaru axles, they can handle the difference. You may want to replace the boots on the axles to prevent them from splitting.

I remember seeing mention of replacement u-joints for the steering linkage here some time ago. I can't for the life of me find the thread though. (Hard to search on the mobile) Does anybody recall the source for these? Car is a 96 Legacy L. I have a 2" lift kit, with the linkage extended, so just grabbing a used one from a junkyard isn't really an option. I have the original which is still in good shape, but I would have to extend it to make it work. Thanks