Fairtax4me

You don't need the subframe spacers to match the struts. You will have better ground clearance without the spacers.

Posi-track/ slip-lock additives and friction modifiers make the fluid slicker, and will cause problems with the synchros. Avoid those types of fluid.

Regulator is built in. That's what you plug the wires into on the back. Make sure battery terminals are clean. Make sure the cable end on the alternator is clean and tight. If connections check out, Subaru sells remanufactured alternators for that car for around $80.

Turn the crank until the drivers side lines up. Remember to turn clockwise (viewed from the front). "Pop" isn't quite right. The crank pulley bolt is usually pretty tight. Factory torque spec is something like 130 ft lbs. for a manual trans car block the wheels, set the park brake and put the trans in 5th gear to hold the crank while loosening/tightening the bolt. For auto trans pull the inspection hole cover out of the bellhousing back by the PCV hose and put a big prybar or screwdriver in the flexplate. Or find the small holes in the sides of the bell housing and stick a screwdriver or large Hex key through into the holes in the flexplate.

Pretty common for the axles to seize in the hub like that. And yes, when they get stuck even the biggest most powerful presses can't get them out. I always coat the axle splines with a crap load of antiseize in case I have to take them apart again in a few years. The new knuckle will be close enough that the same marks can be used on the cam bolt. Keep an eye on tire wear over the course of the next month or so and watch for any feathering of the tread. If you get feathering have it aligned, and make sure to specify that you need the camber set. Some shops will just set the toe and let it go.

Kinda hard to give a crash course in how to use a multi-meter over the Internet. To check continuity you're using the lowest resistance setting which should be the 200 ohm scale on your meter. To check resistance we need to completely isolate the circuit that's being tested, which means it needs to be unplugged at both ends. So you need to unplug both the igniter and the coil. This ensures that you're only testing the part of the circuit that we're interested in, which is the wiring between the coil and the igniter. Only the red/green wire, and the blue wire at the coil go to the igniter. The yellow at the coil is your 12V supply wire which comes from the fuse box. It does NOT go to the igniter. Plus, we know that you have power there, so there's nothing wrong with the yellow wire. Find the red/green wire at the igniter plug, and check the metal terminal in the plug for corrosion or damage. If its clean, touch one probe from your meter to the terminal for the red/green wire. Touch the other meter probe to the metal terminal for the red/green wire at the coil plug. The meter should show 0 (or very close to 0, 0.01 is fine), meaning there is no resistance. Do the same check for the blue wire. You should have close to 0 resistance. If the meter shows OL (same as when the probes are not touching anything) this means the resistance is too high for the meter to read. Basically, the circuit is broken somewhere between the coil and the igniter. This could be a broken wire, or more likely a bad connection in one of the connectors between the coil and igniter. The only three connectors those wires go to are the coil, one of the large connectors at the bell housing (both wires go to the same connector), and the connector at the igniter. For right now, those are the only parts you need to focus on. Looking anywhere else is just wasting time. You don't need a coil. This is a wire problem, or a bad connection in one of the connectors between the coil and the igniter. The link I posted above is to a site with a Factory service manual for 1995 Legacy. It covers the entire car. The ECU pinout is in there in the troubleshooting section. It also has wire diagrams. You'll want to open it on a computer though because its 70 MB worth of PDF files.

Cork gasket will leak and will deform the pan. Ultra grey RTV works well. The new Ultra Black stuff works good too.

I run 80w90 Supertech (Walmart brand) in both of mine and it gives me the best results. Supposedly the best of the best is Subarus Extra-S gear oil, but its $15+ a quart. Walmart stuff is about $13 a gallon. I have run 75w-90 synthetic before and had issues with shifting when cold and when hot.

I've had crimps burn out several times. The rear defog grid is a high amp circuit. Really need really good crimps to handle the current in that circuit. Even then its best to solder the wires. You can do what heartless shows above, just be sure to use good heat shrink tube.

95 legacy will have a different pinout than what you found. Check here: http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/

Have to be careful putting sensors under the shift boot. Problem with that is the bushings in the shifter linkage wear out over time and let the shifter flop all around. It makes it so you have to move the shifter about 4 times as far side to side to find the gears. One day you'll end up breaking your sensor array without even realizing it. If you can make something weather-proof, you could attach the array directly to the selector shaft on the transmission and it would not be affected by wear in the linkage.

The ECU likely isn't the problem. The wires from the coil go to the igniter on the firewall. The ECU does not control the coil, the igniter does. Check the wires between the igniter and coil before messing around with the wiring to the ECU.

That looks like a spring for a 4 wheeler or dirt bike. I've seen enough hose clamps pop apart just trying to do what they're intended for (clamp hoses), no way I'd try to use them to hold a spring for a car. Don't try to strap the spring in such a way that it can't move at all. You need to let it unload it self when it comes loose, otherwise it may go flying when you're trying to undo the strapping, and your hands are in the way.

It does have a switch to tell when it is in gear, but it does not know exactly which one. Best place to get the tach signal is right off the back of the tachometer. I would have to look at a diagram for that car to know exactly which wire.

Pull the vacuum hose off of the fuel pressure regulator to check fuel pressure with the engine running. Should get up to about 45 psi and stay there. Also if you can get the pressure guage to a place where you can see it with the hood down, take the car for a drive and watch fuel pressure when accelerating. Make sure it never drops below 35psi. If pressure drops below 35 when accelerating or under load the pump may be going bad. A common cause for trouble like this is a bad Knock sensor. They're cheap on eBay. Under $20 shipped usually. Even if yours isn't cracked it could still be bad. Only thing I would do with the MAF sensor is clean it with MAF or electronics cleaner .

The 2 outer wires from the coil go straight to the igniter on the firewall, so you should have continuity from the coil to the igniter on those wires. The center wire as you know is 12v supply. Whether they're the same color at both ends I'm not sure. Check the plugs on the bellhousing because all of the engine wiring passes through there. Unplug, check for corrosion, plug back in.

Last time I made a pilot tool it was with a large 1/2" drive socket that fit into the clutch hub, slipped over a 3/8" socket extension wrapped with electric tape so the big socket fit snug. On the end of the extension I used a socket that fit into the pilot bearing. I think it was 10mm. Worked out better than the crappy plastic alignment tools they supply in clutch kits.

The problem could be that you have a much higher resistance than the grid is, between the power source and the grid. Or you have a broken wire between the source and grid. Able to pass enough voltage when tested with no load, but not able to carry the current necessary when the load is present. How did you repair the broken wires? Did you cut out the whole sections and solder in new? If there is an actual condenser (capacitor) in the tailgate, it would be for filtering out radio interference from the grid.

Bigger hammer. Put a jack under the bottom of the strut to take some of the spring pressure off the bolt, put a few socket extensions together and feed into the hole then smack the end with a hammer a few times. Should pop out. Wrap a towel around the spring beforehand to help keep it from going flying. Could also hook a ratchet strap to it and run it across to the other side of the car to hold it from flying out.

No, timing can jump on only one cam and cause misfires on just those two cylinders. The fact that it happened after driving could mean the tensioner was leaking oil and gradually got looser as you drove. Check the timing.

There is no fuse in the holder. You have to put a fuse IN the holder to make it front wheel drive. The fuse disables the AWD transfer clutch. FWD light in the dash should come on.

Is it really that hard to believe that the spring is just so worn out that it won't extend any further than that? You can see how rusted out the bottom coil is in the pics. It's not a different strut, its just worn out.

I probably should put it this way. ANY 2.5 is interference. 97 -01 2.2 is interference. Any 2.0 turbo is interference. 90-96 2.2 is non-interference. 90-96ish 1.8 is non-interference. Early 90s 2.2 turbo I'm not sure about. Hardly ever see those though, and usually have blown turbo or something else.

Probably damaged the timing tensioner and its letting the belt flap around and skipped. Pull the covers, check timing. Check the tensioner. Check any other parts you removed. When refilling the cooling system on these cars you have to fill the engine through the upper radiator hose before filling the radiator. If you just fill the radiator, the engine is left empty because coolant can not get in past the thermostat.

In the case of Subaru, yes. The Mainshaft is also the input shaft. Many transmissions have a separate input shaft and mainshaft. The mainshaft roller bearing is spinning whenever the clutch is engaged (pedal out). So if you push the pedal in and the noise goes away, there is a good chance it is a bearing or gear associated with the mainshaft. Mainshaft bearing noise will change with engine RPM when the clutch is engaged. Occasionally the release bearing will make noise when the pedal is out, usually when the clips that hold it to the lever break. It will make a rattling/chattering sound as the bearing bounces around between the pressure plate and the release fork. The way to differentiate between release bearing noise and mainshaft bearing noise is to put slight pressure on the cluth pedal. Only push it about an inch. If the rattle goes away, probably the release bearing. If you have a whirring or grinding noise with the clutch disengaged (pedal down) this is typically a bad release bearing, but can be other things depending on if the car is moving when it makes the noise. If it makes the noise when sitting still, mostly likely the release bearing.