Fairtax4me

Could have been replaced with the wrong type of plug. Certainly worth a look. If there's anything but NGK in there they need to be replaced.

I remember you had a thread about the swap a while back but did you do anything like plugs, wires, filters, PCV valve? Bad O2 sensors can cause that as well. Any exhaust leak between the heads and the cats, and occasionally have seen this caused by leaks at the flange behind the rear cat. Lots of things to check before replacing cats, but should the cats turn out to be bad, the set from your other car should swap in just fine.

Worn out spark plugs sounds most likely. How old are the plugs and how many miles are on the car?

Most of the time when both mirrors are affected it's the switch. Not hard to pop out of the dash. Take it out and disassemble it and clean up the contacts in the switch. Reassemble with some di-electric grease.

This ^^^ That's the way to go. Don't waste time with Chinese aftermarket parts store starters. Denso or bust.

Go to a dealer for the alternator or order from an online dealer. Those alternators were part of a service bulletin back from 95-99 and Subaru sells them remanufactured for less than auto parts stores. The Subaru remans are much much higher quality. The last one I bought was around $80. They may have gone up some since then.

That's pretty damn low to steal an air filter. Although I suppose you can be thankful he at least put one back... I'm cruising right now on an OE Subaru axle that came from a junkyard with a ripped boot. I cleaned and re-booted both ends, ran it about a year and the inner boot ripped. Then ran it another 6 months or so before I had the time to pull it off the car and re-boot it again. (Was in school at the time and driving 90 miles round trip 4-5 days a week) A couple months ago that same boot ripped again. Still haven't fixed it. It never has made any noise either. A lifted Subaru is tough on axle boots... Subaru axles are tough. Outer joints are a little different. They have a much tougher job since the wheel end has to turn on basically 3 different axes. An outer boot rips you have to take care of that pretty quick or it will eat up the joint pretty bad.

Only one cam sensor. Drivers side behind the timing cover kinda below the oil fill tube. That's the cause of your no-start. Either poor connection (maybe not plugged in all the way) or the wiring to the sensor is damaged and is shorting when it gets wet. Not often will those sensors fail so check wiring and the connector for corrosion/damage before replacing the sensor.

Look for a piece that looks like this laying around in any spare parts you might have had from the first time. https://intechbearing.com/products/lm104912-tapered-roller-bearing?variant=1098886697&dfw_tracker=21472-LM104912&gclid=CPHN8KuMzdICFYaNswodFQAIyA Not real sure how it could fall out and not be noticed, but maybe it stuck to the retainer and fell off somewhere while you were installing the new seal.

Subaru axles will click for thousands of miles and never give any real problems. Re-boot it again and ride. Aftermarket axle boots don't hold up as well as factory boots. I often see them ripped open looking like they've been cut but they just look like that because of the material they're made of.

Like GD said, the outer bearing cone is gone. Diff is probably toast at this point.

I've had a somewhat similar issue with new clutches in the past. Try adding some washers under the adjusting nut to pull the fork back further. Another thing to check is make sure the cable sheath is set properly into the bracket on top of the trans. If you have some thick o-rings you can add an o-ring around the rubber mount on the sheath to help pull the sheath back a little further away from the fork.

Not out of place at all, it's pretty common on Subarus in general. The newer ones seem to be especially bad, have seen several posts here and other places for the same problem on 10+ models. Had a couple bosses that were like that and they just had to figure out the hard way that usually my gut feeling was right. You find a couple things like that and save some time on a few diags and he'll cut you some slack.

Number one place to look for a wire problem. If you have a brake light fuse blowing out kinda randomly it's either wire damage at the hatch hinge or a corroded or melted brake light socket.

I use a hub grappler on most. Works great with the impact wrench and you can turn it with a breaker bar easy enough if you don't have shop air available. Haven't had one yet that wouldn't come out on the car with the hub grappler, but I don't work in the severe rust belt, so most cars here have only mild rust.

Didnyou adjust the cable so you have 1/4" of free play at the end of the fork?

You would have ended up changing the bearing anyway. When the axle nut comes loose the bearing gets loose and driving on it will chew up the bearing quick. Might not notice it right away but you won't get more than maybe a few thousand miles.

Don't unplug the battery. That may erase whatever codes are stored, and then the dealer will have nothing to check when they scan it for codes. Pay $100 diagnostic fee to find out you erased the only pertinent information. Often those lights will also illuminate when the check engine light is on. Depending on the fault type, the CEL may have turned on and right back off, but the other lamps stay illuminated because those systems will be disabled if the CEL comes on for any reason. This would be the result of a very minor fault code, but the code will still be sorted in the PCMs memory and will be retrievable as long as you don't erase it by disconnecting the battery. One thing you can check that's very easy is the brake fluid level. Since the ABS controls the Hill assist and VDC, any ABS related issue will disable all three systems. One thing the ABS system checks is brake fluid level and often during cold weather the brake fluid may get just low enough for the level sensor to trip the brake warning light on momentarily, then turn back off. If the fluid level is Below halfway between the full and low marks on the reservoir, this is a likely scenario. If the brake fluid level is low, add fluid to bring it up to the full mark.

In my 95 I'm running a FWD trans out of a 92 with over 280 on it now. I put a main shaft bearing in it a few years ago and it has made funky noises for the last 45,000 miles (though not as funky as it sounded before I replaced the bearing). It was a $500 car and a $125 transmission. Can't complain too much if it rattles some. Head gaskets aren't much concern. They're easy to replace and inexpensive. Run it until you start losing coolant then replace them, or just keep topping it off for the next 2-3 years.

Waste of money buying autolite plugs for that engine. Get a set of NGK plugs.

Yeah there were a couple years with the 5.4 that were like that too. Buddy of mine works in a diesel shop and does that kinda stuff all the time. Not my cup of tea.

I do love those. Especially when they break! Could be worse! Could be a powersmoke that you have to lift the cab off to put head gaskets on it!

You can sort of check three of the rod bearings through the oil pan if you're creative. Block has to be split to check them all. The rods are assembled to the crank and the case halves put together around it. Pistons are then pushed into the block and the wrist pins inserted through access holes at the bottom of the bores. If there is visible scoring of the cylinders a stone hone likely would not clean them up well enough. They would need to be re-bored and honed by a machinist. Any sort of honing requires splitting the block anyway.

Probably the rings got wiped during the break-in and never had a chance. You could pull the pistons out and just re-ring it. How do the cylinders look? Cross hatching still there? Any scoring?

Nah man, you only do that on important stuff like lug nuts.