Fairtax4me

No. Unplugging the knock sensor puts the ECU into a "Limp mode" of sorts. It defaults to a preset ignition timing pattern that is not advanced enough to allow pinging to occur. On some vehicles it may also cause the A/F ratio to go rich, but I'm not sure if Subaru does that. If the sensor is faulty it may not react to the pinging that may be occurring, but that is not the cause of the pinging. The sensor only tells the ECU if the engine is pinging, the ECU makes changes in the timing advance to try to prevent the ping. Inspect the knock sensor for cracks in the casing and corrosion underneath. If the sensor is cracked replace it. Be sure to clean any corrosion away from the mounting surface on the block. Lots of things can cause pinging. intake air leaks, faulty O2 sensor, dirty or faulty MAF sensor, bad ECT sensor, etc. Ideally pinging should not occur ever on a properly operating engine, but there are environmental and conditional factors that can or will cause pinging even when the engine is operating properly.

You've done one of two things, neither of which actually fixed your problem. 1: you've simply raised the height of the pedal, doesn't change anything in how the brakes work other than now you have to push the pedal farther. 2: you've adjusted the pushrod so the piston in the MC is now blocking the vent ports which allow fluid to exit the MC back into the reservoir. When brake fluid gets hot it expands, so the vent ports allow that expanding fluid to push back up into the reservoir. Now if the vent port is blocked, that expanding fluid will instead push the caliper pistons and cause the brakes to drag. Main reasons for a spongy pedal are: air in the lines (which you say you've bled several times, so we'll rule that out) old or low quality brake fluid, Seized caliper slide bolts or a bad wheel bearing causing the rotor on that wheel to push the brake pads apart. Two best things you can do to improve pedal feel are new fluid (valvoline synthetic Dot4 is one of the best and is commonly available), and replacing the brake pads with quality mild performance pads. Not all ceramic pads are created equal, and most parts store ceramic pads are designed for low dust and quiet operation, NOT for better braking.

Probably not a problem, but you can put some heavy grease on it and see if it changes anything. So many things that can cause rough idle problems. Plugs are new? NGK? All breather/PCV hoses are attached properly? No splits or cracks in the ends? Intake tubing is properly attached everywhere? Boost is controlled electronically on that year? Boost control valve is clean and connected properly?

Are you having some other problem that prompted the smoke test? It's not normal to have to replace a throttle body for a worn throttle shaft. Remove the throttle shaft and check it for wear. The throttle shaft doesn't have a perfect seal, older stuff usually had just brass bushings on either end. Newer aluminum throttle bodies probably just have the shaft ride directly in the aluminum.

Put a new boot on it. Aftermarket boots don't hold up very well. I've found that boot kits from the dealer are better (assumes that the parts person is smart enough to know how to look them up) You can get boot kits from SPFY. They cost a bit more but last a lot longer.

Either wrong rotor or wrong pads. The outer edge of the rotor should be about 1/8" from the edge inside the pad bracket. If the rotor sits close to the bracket, the pads are wrong. If there's a big gap the rotor is wrong.

The old 4 bolt transmissions had a different shape on top than the 8 bolt transmissions. IIRC you can move all the brackets over but you need to trim some material off of them to make them fit properly on the 8 bolt trans. The pivot stud also has to be moved but the hole should already be there and tapped. Just move it to the lower position.

DOHC engine you can't turn the cams out of sequence of the valves hit each other. Make sure the key notch on the crankshaft is straight down. Timing notch on the back of the sprocket lines up with the notch on the pump housing. Turn the exhaust cam to the right so it unloads and the valves will be closed, timing notch should point around 1:30. Then turn the intake cam to its timing mark, then turn the exhaust cam to its timing mark.

I'd say it's not safe to drive it like that at all. That's the kind of noise that WILL leave you stranded when it finally decides to quit, and catastrophic engine damage will be the end result. This might be a $200 repair now. But it will be a $2,000 head gasket and valve job or engine replacement if you continue to drive the car. Possibly the timing tensioner has failed. The timing covers need to be removed to check the idlers and the tensioner. When those tensioners fail they flop up and down and make a noise similar to that. If that's the case it needs to be replaced.

Glad they covered it under warranty. Seems like this is a fairly common problem, but it's an expensive problem so hopefully Subaru figures out they need to extend the warranty coverage.

When did it start doing this? How long have you owned it? Have you ever had either of the front axles replaced?

As long as the Pistons move freely knock the chunky stuff out and put it back together. If you're worried about further rust use a dremel or other wire brush tool to remove the major stuff and wipe the inside thoroughly with antisieze compound.

There are a few plug-in Bluetooth adapters that work with iPhone but you pretty much have to download the app and buy the specific adapter that the app works with. I've used Bluedriver for several years now and have been happy with it, but the adapter costs $99 now, and I don't think I'll be buying another one when my current one finally goes obsolete. You said traction control code before, but also TCU? TCU is the Transmission control unit. Transmission codes won't be related to anything at the wheels. Traction Control System (TCS) codes related to a wheel speed sensor will also be accompanied by ABS codes and an ABS light on the dash. If you have a transmission code, focus on the transmission, not the wheels.

That's not a switch it's the lock bar for the wire harness connector. You pulled that while the engine was running? That's bad because you can damage computer circuits by unplugging things with the engine running. If the connector separated when you flipped the lock bar earlier, you need to take it apart again and make sure none of the pins in there are bent. Plug it back in and lightly push the two halves of the connector together while you flip the lock back into place.

Still has air in the system, possibly bad head gasket forcing air into the system which will cause it to overheat.

Not likely. The OCV is on the cylinder head and it isn't necessary to remove it to remove the head from the block. Check the connector on the solenoid. (Try google for pics of the location)

Not on an 02. They stopped the hill holder around 98.

Try rocking the car back and forth a bunch of times, then try popping it out of gear. You can also try popping the clutch out with it running while pushing against the shifter. If you can't get the car to move ANY at all it's because the parking brake is stuck. Sometimes the cables freeze if they get moisture in them. Even with it in gear, the car should roll back and forth a little bit if the brake is off. It's not easy for a transmission to get stuck in two gears at the same time. The linkage inside is designed to prevent that, so it's unlikely for it to happen.

Clear it, see if it comes back? This code would be set if the circuit between the TCM and the lock-up solenoid is open or if there's a loose or poor connection in one of the connectors either on the transmission or at the TCM or one of the connectors in between. If it's an intermittent code a poor connection is most likely. The worst case scenario would be that the lockup solenoid has failed (could be poor solder joint or broken solenoid coil). This would require replacement of the whole control valve assembly since individual solenoids are not serviceable.

Was it below freezing this morning? Have you tried moving it since then?

I've never had a problem with a Subaru water pump not cooling properly. If the engine is running hot there are a handful of things that cause it, a failed water pump wouldn't even make my list of possibilities. It just doesn't happen unless there is severe neglect of the cooling system. (Never changing the coolant) If changing the pump during a timing belt service, Use a quality water pump like Aisin and you'll never have a problem with it.

Can you elaborate on the really lousy part? Lots of things can cause cold starting problems, but there are too many versions of "lousy cold start" to say what's causing your problem without having some more info.

How high is it idling? Should idle at around 750. If it's pulling hard when sitting still it's probably idling too high. These have a somewhat common issue with delayed downshifting when stopping or when stopped. The trans will hang in third or second gear. The jolt you feel is when the transmission finally kicks down to first gear. High idle will cause this. Always a good idea to change the trans fluid if you suspect a transmission problem. Even if the fluid appears clean it can often be worn out without looking so on the dipstick.

If the door fits it's pretty good chance the wiring would be the same. The connector for the window/door lock harness comes into the car behind the kick panel by your left foot. Remove the panel and the connectors are in there. The key cylinder is easy to have fixed. Find a locksmith in your area. lol it out of the door and take it to them. I paid $35 to have one done not too long ago.

Pistons are balanced as a set so installing one piston of a different manufacture can throw off the balance of the engine. Different piston design will also change the compression ratio of that one cylinder which will cause a large power imbalance.