Fairtax4me

Pop a new bearing in, it should be fine. A used knuckle is a commonly used option if you can get to a junkyard. I don't remember the brand off-hand, buy either of those is probably a good bet. Maybe someone else knows for sure and will post. I got one for my car from rockauto. It was one of the middle price range brands. But I made sure to get one that was rubber sealed. The inner half of the bearing failed because some dirt got in it when I changed the axle about two years before. New bearing with seals built in means no dirt gets in it if I have to change the axle again.

Does it only do this when sitting still in drive (or other moving gear) with the brakes applied?

Oh there are so many places where the cooling fan circuit can be messed with and make the fans kick on. You're gonna need a wiring diagram for this one. Check here: http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/ for a FSM for 97. Basically, the fans should not have power unless the main fan relays are being grounded by the ECU. If pulling the relays out makes the fans turn off, then the circuits between the relays and fans are Ok. The next thing to check would be the ground wires for the control side of the relays at the ECU.

I dont think there is supposed to be a bushing in the rear top hats. Pretty sure the OEs that I've dealt with are solid. The KYBs I put on the rear of my 95 were definitely solid. I have seen Mevo-tech parts and wondered if they were any good. I suppose one particular part out of the possibly hundreds of different parts that they probably make isnt enough to say the brand overall is junk, but certainly something to keep in mind.

Yes, and you can still select which gear you want to be in by moving the selector to that gear. Placing the shifter in 1 will hold the trans in 1st gear. It will not shift out of 1st even if run all the way to redline. Moving the shifter to 2 will start the transmission in 2nd gear only, and will hold it there. It will skip first gear entirely. It will not shift down to 1st, and will not shift up to 3rd. Placing the selector in 3 will allow the trans to start in 1st, up shift to 2nd, then to 3rd. It can then downshift from 3rd, to 2nd, to 1st. It will not go into 4th gear. If you run up to a high enough RPM with the selector in 1, then let off the throttle and shift it to 2 it may engage 2nd gear. If you do the same then shift to 3, it may skip 2nd and shift straight into 3rd gear. Shifting into D while going downhill may even get it into 4th gear. This will give an indication if it is a solenoid or hold clutch problem related only to 2nd gear, or if there is it a problem that affects all gears above 1, such as low line pressure, or a fault in the valve body.

Best way to check coil is to pull a wire off one of the plugs, stick a new plug in it and ground it on the engine/ body somewhere you can see while its cranking and look for spark in the plug. Slipped cam timing can cause no-spark, and much worse. Probably should check timing marks on crank and cams. Even if the belt looks OK, the tensioner used on that engine is known to fail and allow the belt to skip.

Reset the computer by unhooking the battery negative for about 10 minutes. When you hook it back up start the engine and let it figure itself out. DO NOT press the throttle to keep the engine running. If it stalls, turn the key off, then restart the engine. Do not touch the throttle. Let the computer figure out proper base idle fuel setting. Once it has warmed up and the fans cycle once, turn it off, restart, then go for a drive. The cams in the heads you bought have a different profile than the cams from your stock heads and the computer will need to re-adjust for proper air/fuel settings to match those cams. Resetting the ECU should allow it to re-learn its base settings and it should be fine after.

FSM lists, for no 1-2 upshift: Throttle position sensor, vehicle speed sensor problem (sensor 1 or 2), shift solenoid 1, 2-4 brake (holding clutch), control valve body problem, TCU. Low line pressure is also possible. Have you tried putting the shifter in 2, or 3, from a stop to see if it will engage? What if you run up to high RPM (close to redline) in 1 then shift to 2 or 3?

Do they stay on or cycle on and off? Check under the dash for the green test mode plugs and make sure they are UNplugged. There may be a set of black connectors as well which should also be UNplugged. Other than that, temp sensor wiring could be shorted, or the ECU may be bad.

Definitely get the lower stud popped out of the control arm before removing the strut bolts. Much easier that way than pulling the housing out of the knuckle. Loosen and remove the lower nut, then hammer down on the control arm right by the stud with a big hammer. Give the sides a good smack as well and that will help break it loose from the control arm.

Yes, check the emissions sticker under the hood if the engine is still in the car. If not, the only way to tell will be to look at the connectors for the main engine harness. Luckily, the whole harness comes off easily and most of the plugs should be the same on the sensors. So even if the harness isn't right, you can swap your harness off of your original manifold.

For cams get in touch with Delta Camshaft. Deltacam.com We have a member here who makes custom headers for both single port and dual port heads. His website is InfernoFab.com There are other options out there like eBay for intake/exhaust stuff. Andy'sautosport.com has a bunch of stuff. Check places like NASIOC for links to other bolt-on performance parts. Where to get general replacement parts kinda depends on what you need.

Are you sure it has a 2.2? The early Impreza 2 door usually has the 1.8. Look at the top of the block just behind the alternator at the EJ casting. The number after EJ corresponds to engine size. A set of cams is a cheap quick option for extra oomph on the bottom end. Combine with stuff like intake/exhaust and you get maybe 10-15 extra ponies overall. Biggest power improvement with the least cost would be to drop in a N/A 2.5 or build a Frankenmotor. (2.5 block with 2.2 heads) about $1,0p0-1,500 and you gain 30-50 Hp and torque.

How far off-road do you want to go? If you're just going on basic trails to a camp-site, the Forester will do fine. A set of off-road tires and a small lift will help out traction and ground clearance. But If you need to drive 6 miles into the woods with no trail and haul out a load of fire wood...

Cleaning the idle air control valve and throttle body should help. Make sure all the breather and PCV hoses are in good shape and connected properly, and check over all of the vacuum hoses for for any splits or cracks and loose ends.

Axles don't generally make grumbling noises like a bearing will. Unfortunately with Subaru bearings its very hard to tell exactly which bearing is bad until its completely toast. Often they make noise for thousands of miles with no other signs and no play. Changing an axle is the best time to check the wheel bearings because you can easily spin the hubs while the axle is out, and feel/listen for roughness.

Amazon lists that clutch kit for $153. Free shipping.

Cheap lowering kit! The rear springs on my 95 were so bad I could lean on the strut and compress them. Neither of them were broken yet though!

Big screwdriver or prybar through the inspection hole, or a the largest hex key or screwdriver that will fit through one of the holes in the side of the bellhousing.

You probably have a broken CV axle joint. Only the front drive is locked when put into park. The rear is still free because there is no fluid pressure on the rear drive clutch pack. If one axle is broken the rotation of the opposite axle is just transfered through the spider gear of the differential which will spin freely and cause the broken axle to turn the opposite direction. Put the car in drive and set the parking brake. Chock the wheels if the park brake will not hold the car still. Then open the hood and look at the front axles. Good chance one will be spinning.

Possibly severe overheating? How did the bearing look? I see you have a new crank already. Don't re-use that rod.

Exedy makes the OEM clutch for Subaru. I have Exedy clutches in both of my cars and they are great. You can find a better price on that kit though, and get free shipping. Also, that seller has the wrong interchange part number listed in the description. Has the part number for a 2.2 clutch (15010). The clamping strength of the 2.2 pressure plate is lower, and may cause slipping if used on a 2.5 engine. Make sure you get a KSB04 kit.

Very common, the crank bolt comes loose and the pulley starts wobbling and beats itself up. Plenty of people run the one piece pulleys. Just be sure to get the bolt good and tight or you'll have the same problem again.

If you have time to wait, get it machined to try and take most of those out. Probably wouldn't cause a problem with engagement but they can cause premature wear on the clutch disc facing that runs against the flywheel.

There should be a spring "wave" washer between the rocker and the support bushing that is bolted between the rockers for each cylinder on the intake side. I can't find a good picture of it online. Check between the rockers on the other cylinder and you should see them. Those washers have a tendancy to break in the middle and fall off. They just settle to the bottom of the oil pan out of the way, but it can cause issues with wear on the valve stem because the rocker is not held in the correct position without that spring. This doesn't typically cause a lot of noise, unless it has worn the valve stem so much that it pushes the valve sideways as its opening. It might make a click or snap noise as it starts to push the valve open, then again when it closes. Put a drain pan under the head and start the engine and see if the rocker is knocking around.