Fairtax4me

Yes, be sure to replace the water pump along with the timing belt since the pump is driven by the belt. eBay is actually a good source for timing kits with the water pump included. MizumoAuto and TheImportExperts both have decent kits. I like the Mizumo kits because they come with oil seals, and they offer an Aisin brand water pump which is an OE part manufacturer.

You may not need heads. I'd hang a new timing belt on it and see how it runs before putting money into heads. If it doesn't run well, then yes, 93 heads will work fine with the 96 head gaskets. Just have to find a dual port exhaust Y-pipe to put on it and you'll be good to go. The 93 heads will have a different tappet style cam and rockers, so it may feel slightly different once its running. You can swap the roller cams and rockers from your old heads into the 93 heads if you feel like it. Just be sure to match the cams with the rockers.

Too much toe angle in the rear will cause it to be kinda squirrely. Front toe can affect that as well since it makes turn-in easier. You could also have both tires toed the same direction (both point right or both left) which would throw off the thrust angle. Same deal with camber. If one wheel is positive and one is negative, even a small amount, it will tend to jump towards the positive side when you hit a bump and make the car feel like the back end wants to do the steering. Especially on slick roads. Pad material and rotor quality make a huge difference in braking power. A set of decent quality ceramics will help with the stopping distance. If you want a big improvement for minimal cost get a set of EBC Red-stuff pads. Great pads with good cold bite, and excellent high temp. fade resistance.

I would reasonably expect 150k out of the clutch. Subaru clutches are known to last for 200k or longer with good diving habits. I replaced the original clutch in my 96 Legacy at around 175k. It was worn when I bought it at 165k, and it finally started slipping after we got almost 2 feet of snow back in 2009. That said, I'd still suggest you try driving the new CVT. They've been on the road since 2010 and are proving to be quite robust. They also offer better fuel economy than the manual trans. 16" tires will be cheaper. Head gasket issues seem to be gone on the new F series engines, but I'm not sure they've been out long enough to say they're definitely cured. Timing chain maintenance interval is like 250k miles. They're practically lifetime of the car these days. A far cry from the old American V8 days where you had to replace it every 75k miles.

5w30 synthetic. Pretty much any brand will do. Even the wal-mart Supertech brand synthetic has decent reviews on Bobistheoilguy.com forums.

Something's off. Get a real alignment done. My 96 is straight as an arrow at 40+ on snowy roads. Have done almost 60 in snow with that car but that was pushing my comfort level to the extreme. Solid as a rock the whole time.

The only difference I can imagine would be the shape of the connector. All it is is a magnetic pickup sensor. They all work the same way. Personally, I'd grab a few from a junkyard. They're small enough to stick in your pocket, and they practically never to bad. If you can't get to a yard to pull a few yourself check out car-part.com to see if anywhere nearby has one. Or post a want ad in the classifieds here.

Post pictures of which connectors you need, or give the names of the components they go to. That may help determine if you can use plugs from another harness or if you need parts specific to the Turbo harness. Another option might be to check the classified section here, and on LegacyCentral.

You have 4 years and 40,000 miles before the timing belt is an issue with that car. 10 year / 105k mile change interval. Head gasket leaks are common but with that engine no big deal as long as you keep an eye on fluid levels. Make sure all 4 tires are same size brand and tread wear. If they just put two new tires on the front that's bad and it will need matching new tires for the rear. Other than that, not much goes wrong with those at that mileage. Just make sure it isnt beat to hell. (Body damage and interior damage/wear) How much are they asking for it?

Flashing check engine light means it has a steady misfire. Cruise will be disabled when the CEL comes on. The blinking cruise light means it is disabled, not due to a fault with the cruise system. Fix the CEL and the cruise light will go out. That said, get the codes scanned. Most parts stores will scan them for free. That should help point you in the right direction. How long has it been since it had a tune-up? Did you get the timing belt replaced at 105k?

Not sure how long it will fool the ECU since it uses the temp sensor for checking the operation of the emissions systems, but worth a shot. Pick any resistance that's within the normal range of a temp sensor and wire it in. Might work.

Hydraulic lifters are nice for keeping away noise, but collapsed lifters making noise is not the only problem they can have. They can also clog and pump up TOO MUCH and hold the valve open. Clicking lifters almost never cause misfire or rough running problems. But one that holds the valve partially open will cause a misfire for no obvious reason.

Pretty sure its the pump side. Should have 5 or 6 wires there. Two for the pump, two for the level sender, and one or two for the temp sensor depending on its design. Definitely double check any wiring you might have done just to be sure.

Temp sensor is built into the sender unit IIRC. Do you have the sender from the other tank? Was it the same? You could check resistance of the temp sensor. Make sure the terminals in the connector are clean. Other than that I think you'll have to pull the sender unit and replace the sensor if possible. I think you have to replace the whole sender unit just to get the sensor though.

That car would sell for 10-13 here with that mileage. Selling price depends on the buyer and the market. People here looking for a WRX will travel 3-4 hours easy to buy one, and will pay big bucks for it. Not sure I'd pay 12gs for a 10 year old car, but to each his own. I paid 12,5 a few years ago for my 02 Lincoln LS, but it was only 6 years old with 55k on the clock. Comparing apples to oranges there though.

Ah I see you have a separate reservoir. The older ones had the reservoir right on top of the pump with an o-ring to seal the two together and a rubber coated washer inside to seal the bolt that holds the reservoir on. Yes, the case seam does leak on these pumps. That will require at least a partial rebuild to replace. The rebuild kit comes with all new seals, but the front seal is only replaceable by pressing the shaft out, which requires a new bearing, usually not included wih the kit. IIRC is is a standard 6203 rubber sealed ball bearing which is only about $5 at Napa.

Yup. No point having it if it isn't being used. Takes out 2 bearings that can possibly fail. (The one in the compressor pulley, and the one in the tensioner) Less drag on the engine because it doesn't have to spin the extra belt and pulleys. All around better for fuel economy, even if just slightly.

I would try to get an idea of just how much compression you have and run a leak down test to see what/where it might be leaking. Also agree with the vacuum guage, very useful if you know how to interpret what it's telling you. You're using 22E heads right? Solid lash adjusters or hydraulic? Have you checked lash clearance?

That belt only drives the AC compressor. Has no effect on anything else at all. If youre not gonna have AC, ditch the belt, ditch the compressor. It's dead weight. 4 bolts and you can toss it in the scrap pile.

The pumps are fairly easy to rebuild. If replacing the lower reservoir o-rings doesn't fix it rebuild the pump. Engine oil leaks are common as well. Valve cover gaskets often leak all over the subframe.

Yes, every car has one. It is in the middle of the brake booster vacuum hose which leads from the engine to the brake booster servo. Open the hood and look at the large round (probably painted black) cylinder behind the brake fluid reservoir. It will have a metal nipple sticking out towards the engine with a large hose attached. (Approx. 5/8" diameter) Loosen the clamps with a pair of pliers, remove the hose from the booster and engine. Be sure to note which end goes where, since it will not hold vacuum in the booster if you reinstall the hose backwards. Spray wd40 linerally into either end, until it runs out the other side. Blow it out with compressed air if available.

Amazon had lowest price on the Gates kit last I heard.

Probably will be this weekend before I get to mess with it again. John I have no idea if it has the remote entry unit. I could not find a unit that matches the descriptions Ive read of what the Entry module should look like, under the drivers side dash, which is where I've read it should be mounted. Do you know where it's supposed to be mounted? The next place I'm going to check is to the right of the glove box since the FSM shows that's where the connector should be for the Security Module.

If the part number on the side is the same then it'll work. IIRC it ends with AA260

One time has always taken care of it in my experiences. Off, then back On, and the light is out. If the light is still on then there is likely a problem. What method did you use to retrieve the code? Did you try to clear the code afterward?