Fairtax4me

Perhaps you've entered... The twilight zone...! 0.o

Timing could have jumped on the 1/3 cam shaft. Pull the timing end covers and see if the marks line up. Line up the notch on the drivers side cam sprocket with the notch in the cover.

Did this start right after the seal was replaced?

Sounds like bad bushing on the driveshaft carrier bearing. Could also be an axle problem.

The vent control solenoid is responsible for allowing the vapors to escape the tank while filling. The vapor is pushed through the charcoal canister and mostly clean air comes out of a filter attached to the canister. Since you have a code for the vent solenoid Id suggest removing it and seeing if its clogged. Do the same with the filter for the canister. It's a round can and about the size of a tennis ball. There should be a hose from the filter that sticks into a hole in the frame. Pull the hose out and see if a spider or moth has built a web home in the end of the hose.

Possible that cylinder is too lean at idle. Could be a bad intake manifold gasket. Check for vacuum leaks by spraying throttle body cleaner around the manifold gasket. If you have TGVs be sure to spray both the lower and upper gaskets.

Possible this is being caused by a loose intake hose on the turbo or throttle body. Anytime you have an EGR code you should remove the EGR valve and see if it needs to be cleaned. Was the EGR temp code saying the temp was too high? If so that would indicate the EGR valve is stuck open, which will cause idle problems and stalling. Your "squirrel" could be back pressure in the exhaust being forced past the partially stuck open EGR valve, making a whistling noise in the process.

Those were just old leaks. When the front seal leaks it runs down the inside of the bellhousing, runs back and leaks directly onto the center of the y -pipe from the trans drain plug. The crud on the cross member is YEARS of small drips and oil running back off the engine and being blown onto the cross-member by wind under the car while its driving. A little drip, a little dirt sticks to it, some more drips, more dirt, and so on. After a while you have a layer of caked on dirt and several year old oil. Break out the purple power and a scrub brush and clean all that off if it bothers you.

Always check the bulbs and fuses first. Does it use the headlamp bulbs for the DRLs? Or a separate bulb? Do the high and low beam headlamps work normally?

This is valve cover gaskets, cam plug seals, or separator plate, or the rear wrist pin access cover o-ring, or a combination of any or all of those. When the input seal on the trans leaks it runs down from the bottom of the snout on the transmission. Sometimes they run out the front and get all over the clutch.

You should be getting at least a gallon and a half to go back into the system when refilling. Since its fine when driven easily this is probably a clogged radiator.

The front seal only leaks when the car is moving forward. The ring gear of the front diff slings oil up onto the back of the seal as it spins. Sly, if the trans is popping out of gear there is wear being caused to other parts of the trans which can lead to other failures down the road. Probably better off to just find a used transmission rather than try to repair the one you have. Replace the clutch when the trans is out. When the mainshaft bearing goes bad it stresses the clutch hub and eventually breaks it. If it hasn't broken already it is now fatigued and may break later.

ECU is under the carpet in the passenger floor up under the dash. Two or three clips and pull the carpet back then remove 3 10mm bolts and a 10mm nut at the top of the metal plate. Remove that then the ECU is staring you right in the face.

If you have a factory service manual the info you need should be in there, but some things are difficult to find. The chart should be in the troubleshooting section. But if you can't find that look in the wiring diagrams for electronic engine controls. The TPS wiring will be there and should show which color wire and which pin it attaches to the ECU with a picture of the ECU connector at the bottom of the page. Once you find the right pin, check for voltage on that pin with the connector plugged in. If its less than 0.5v unplug the ECU connector and use a long jumper wire to check for resistance to the TPS connector. Also check for dirt/corrosion in the terminals.

Sounds like its losing vacuum or the actuator servo isn't holding vacuum. Did you install the cruise? Does it use a vacuum pump or engine vacuum for the source?

The IACV is not meant to be adjusted without having a scanner or o-scope connected. The adjustment is only to set the range of opening that the ECU can control, it will not increase or decrease idle speed. The ECU will change the opening of the IACV to raise or lower idle speed when it needs to, and will learn the optimum IACV opening. The result is, you make an adjustment idle speed changes for a little while, then the ECU tries to set it back to where it should be at 750 rpm. When it can't set that idle speed it sets a code for the IACV because it assumes the problem is with the IACV not reacting to the commands to raise/lower idle. Did you get the speedometer issue corrected? Are there any other codes besides the p1507? When you replaced the IACV did you replace the whole valve or just the electric driver on top?

Junkyard is your best bet. If those are just spade terminals you can clip the wires, crimp new spade terminals on and plug them in without the plastic housing. Just be sure to tighten up the terminals with some pliers before plugging them in to prevent a loose connection issue in the future. Skrink wrap the ends, or buy spades with shrink already on them.

The bearing you need is only available from a dealer. You can get the input seal there as well. Part numbers: Seal: 806725090 $8.97 Ball bearing: 806225100 $66.48 Needle bearing: 806427020 $32.67 The ball bearing is the one that normally fails and it usually makes quite a racket while its on its way down the tube, but the beginning signs can be subtle and last for 15-20k miles before becoming apparently bad. Open your door with the engine running, trans in Nuetral. Listen closely as you depress and release the clutch pedal in about 3-5 second intervals. If the mainshaft ball bearing is bad you'll hear a muted whirling type sound, usually very faint, as you release the clutch. The sound will continue until you press the clutch down, it will then disappear entirely. When you release the clutch the sound will return again. If you tear down the trans to replace the ball bearing the needle bearing at the front should be replaced as well. If your trans does not make the noise described above then you may only need the seal, but that still requires splitting the case to replace.

Really need an actual P0XXX code if you can get it. "Catalyst efficiency below threshold" is the closest I can find to the parts guys statement.

Legacy or Outback would be my first choice. New Tribeca would probably be the quietest but its also the most expensive and the largest, and only comes with a 6cyl. If you want the biggest most expensive gas hungry vehicle the Tribeca is perfect.

Now you need to check signal voltage at the ECU. Find the ECU I/O pinout chart for your year so you know which pin to check. If ground were no good signal return voltage would be high.

Pull the plugs out (also unplug the injectors) and it only takes 10-15 seconds of cranking for the light to go out, and there is no load on the bearings.

Nope, just yank the cover off and toss it. The cover is the reason the filler pipe rusts so bad. It traps all the dirt and crud and salt that gets thrown up from the tires in the rain/wet.

This could be a wiring problem with the headlamp circuit. With the lamps on check for voltage on all three wires with the headlamps on low, do the same with all three on high. On low you should have 12v on two wires, and close to 0v on the third. (The third will be the low side ground wire). On high there should be 12v on two of the wires (the low side ground being one of them), and close to 0v on the third. The third now being the high side ground. Anything more than 1V on the ground side wires indicates a wiring or connection problem to ground. Corroded frayed or broken wiring, poor connection at the head lamp dimmer switch, poor contact in the dimmer switch, poor ground for the dimmer switch, or poor connection in the junction connector where the wiring comes through the firewall. Measure battery voltage with the headlamps on lo and hi. If the feed wire voltage drops more than 1v lower than battery voltage there is a problem with the power feed circuit. Poor fuse connection, bad fuse, poor relay connection, high resistance in the relay contact, or corroded frayed or broken wire.

Search for "Franken motor". Common swap and lots of info out there. Big thread at NASIOC with specifics and power numbers.