Fairtax4me

Wrong part, take it back and get the correct one. If the ring won't come out and is indeed held in a groove then you should be able to pop the "new" axle in without a snap-ring and the old ring should clip around the axle.

20 at idle is fine, though I suspect the engine and oil were not completely warm. Idling in the driveway for 20 minutes doesn't get it warmed up quite as much as a good drive will. Warm oil pressure is the lowest spec you should expect to see when the engine and oil are completely warm. This usually means about a 20-30 minute drive to get the oil up to full temp. Oil viscosity will affect warm idle pressure as well. The spec is for the recommended 5w-30 under normal conditions. If you're running 10w-40 the pressure may be higher depending on the conditions being operated in. (for example, if the climate is too cool to really need 10w-40)

Correct.

The damage was already done before he tried to start it. When they break at highway speed the cams always have just enough momentum to open the next set of valves. So maybe 2 extra valves got bent trying to start it after the belt broke, that's $25 worth of parts. Bottom end damage is rare on these cars. The pistons get knicked but its only superficial. Never heard of bearing damage on one of these because of a broken timing belt, though I did see one picture where someone actually brok a valve and it bounced all around in the cylinder before the engine could be stopped. I think he was racing though. Heads are doable in the car, but definitely easier if the engine is out on a stand. Get head gaskets from Subaru. I've seen several recommendations to get gaskets for a turbo 2.5. The turbo gaskets apparently hold up better. And yes these heads need to be milled flat. The MLS head gaskets don't seal properly unless the heads are perfectly flat. While the engine is out reseal the separator plate in the bellhousing, and replace the access cover o-ring opposite the separator to prevent future oil leaks.

Won't be able to make that swap work. Not easily at least. That SOHC engine has too many differences in electronics. You would need heads intake manifold, and the whole wiring harness and ECU to go with it. Much easier to find a 95 dual port 2.2 and put those heads on the 2.5 block. Still need the manifold to go with the heads, but the electronics are identical to your 98, so you just plug the manifold harness into your existing ECU and go. This swap will raise your compression and require you to run premium fuel though.

Is the old snap ring not still on the end of the old axle? They don't fit into any groove in the side gear. It slips all the way past the gear then expands to hold the axle. If it did fall off inside the diff, it fell in the middle of the carrier between the side gears. So if you rotate the diff, it should fall out of the bottom of the carrier and to the case bottom. I don't think this is what's keeping your "new" axle from going in.

Probably cooked the coil. Check resistance of the secondary winding, probably low.

The part listed above is rated for 85 amps. Pretty sure a Tribeca alternator is in the 130 amp range. The rear bearing may be visible from outside of the back of the case. Rear bearings hardly fail though since there isn't much load on them. The brushes are at the back end of the rotor just inside the rear case. If you feel like taking the case apart new brushes are only about $10.

Go to the dealer and ask for one. Or oder online. Part number: 23700AA34A They may have superceded this number now but any dealer catalog will show the new number. Lists at $78, 1stsubaruparts.com sells it for $67.50 with a $50 core charge.

If you're swapping the engine and the ECU goes with it. The ECU doesn't particularly care what cars it's in as long as it gets proper power and ground. Carry over the wiring harnesses with the engine and ECU, and use a pinout chart for the ECU to determine which wires can be cut out and which ones need to stay. The things that are absolutely necessary kind of vary though.

Have you removed the belts and spun all of the pulleys to make sure its not the AC belt idler tensioner? Most of the time a squeak from the alternator itself is from the brushes. Brushes aren't easily replaceable on these. 95-99 alternators can be picked up remanufactured from Subaru for about $75, and have more than enough output to run a small sub.

Pros= good gas mileage, Ultra reliable engine. FWD has fewer parts to wear and cause problems. Cons= not much power, FWD not as good in snow or rain as AWD.

EJ25 has too high compression to reliably accept turbocharging. If you have to ask what all goes into a turbo swap, you probably shouldn't be trying to do one. Much easier to just buy a Turbo car than to do a swap. A turbo swap into that car is difficult enough with a parts car. Buying all of the necessary parts separately is a huge undertaking.

Cold startup you'll see around 70-75 psi. The pressure bypass valve is something like 70 psi (I don't recall exactly), and it'll go straight to that with 5w30. At warm cruise you'll be around 25-30 psi at 2,000 rpm, 30-35 at 3,000, and should have another 10 psi for every one thousand rpm above that. Only at idle that it settles down around 10 psi.

A 10 psi switch might be less useful than you think. Spec for these engines is only 10-12 psi at warm idle. But I suppose of you know the switch is set for 10 psi, the flickering pressure light at idle wouldn't bother you. I'm sure it would scare the crap out of anyone else who drove the car if they know what that light is for. And I agree, mechanical gauges are worrisome. I've heard too many stories of the line rupturing or leaking inside the car. End links are one thing I've found rockauto to be way overpriced on. These guys sell German made end links for under $10 each. http://www.fcpimport.com/products/subaru-suspension-stabilizer-bar-link-legacy-impreza-forester-outback-baja-101-4457

I'm not aware of any oil pressure switches that operate at more than about 7 psi. Better off to just put a guage sender in place of the switch and forget about the light altogether. But if you want a light and a guage, dodge used to have a pressure sender and light switch built into the same sensor. Just have to find an electric guage. Problem with the sway bar end links is the way the suspension articulates. As the control arms swing down the mounting points for the sway bar links swing inwards, and they swing in quite a bit at full extension. Jack up the car and try to remove the lower bolt that holds the link. You'll see how far the bushings have to deflect to allow for suspension movement. A chunk is steel is just gonna break, or cause something else to break. I'm not a fan of the design either but the only other way is to use ball-joint type end links. I'm not sure that the links used on the newer cars will work. If you want a tougher alternative you can get aluminum end links Crome whiteline and I think a few other places (Rallispec maybe?) that have poly bushings in them. But they're $$$. The nylon composite end links hold up just fine to everyday driving.

There are stories of onethat was taken to shop and a 30-40 ton press couldn't get the axle out of the hub. These are often stuck in there really good though. If a 3lb sledge wont budge it after a few hits, a hub puller can usually get it loose without mushrooming the end of the axle.

There's a button under the dash that you have to press, but it can be a pain to find. My favorite way is to connect the battery with the key on.

The engine should not be nearly stalling just from removing one plug wire. Pulstar plugs are probably the problem. Certain spark plugs do not play well with wasted spark ignition systems. Switch back to regular NGK V-Power copper and the misfires will probably go away. Removing the bulb or the wire for the CEL bulb will probably get you an automatic fail. The bulb must work to pass emissions testing in VA, I assume that is true for other states as well.

That's the only thing you can do with the 2000 block. Be sure to swap over the crank timing sprocket as well.

Probably not the best idea. The bolt will break or break the mount on the control arm when the suspension moves. Have to have the bushings to allow the bolt to twist in the end link. The composite links are not normally a weak link unless the car is being used for racing or serious off-road use. And as with any other material they will fatigue with age and use. A new set of composite links isn't that expensive and will likely last the rest of the life of the car.

Thanks for the update. Glad to hear its fixed. Never knew the BPT could be taken apart, will have to remember that if I ever need to check one.

Easy way is to back probe the center pin on the TPS connector. (Use a needle or paper clip) Turn the Key to ON then adjust the TPS until voltage on the center pin is at about 0.52v. Turn the key off, unhook the battery negative for about 10 minutes to clear the codes and reset the ECU. Reconnect and start the car and you should be good to go.

No need to drain the oil. Both are well above the oil level. Clutch PP should only go on one way IIRC. Just line up the alignment pins. If the pins in the flywheel dont line with the pressure plate rotate to the next set of holes. Flywheel to crank alignment doesn't matter. They're balanced independently of each other.

How long have you been getting these codes? Have you cleared them and both came back? Any other codes besides those? Is it an auto or manual trans?