Fairtax4me

These almost never leak oil at the top of the heads. AVLS switch or solenoid, oil pressure switch( under the alternator) , or the power steering pump leaking are far more common.

Probably have bent valves. That's an interference engine and if the crankshaft pulley came loose there's a chance the timing belt jumped, or if you had the timing belt off, you could be using the wrong marks to set the timing. Backfiring indicates a timing or valve problem. None of the codes you have will prevent starting.

It's hitting a rev limiter because something is wrong. You need to have it scanned to figure out why the check engine light is on. What codes does it have stored? To say it's " Well maintained " doesn't imply much if the CEL is on and you don't know why.

Glad to hear its fixed! Sorry it was the expensive part rather than something simple.

Alternator most likely.

Bottle of water? Usually I just bump the door with my hand a few times and it cracks the ice out of the way. There is a spray on ice melt solution for windsheilds that you could keep a bottle of in the trunk just in case.

Don't think you'll find that size in the KO2. Maybe the new rugged terrain. Offset should be roughly the same for that size but you can probably do anything down to about -25 before wheel bearing problems start to become an issue.

If the lights not on don't complain! Those things are nothing but an annoyance anyway. If the light comes on its because the tires were already about 7psi low and have been low on pressure for a LONG time before the light ever came on. Damage to the environment and your wallet already done at that point.

NTN, NSK, and KOYO are the big leaguers in Japanese bearings. Depends on the year of the car, they switched manufacturers a few times. Doesn't really matter if you get one of those three you got a top quality part.

Jealous! <--- I'm in Central VA. I'd love to fish for some of those Giant bass out in Cali. What yak do you have? I've been looking at yaks since this last spring and was about to drop the money on a Predator a few months back until I heard about Bonafide kayaks. And since it was coming up on fall and my fishing time would be limited anyway I decided to wait and try out the SS127 when they get it in stock at Appomattox river co. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/149436-subaru-drivers-fishing-hunting-reports/page-3?do=findComment&comment=1373417

That's Awesome! Trout? Panfish? Bass? I fly fished some when I was a kid and just sorta got back into it this fall. I say "sorta" because we've had a colder than usual winter and all the trout waters around here are frozen or they're dry because of the drought we've been in! Most of the lakes and ponds were frozen too a couple weeks ago. Starting to warm up though. I usually do most of my fishing for bass. We have a fishing and hunting thread in off-topic, you can post pics of some of your catches!

Let us know how it turns out! Hopefully it didn't destroy the tail housing on the trans. Driveshaft is about $700 from Subaru but that's going to be the best option for a good quality replacement. Aftermarket parts can be hit or miss and just aren't worth the money. even if they potentially save some up front, you'll pay more in the long run. Tightlines? Do you fish alot?

If you get one from a yard make sure the pan isn't crushed in. The solenoids on the valve body can be damaged easily if the pan gets dented.

Pressure control solenoid doesn't have any bearing on fluid flow. It bleeds off some of the pressure if the pressure gets above a certain threshold which is determined by fluid temp/gear position/and several other factors on some electronic controlled trans. There are PSCs that work based on mechanical pressure differential. Also keep in mind this is not a sensor, and doesn't reflect or indicate a pressure problem. More than likely if you have no pressure that's due to a suction leak (the pump can't draw any fluid), a clog or leak in the pump discharge port, or a wasted pump or stuck pressure control valve in the pump. If the fluid was very dark, a clogged filter is possible. If the car was driven for long with excessively dirty/burned fluid or clogged filter the pump could just be wasted.

That's a question for one of the techs at the dealer, not the sales guy. Like Golucky said, either 14 or 17mm.

2000-03 outback and forester

Hard to say exactly but kinda sounds like a bad center carrier bearing on the driveshaft or possibly a loose or bent heat sheild dragging on the driveshaft.

You need to readjust the TPS first. If that's out of adjustment the ECU wont set idle speed properly and will set a code for it. The idle valves on those are known for failure and can cause idle problems like what you have, but even with a new valve you still need to properly adjust the TPS first or you'll still have idle problems.

Upload your sound clip to YouTube or some image/file hosting site and copy/paste the link here.

That's not too bad for a metal pulley. I hadn't seen those before but I would do that before buying a plastic one. Might ask in the classifieds here if you want/need a spare.

Ah. Previous owner had it replaced it with a plastic one. Those are supposed to be metal. Not really cost effective to buy a new metal one vs plastic but keep an eye out If you have any u-pull-it junkyards and get a real metal one and put a new bearing in it to keep as a spare.

If the scanner doesn't turn on or stay on, You probably have a loose power terminal in the DLC. Sometimes the terminals get pushed loose or pushed out if the plug is connected crooked by accident.

Was the belt old? Loose? Is the tensioner bearing noisy when you spin it by hand? Is the AC pulley noisy if you spin it by hand? The tensioner broke, so I'm gonna go out on a limb and guess that belt hasn't been changed or checked for tension in a LONG time? Probably just needs a new damn belt and a little periodic attention from here on out. How's your other maintenance? Timing belt replaced? You're 5 years overdue by time and 20k miles overdue by mileage. That breaks because of a locked up idler pulley and you've got a 5,000 repair bill.

Ok, now as a final check to rule out a short to voltage, while checking voltage at the ECU (key on) Unplug the number 1 injector. Voltage should drop to 0. If voltage stays up there is a short to voltage in the harness. It's not easy for an injector driver circuit to burn out unless there is a short directly to supply voltage (no load, thus high current passing through the circuit) or an internal fault in one of the components in the circuit. What you don't want is to install a new ECU and have the same problem because of an issue in the harness that caused the old one to be damaged. So with the injector unplugged if 0v showing on the meter, wiggle the major parts of the wire harness all around and make sure the voltage doesn't jump up instantaneously, due to a temporary short.

In a properly operating circuit you'll see the voltage drop Only if the ECU is grounding the circuit. With key On,You should see 12v at both pins on the injector (plugged in) and you should have 12v at that injector pin on the ECU. Voltage only drops across the load when a ground is present. With no ground, voltage will remain the same all the way to the end of the circuit, or the point at which the circuit is open. So if/when the ECU grounds that injector circuit, the voltage will drop to near 0. If you have 12v reaching the ECU with the key On, start the engine and see if that voltage fluctuates with the engine running. (Presumably the ECU will be pulsing that injector ground to spray the injector) Steady voltage at this point will confirm the ECU is bad. If you have no or low voltage reaching the ECU, that will mean a break or poor connection in the wiring.