Fairtax4me

Bad diode. Replace the alt.

There is a start signal input wire to the ECU, but it just splices off of the start wire from the switch to the solenoid. It's buried in the harness in the dash and not easily accessible. The ECU does NOT NEED that input in order to start the engine. Like GD said it sounds like Something is losing voltage when the key is in the start position. Would have to check voltage at the start switch, then on each side of the main relay under the dash. A noid light will only tell you if you have a trigger if there is voltage AND ground present at the injectors when the ECU closes the ground. Test for 12 volts at the injectors when cranking. If you have no voltage look at injector power supply, ignition switch, main relay, etc. If you have voltage but no ground look at ECU power supply and if that checks out then consider swapping ECU.

How was the alt tested? Two wires that plug into the back of the alt need 12v on them for the alt to charge. Could also be poor block ground, or poor ground of the alternator case to the block.

Factory batteries almost always die in the first 2-3 years. Used to work at a dealer and we replaced batteries in cars that were fresh off the transport truck. Was totally normal to replace a battery in a 6-12 month old car. To meet demand for the new model year, early model year production vehicles tend to sit in storage lots for several months before they are released and shipped to dealers. Keys in them. Some mid year models will do the same if not allocated to a certain dealer during production or custom ordered. Then they are started for about 5 minutes and parked on a train, then moved off and parked in another storage lot for several weeks sometimes. Then started again for 5 minutes and moved onto a truck, then spend a few days on the truck, then parked in the lot at the dealer. Then started for 30 seconds and driven into the shop, then back out, then again to the detail bay, then again to the gas pump, then to its first spot in the lot, then moved to another spot, then somebody just wants to see that color car so the salesman drives it around for 45 seconds so they can look at it... On and off and on and off and on running for maybe a few minutes at a time and turned right back off. Lots of starting, and never enough run time to recharge the battery, until it's purchased. By then the damage is already done. Lead acid batteries do not react well to being stored in a partially discharged state.

Has one crank sensor, and one cam sensor.

Only one. Left side behind the plastic timing cover. Plug sticks out kinda below /in front of the oil filler tube. Normally bad cam sensor will set a code.

Either have slack somewhere in the belt, or the belt teeth are not fully seated in the cam gears.

Replace the release fork and clips. Luk kits are Ok but you have to make sure the parts are made in Europe. Have seen some labeled as Luk and end up having Chinese or Korean parts. (Valeo/PHC junk)

No check engine codes? Cam sensor gives the command for fuel injection timing IIRC.

Depends on the state, but probably No. If a CEL is pending usually that means the monitor for the Cat isn't set as "Ready" and most states that do emissions inspection will fail it simply because the monitor isn't set. Some states may allow one or two monitors to not be set, but I can't say with certainty which ones. I do know that VA allows an exemption in some counties if the cost of the repair is more than $800.

https://www.subarupartssuperstore.com/p/Subaru__Forester/Sprocket-crankshaft/49224691/13021AA091.html?partner=googlebase_adwords&kwd=&origin=pla&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI2Lv25v282AIV3oSzCh17ZgmiEAQYCSABEgKSxfD_BwE

Like GD said it needs ALL of the sensors to function properly. MAF, MAP, TPS, ECT, O2s, knock sensor, everything. The ECU does not control the coil directly on that year. It controls the igniter module and the igniter controls the coil. Igniter is mounted on the firewall above the pitch mount.

3 ohm resistor across the two wires that go to the airbag. If there are three wires, one of them is a ground and can be ignored. The other two can be jumped with the 3ohm resistor.

You can find some that are close at Napa. My local stores only carry SAE sizes, but they have ones that's pretty close for like $1.50 each.

Can't help much on a wire diagram for that one. Try posting in the Old Gen section for better help with the brumby.

It has 6 teeth and reluctor sensor.

They used to carry these at Sears https://www.summitracing.com/parts/lil-63250?seid=srese1&cm_mmc=pla-google-_-shopping-_-srese1-_-lisle&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI_vrEjqi12AIVyUoNCh0WPgN6EAQYCSABEgLcOvD_BwE Works on most small/medium size filters. If a filter is too small I stick a small block of wood in there. Most Large filters I use a huge pair of channel locks on.

NADA, Edmunds, KBB. Check all three for average value. Check Autotrader and other listing sites for asking prices of similar models/mileage. Markets may vary slightly but listing online will get exposure to a nation wide market and as GD said, that's likely to be a highly sought after vehicle.

A new battery may help with cold starting. Higher CCA rating the better for colder weather. Clean battery terminals and clean connections at the starter and ground cables as well. Fuel economy isn't related to the low fuel light. It's cold, fuel economy is going to drop. Low fuel lights on these cars are not known for consistency. Sometimes mine will come on at 1/4 tank, other times it won't until the needle is pegged below E.

If they're not leaking now, 50k + before you even need to consider looking at them. If they are leaking, keep an eye on them and when coolant loss becomes a constant problem (need to add every week or so) then think about changing them. More than likely if the TB was done and the head gaskets are not leaking they've been replaced.

Another vehicles seats worked fine in the car, seem like a pretty simple solution to me. When I was at the dealership (years ago) replacing seat heaters was a weekly event. They had two techs that all but specialized in them. Seats were removed, disassembled, new heating elements and reinstalled back in the vehicle in an hour. If it can be done on a Mercedes benz 75lb seat with 16 way adjustment, upper and lower heated, massaging, side airbags, seatbelt pretensioner, occupant sensing seat, in an hour... Pretty sure it shouldn't be that difficult to replace in a Subaru seat. They're not THAT difficult to diagnose (as proven by the dealer already), and they're not THAT difficult to replace. I think you need a new dealer, or bigger boots.

Felpro makes the graphite gasket for the early 2.2. No point paying the dealer price for that one because it's the exact same gasket that Felpro sells for $30.

Seems to me it would make sense the wires were cut when the car was rear ended. Accident damage that they should have fixed while the bumper was off. This is something they need to repair, or your insurance company needs to pay to repair.

Might try checking fuses for everything. A voltage spike can blow out fuses the same way it did the headlamps.

The stiff springs will cause more wheel lift by limiting the amount that the strut can travel down. You lose downward articulation with taller/stiffer springs. This means that the strut bottoms out sooner and then lifts the wheel off the ground. Use Stock springs in the front, stiffer stock height springs in the rear. 1" lift blocks at the very most on top of the struts if you really want the lift. Anything more than an inch will get you cv axle problems.